Clutch Push Rod Oil Seal

Fatman · 07-28-2015, 07:11 PM

Hello all

So I have a leaky Clutch push rod oil seal and I have read over the instructions on how to change it. Found here.

http://home.insightbb.com/~kpmh.010/...h-Rod-Seal.htm

I have a few questions in regard to step 3 and I’m hoping someone could help me with this.

3 - Remove the shifter levers. There should be dimples in the end of the shaft to aid in realignment when reinstalling them... if not, use a black marker. When you loosen the pinch bolts, be wary of any resistance after you feel that the torque SHOULD have been broken... if the levers are not perfectly lined up, the bolts will drag on the channel in the shaft and it will totally hose the threads. GENTLY tap the lever back and forth on the shaft until the bolt turns freely. The bolts must be completely removed to free the levers.

First question what is a “Pinch Bolt” I have asked several people who are much more mechanically inclined then myself and they have no clue.
To be honest this sounds like something you don’t want to screw up so if someone could give me some better step by step instructions for someone who can basically change oil and replace oil filter and air filter that would be great.
Other wise I will have to pay the shop $150 to change a $7.50 part.
Thanks.

**vulcanscott** · 07-28-2015, 07:31 PM

it is very easy the pinch bolts are the ones running through the levers . search tear it up fix it repeat that is JPs blog sight click on Vulcan mods then click on clutch seal replacement He has it all in order and in Pictures .hope this helps again it is under Tear It Up Fix It Repeat . It will come up on searches .

**BudMan** · 07-28-2015, 07:39 PM

The pinch bolt is the bolt going thru the shift lever that "pinches" it on the shaft.
These bolts have to be taken out, not just loosened. You can use a sharpie if needed to "remember" where to put them back on the shaft.
If you've put them back to low or high you'll just have to take them off and adjust.
This isn't difficult.

Fatman · 07-28-2015, 08:18 PM

Thanks Vulcanscott, thanks for the site. Posting it here for future reference and for others who have the same problem...

http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....-rod-seal.html

Fatman · 07-28-2015, 08:23 PM

Budman thanks. A couple of follow up questions on the pinch bolts.

After looking over the site that vulcanscott gave me, I noticed in the pictures that he is using a ratchet to remove it the "pinch bolt" do you know what size socket that is? Also what size socket for the floor boards.

One more thing you said I can use a sharpie to remember where to put them back on the shaft. Is there more then one?

Fatman · 07-28-2015, 08:31 PM

Budman
Scratch that I just went out and looked at it. But now I'm wondering why I have to remove the shiftier in the first place. It looks like I can remove all the bolts on the side cover with an L shaped allen tool.

Vulcan Bill · 07-28-2015, 08:53 PM

You have to remove the shifters and the left foot board to get the engine side cover off cause its not notched on the bottom where it goes around the shifter shaft. I don't know why not. It could be, theres no oil or gasket under that cover.
This is one of those deals that sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is. Once you do it you'll think to yourself 'that was easy".
A suggestion about replacing the seal. I've done it three times now. Use a socket as a tool to drive the seal in flush with the engine case but no deeper. It is possible to drive it competely thru the hole. You don't want that to happen. Also, the last time I degreased around the hole and after the seal was installed i smeared some silicon sealent around the seal to glue it place. That was about 40,000 miles ago and it hasn't popped out since.
The clutch push rod ends are different. One end concave, the other rounded. Notice which end is pointing into the motor when you pull it out. Lastly, inspect the push rod surface. If its rough polish it up with some fine steel wool or sandpaper.This will keep it from roughing up your new seal. Oh...and its a good idea to wear some safety glasses when removing the foot board spring.

Its easy...you can do this, man!

**BudMan** · 07-28-2015, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fatman

Budman
Scratch that I just went out and looked at it. But now I'm wondering why I have to remove the shiftier in the first place. It looks like I can remove all the bolts on the side cover with an L shaped allen tool.

Vulcan Bill is correct. You must take the shifters off. The cover goes around the shaft. There are two shift levers. Toe and heal.

cactusjack · 07-28-2015, 09:55 PM

You've been asking the wrong people. Lots of good answers here.

rolfe · 07-28-2015, 10:55 PM

*****Check the Spacer Orientation******* on the outer housing.

Also a note is when you go to re-install the bolts on the housing, the housing will appear not seated!

