Rear signal LED bulbs ?

[Ken Vega]

I have been trying to use LED 1156 bulbs in the rear signals. They wont even turn on at all. I went and boight error free LED bulbs that even have small resistors supposedly built in. Still nothing. Do you think it is the flasher or relay itself that requires more load in order to function? I was going to buy 25 watt load resistors and wire them in to see if that works and eliminates hyperflash too. Thoughts anybody?

[recumbentbob]

My thoughts are if the standard bulbs work why replace them

[Top Cat]

Originally Posted by recumbentbob

My thoughts are if the standard bulbs work why replace them

Because LEDs are much brighter would be my though

[recumbentbob]

Sounds like more trouble than it's worth.

[kpmhspirit]

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

I have been trying to use LED 1156 bulbs in the rear signals. They wont even turn on at all. I went and boight error free LED bulbs that even have small resistors supposedly built in. Still nothing. Do you think it is the flasher or relay itself that requires more load in order to function? I was going to buy 25 watt load resistors and wire them in to see if that works and eliminates hyperflash too. Thoughts anybody?

The rear turns gave me some issues too. I wired in Hyperlites to get some more lights in the back

http://www.hyperlites.com/3way.html

The running/brake lights worked fine after I wired them in but the turns didn't. Turns out that Kaw wired the left turn signal backwards. The black/yellow wire is the positive. Once I figured that out, everything worked fine.

[Lumberjack]

Are you referring to CAN bus LED's? CAN bus won't work IMO as they aren't designed for this application.
You need Load Equalizers or a LED flasher relay to get them to flash properly.
I have also have seen some people saying the back are reverse polarity (may or may not be true) so it they aren't coming on at all that is probably why. Try reversing polarity. Also try only one LED bulb in per side and try it as the normal bulb will hopefully create enough load to test and it will flash properly.

"Finally figured it out with the help of hyperlites techs. It's kinda obvious but as I said, I miss the obvious sometimes. I connected the HL turn signal wires to the stock GROUND (black/yellow) and damned if they didn't work. So, everywhere else on the bike, the black/yellow is ground but on the rear turn signals it's the positive wire. WTF is up with that." http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ht=turn+signal

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

I have been trying to use LED 1156 bulbs in the rear signals. They wont even turn on at all. I went and boight error free LED bulbs that even have small resistors supposedly built in. Still nothing. Do you think it is the flasher or relay itself that requires more load in order to function? I was going to buy 25 watt load resistors and wire them in to see if that works and eliminates hyperflash too. Thoughts anybody?

[kpmhspirit]

"Finally figured it out with the help of hyperlites techs. It's kinda obvious but as I said, I miss the obvious sometimes. I connected the HL turn signal wires to the stock GROUND (black/yellow) and damned if they didn't work. So, everywhere else on the bike, the black/yellow is ground but on the rear turn signals it's the positive wire. WTF is up with that." http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ht=turn+signal

Yup. Forgot I posted that....

[Dieago62]

Ive been thinking of using these and a led license plate with them and doing away all together with the plastic chrome turn/plate assy on my Vaquero. seen a few that did it and man it makes the rear look clean
http://www.customdynamics.com/plasma_rod_led_lights.htm

And use a controller for doing this


Using this universal controller on bottom of this page
http://www.customdynamics.com/tailconversion_kit.htm

[VulcanE]

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

I have been trying to use LED 1156 bulbs in the rear signals. They wont even turn on at all. I went and boight error free LED bulbs that even have small resistors supposedly built in. Still nothing. Do you think it is the flasher or relay itself that requires more load in order to function? I was going to buy 25 watt load resistors and wire them in to see if that works and eliminates hyperflash too. Thoughts anybody?

Ken, the LEDs should work weather or not you have load resistors (might or might not hyperflash) . Unlike incandescent bulbs, LED bulbs will only work with the power going in one direction. If you've put the bulb in and get nothing, then the direction of current (polarity) is wrong. You can check the bulbs by rigging a set of jumper wires on the battery in your car, have a lead off the positive post, and one off the negative post. Hold the negative lead on the outside of the bulb base, and take the positive lead and touch it to the center of the bottom of the bulb base, it should light up. If it does, then like already been mentioned, your sockets are wired backwards. If it don't light up, switch positions of the wires on the bulb, If it still doesn't light up, then something is either wrong with the bulb, or you are not meeting the bulb's power requirements.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by VulcanE

Ken, the LEDs should work weather or not you have load resistors (might or might not hyperflash) . Unlike incandescent bulbs, LED bulbs will only work with the power going in one direction. If you've put the bulb in and get nothing, then the direction of current (polarity) is wrong. You can check the bulbs by rigging a set of jumper wires on the battery in your car, have a lead off the positive post, and one off the negative post. Hold the negative lead on the outside of the bulb base, and take the positive lead and touch it to the center of the bottom of the bulb base, it should light up. If it does, then like already been mentioned, your sockets are wired backwards. If it don't light up, switch positions of the wires on the bulb, If it still doesn't light up, then something is either wrong with the bulb, or you are not meeting the bulb's power requirements.

I agree with this. It really sounds like polarity is the issue. I wouldn't think power would be a problem. Incandescent bulbs draw more amps than any replacement LEDs are likely to pull and the voltage should not be a problem.

[Ken Vega]

I am going to cut and reverse the wires in the housing. If it works I can run load equalizers in line behind the fender and mount to the support bracket. I am 99% sure its polarity. The bulbs definitely work when tested with the battery pack that says try me on the package.

it is just strange that the fronts were wired normal. Black with yellow stripe is ground.

[Dieago62]

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

I am going to cut and reverse the wires in the housing. If it works I can run load equalizers in line behind the fender and mount to the support bracket. I am 99% sure its polarity. The bulbs definitely work when tested with the battery pack that says try me on the package.

it is just strange that the fronts were wired normal. Black with yellow stripe is ground.

So just take a bulb in one hand and a battery charger in other and check with polarity both ways just take a second to test your theory right?

[Dieago62]

Originally Posted by Dieago62

So just take a bulb in one hand and a battery charger in other and check with polarity both ways just take a second to test your theory right?

But just thinking a led is light emitting diode right and isnt a diode a one way voltage gate so to speak?

[Ken Vega]

Originally Posted by Dieago62

But just thinking a led is light emitting diode right and isnt a diode a one way voltage gate so to speak?

It is. That is why it is so dependent on polarity. 1156 usually the button is the positive and the wall of the base is negative. When I tested using a 9 volt battery that is what I touched and got the bulb to light up. When I multimeter the socket on the Vaq. I get a reading from the socket like the button is positive and the wall is negative , so it should light the led bulb. That is what has my noodle cooked. I am at the point that I think I am gonna take my bike to Chrome Glow and have them remove the signal assembly and get a nice curved plate holder with integrated signal lights. Bonus is it will clean up the rear of the bike.

[Ken Vega]

Ok got them working. It was reverse polarized. The black wire with the yellow stripe was positive and it was supplying power to the socket wall. I cut, swapped and now all is well. The incandecents work too since they are not polar dependent. I think I like the faster flash rate. I have the load equalizers but was looking for a suitable place to mount them for the rear if I change my mind and want to go back to a normal flashrate