Debaffle Question

[whozyer]

I have added TFI, chucksters dual plate, and I am amazed at the difference. I done them both at the same time so I will assume the difference came from the TFI for the most part. I read on here somewhere that if you take it in you have to also let it out (mac said that I think). I am wondering if the debaf would do some of this or would it just be minimal? Also I done this very same thing on a 1100 honda ace and it sounded pretty much like shit (tinny) and never could get the popping on decel out. This forum is invaluable and I would like to know your thoughts. Maybe Vance and hines or Cobra is in order to reach another level. Again I still am amazed at the difference i have now,seems pretty sweet to me.

[Yellow Jacket]

When I did the debaffle I got a deeper tone with a small increase in the volume of the exhaust. I did not notice any change in performance or mileage.

With the TFI and the intake mod you would probably gain some additional increase by added V&H or Cobra pipes. I don't know how much.

The debaffle is pretty cheap. You could try that first and then decide if you want to spring for the big bucks for the aftermarket exhaust.

[blowndodge]

Do as Bob has outlined. If you think you can get more performance maybe you try aftermarket pipes. Sense aftermarket pipes cost upwards of 500 dollars I doubt you get that much performance in return for your money

[mobandy78]

The debaffle doesn't give any more performance gains. I did it for a while, then just upgraded to Cobra exhaust. You definitely will get your money's worth with the added pipes.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

The debaffle is an inexpensive way to give your bike a deeper sound. Didn't really do anything to improve performance for mr.

[recumbentbob]

I have the same set up chuckster dual plate intake and a fuel module.

I debaffled the pipes then welded them back in the next day.
I like the quiet better.

I do have valkyrie tips on the pipes and they changed the sound for the better.

[whozyer]

Ok I think I found what I was looking for. Thanks for the info. I think I'll set right where I am.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by blowndodge

Sense aftermarket pipes cost upwards of 500 dollars I doubt you get that much performance in return for your money

I sense you meant since.

[macmac]

I did V&H Baggers twice now, and I don't have money to throw around. twice becasue my 01 was stolen on day 360 out of my first almost year of owning a Nomad.

The 2nd set were because i wanted the 1600 to be as powerful as the 01 had been.

With one or another after market exhaust you are not going to realized the full potential of apx 10% more power and more MPG's.

And yeah it is me who said you can't breath out what you can't breath in.

If I placed a tight leather strap on your chest and told you to run 100 yard dash you would be slower than if you had no belt. You simply can not breath well.

And with the Chuckster filter set up you gain freeer flowing air, a bit more and with the TFI for the first time you are closer to the correct fuel mix.

I don't KNOW the exact mix ratio, and so far no one who ran a dyno run ever said.

I am 100% sure these engine are waaaaaaaaaaay to lean from the factory.

I have rebuilt a few thousand engines of many kinds VW, MGB, BMW, Volvo Saab, and etc etc many more and several big honkin American V-8's too.

Many of these were carbed. Some were injected, and some got turbos too so fuel mix had to be modified.

ALL of these engines that got more fuel than stock got worse MPG's every single last one.

NOW there is one engine that I am very well aware of that does get better MPG's and it is the Nomad. My 01 got about 32/34 dead stock, the 06 got about 35/37 dead stock.

The 01 set up with a spector right side only, V&H baggers, and a TFI instantly went from the low 30's to the low 40's The 06 did the same thing....

The 06 went to 46/48 before i are a few MPG's with a car tire, but it gets 42/46 depending on weather, if there are engine crash bar covers (Desert Dawgs which evidently streamline the bubble)

And the 10% power is enough to still plant a grin on anyone's face the first time the engine is running right.

I am totally against debaffeling stock pipes, but i won't stop any one.

The way I look at that is one day the Govt will attempt to spoil my fun and won't give my a sticker. So with my stock set I can go get the sticker and for a little time and 2 gaskets i can go right back.

It's cheating, but that is exactly what the Govt and the EPA have done to us and I think what's fair is fair.