By tightening the bolts per torque specifications -- 61 inch pounds -- will snug up the outer housing.

Just take your time with all the help mention above you can't go wrong.

Fatman · 08-06-2015, 11:57 AM

Thanks everyone for all your help. I just have some more questions for clarification.

First the pinch bolt or bolts that holds the shift levers in place. I only see one are there more? See image attachment for what I'm looking at.

Second it is advised that I "use a sharpie if needed to "remember" where to put them back on the shaft." I'm at a lost as to what it is I'm exactly supposed to mark as it looks like the bolt I'm looking at just goes straight down.

Finally do I need to use a torque wrench to re fasten the bolts or can I just tighten them down snug?

Vulcan Bill · 08-06-2015, 02:18 PM

May I recommend you buy a shop manual? It has step by step instructions and illustrations.

hammer · 08-06-2015, 02:27 PM

Actually, the shop manual is right on the site to download isn't it.

I highly recommend you get a torque wrench. They are not that expensive and you may avoid the expense and stress of snapping a bolt head, stripping a bolt, cracking a housing, etc., etc. On my board above my bench is the 4 to 5 pages of torque values for most Nomad nuts and bolts. I use them all the time.

hammer · 08-06-2015, 02:31 PM

Top of the page,
http://vulcanbagger.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=24

Fatman · 08-06-2015, 03:37 PM

hammer, thanks for the link, unfortunitly the link must have been removed from the thread since all it says is

For anyone interested, the Service Manual for the VN1600 Nomad in PDF form is available at:

Below, it is available in chapters:

To view any of manuals listed, just click. To download, right click and choose, "Save Target As".
__________________

And the only link is to the posters personal website.

07-28-2015, 07:11 PM	#1
Fatman Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 17	Clutch Push Rod Oil Seal Hello all So I have a leaky Clutch push rod oil seal and I have read over the instructions on how to change it. Found here. http://home.insightbb.com/~kpmh.010/...h-Rod-Seal.htm I have a few questions in regard to step 3 and I’m hoping someone could help me with this. 3 - Remove the shifter levers. There should be dimples in the end of the shaft to aid in realignment when reinstalling them... if not, use a black marker. When you loosen the pinch bolts, be wary of any resistance after you feel that the torque SHOULD have been broken... if the levers are not perfectly lined up, the bolts will drag on the channel in the shaft and it will totally hose the threads. GENTLY tap the lever back and forth on the shaft until the bolt turns freely. The bolts must be completely removed to free the levers. First question what is a “Pinch Bolt” I have asked several people who are much more mechanically inclined then myself and they have no clue. To be honest this sounds like something you don’t want to screw up so if someone could give me some better step by step instructions for someone who can basically change oil and replace oil filter and air filter that would be great. Other wise I will have to pay the shop $150 to change a $7.50 part. Thanks. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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07-28-2015, 07:39 PM	#3
BudMan Join Date: May 2009 Location: Greenwood, Ark. Posts: 4,736	The pinch bolt is the bolt going thru the shift lever that "pinches" it on the shaft. These bolts have to be taken out, not just loosened. You can use a sharpie if needed to "remember" where to put them back on the shaft. If you've put them back to low or high you'll just have to take them off and adjust. This isn't difficult. __________________ Dave Jesse 2012 1700 Gray/Black Voyager 2006 1600 Nomad Green/Silver Sold VBA #1108 2010- Eureka Springs - Antlers - 2011- Maggie Valley - Antlers 2012- Margaritaville Ride - Van Buren - Antlers - 2013- Estes Park - Antlers 2014- Mountain View - Antlers - 2015- Eureka Springs - Antlers 2016- Salem - Antlers - 2017- Eureka Springs - Lake George - Antlers - 2018- Custer - Antlers
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07-28-2015, 08:23 PM	#5
Fatman Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 17	Budman thanks. A couple of follow up questions on the pinch bolts. After looking over the site that vulcanscott gave me, I noticed in the pictures that he is using a ratchet to remove it the "pinch bolt" do you know what size socket that is? Also what size socket for the floor boards. One more thing you said I can use a sharpie to remember where to put them back on the shaft. Is there more then one? Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-28-2015, 08:53 PM	#7
Vulcan Bill Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Mesa Az Posts: 1,400	You have to remove the shifters and the left foot board to get the engine side cover off cause its not notched on the bottom where it goes around the shifter shaft. I don't know why not. It could be, theres no oil or gasket under that cover. This is one of those deals that sounds a lot more complicated than it actually is. Once you do it you'll think to yourself 'that was easy". A suggestion about replacing the seal. I've done it three times now. Use a socket as a tool to drive the seal in flush with the engine case but no deeper. It is possible to drive it competely thru the hole. You don't want that to happen. Also, the last time I degreased around the hole and after the seal was installed i smeared some silicon sealent around the seal to glue it place. That was about 40,000 miles ago and it hasn't popped out since. The clutch push rod ends are different. One end concave, the other rounded. Notice which end is pointing into the motor when you pull it out. Lastly, inspect the push rod surface. If its rough polish it up with some fine steel wool or sandpaper.This will keep it from roughing up your new seal. Oh...and its a good idea to wear some safety glasses when removing the foot board spring. Its easy...you can do this, man! __________________ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- '05 1600CL. Originator 18" Harley wheel mod, Dobeck TFI, True Duals, Mutazu hardbags, Flanders handlebars n' a bunch more. *Sometimes I miss the good ol' days but most times I'm just glad I survived them* Last edited by Vulcan Bill; 08-07-2015 at 11:37 AM.
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07-28-2015, 09:55 PM	#9
cactusjack Mega-Contributor Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Where it doesn't snow...ever! Posts: 21,926	You've been asking the wrong people. Lots of good answers here. __________________ Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08\|Custer '09\|Cortez '10\|Crescent City '11\|Kanab '12\|Antlers '12\|Estes Park '13\|Antlers '13\|Orofino '14\|The Dalles '17
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07-28-2015, 07:31 PM	#2
vulcanscott Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: chandler okla Posts: 854	it is very easy the pinch bolts are the ones running through the levers . search tear it up fix it repeat that is JPs blog sight click on Vulcan mods then click on clutch seal replacement He has it all in order and in Pictures .hope this helps again it is under Tear It Up Fix It Repeat . It will come up on searches .
	0

07-28-2015, 08:18 PM	#4
Fatman Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 17	Thanks Vulcanscott, thanks for the site. Posting it here for future reference and for others who have the same problem... http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....-rod-seal.html
	0

07-28-2015, 08:31 PM	#6
Fatman Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 17	Budman Scratch that I just went out and looked at it. But now I'm wondering why I have to remove the shiftier in the first place. It looks like I can remove all the bolts on the side cover with an L shaped allen tool.
	0

07-28-2015, 10:55 PM	#10
rolfe Advanced Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Lake Travis, Texas Posts: 518	***Check the Spacer Orientation***** on the outer housing. Also a note is when you go to re-install the bolts on the housing, the housing will appear not seated! By tightening the bolts per torque specifications -- 61 inch pounds -- will snug up the outer housing. Just take your time with all the help mention above you can't go wrong. Last edited by rolfe; 07-28-2015 at 11:02 PM.
	0

08-06-2015, 02:18 PM	#12
Vulcan Bill Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Mesa Az Posts: 1,400	May I recommend you buy a shop manual? It has step by step instructions and illustrations. __________________ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- '05 1600CL. Originator 18" Harley wheel mod, Dobeck TFI, True Duals, Mutazu hardbags, Flanders handlebars n' a bunch more. *Sometimes I miss the good ol' days but most times I'm just glad I survived them*
	0

08-06-2015, 02:27 PM	#13
hammer Sr. Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 1,329	Actually, the shop manual is right on the site to download isn't it. I highly recommend you get a torque wrench. They are not that expensive and you may avoid the expense and stress of snapping a bolt head, stripping a bolt, cracking a housing, etc., etc. On my board above my bench is the 4 to 5 pages of torque values for most Nomad nuts and bolts. I use them all the time. __________________ Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad
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08-06-2015, 02:31 PM	#14
hammer Sr. Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 1,329	Top of the page, http://vulcanbagger.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=24 __________________ Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad
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08-06-2015, 03:37 PM	#15
Fatman Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 17	hammer, thanks for the link, unfortunitly the link must have been removed from the thread since all it says is For anyone interested, the Service Manual for the VN1600 Nomad in PDF form is available at: Below, it is available in chapters: To view any of manuals listed, just click. To download, right click and choose, "Save Target As". __________________ And the only link is to the posters personal website.
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