I am also willing to bet money that a proper fuel mix burns cleaner than a overly lean mix can. The fact the engine can breath better insures it will burn fuel better, and therefore be a cleaner burn, running the proper fuel 87 for 9:1 compression, and going the better distance with more power for it.

Pure gas would enhance this better too. There is not one bennie in burning ethenol unless you are a stock holder. With the 10% Eth we loose 10% Power and go 10% less per gallon than if it were rel gas and we spend more than 10% per gallon for it.

It is a win win for the stock hold and -10/-10 loss for us.

LOUD: Yup no after market pipes will be as quiet at stock..... No race car is as quiet as a same stock car either. The V&H system can be modified to have more glass packing, can have roofing flashing wrap, plumbers tape wrap, wood stove rope, and etc, things that don't burn to tame them. The more stuff you add the quieter it is and almost no matter what you add there will still be more noise than stock and better breathing than stock.

I also find noise can be controlled by how much you twist or don't twist your wrist, to include decell cackel.

I use the decel cackel too to wake up the dead, err I mean wake up texters.... Roll that throttle closed in decell and i get cackel.

Once noises were legal and there was no such thing as being PC. making a little noise on a bike was expected. Back in those days bikes were sometime plain ruckus.

We had kick starters, and real loud race worthy short pipes, and there were no heavy cruisers. Most bikes leaked oil, or on purpose dripped oil on the drive chain. We got oiled boots whether or not we liked it.

Not everything was so neat, clean and quiet as it is now. of course back then to spend a week on the road meant it was ok to stop and pull the bike off the road and camp laying in the dirt right next to it.

There were somewhat less rules.... Or maybe it was no one really cared.

[blowndodge]

Originally Posted by Dave

I sense you meant since.

lmao

[macmac]

geeze........

[jendesigner]

macmac thanks for your post. So from what I am reading, and if I understand it correctly, if I rejet my bike (2000 carbed version) I actually may increase my MPG due to the fact it is running better, more efficient? I was hesitant to do this being that the jets would be larger and then using more fuel. But if I can get better MPG with buying after market pipes that may be in my future. (I would also do the air intake to get the full benefit).

[Loafer]

Originally Posted by macmac

geeze........

+1

[Top Cat]

Drawing stick pictures of yourself Brad

[macmac]

Originally Posted by jendesigner

macmac thanks for your post. So from what I am reading, and if I understand it correctly, if I rejet my bike (2000 carbed version) I actually may increase my MPG due to the fact it is running better, more efficient? I was hesitant to do this being that the jets would be larger and then using more fuel. But if I can get better MPG with buying after market pipes that may be in my future. (I would also do the air intake to get the full benefit).

I am not sure about any of this as i said for carbed Nomads.I have not worked on one carbed Nomad yet.

I am sure you can get more power by getting better air flow in and out and can get a K&N air filter and a aftermarket exhaust so air flow can be better in and out.

Jets need to match what air flow you do have, what ever that is so think long and hard before you re-jet and buy wrong jets.

The best way to re-jet is find out who else did it and used what parts and copy that if it went well.

The other way is to buy parts and see if they work right or not and if not buy more parts. You can buy a lot of wrong jets by just guessing.

There are a few tricks you can do too.

Trick one is increase the float bowl level making engine vacuum able to pluck fuel from the carb easier.

Trick 2 is to raise the main metering needle in steps and if there is no steps with shims.This brings the tapper of the metering needle up so it is narrower in the main jet. The result is more fuel.

I have no idea if carbed Nomads are so overly lean as injected Nomads are.

When re-jetting you must know what the jets numbers are and use good judgement ordering any new sizes. Do not drill out your jets by yourself.

I have seen that done and tried myself and so far no one I know has succeeded it is very critical and not commonly a success in a small shop.

The first test is to do the tricks and if you still feel there is a lag you will need new jets. I have no idea who has done this here or anywhere else, so I am of no real use other than may be able to guide a little more if I know what intake you have or will have and which exhaust.