"tight" u-joints

Random samples of the 1500 were plagued with this issue, including my 2004, and my buddy's 2001 model, and I've read messages from others whose driveshafts were completely replaced under warranty just because of a tight or stiff u-joint. Kawasaki, for some reason, does not advertise the fact that the u-joint can be replaced seperately from the driveshaft assembly, though it can, and costs $250 less as well.

Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone with a 1600 who has lubed their driveshaft noticed this issue? The following is re-posted from my Nomad blog over at Motorcycle USA:

On the bright side, I replaced my u-joint on the Nomad's original drive shaft. Mine went the same as Mac's did: stiff in one direction, leading us to think it hadn't been greased correctly at assembly; but what I found when I stripped it was not burnt needles at all, and the grease was fine.

There was a slight machining burr on one of the bores, and that caused the cup to be installed too deep when they pressed the circlip into place. This made the spider bind against the bearing cups on two ends. I chased the burr off, put the new joint in, and the action is now perfect.

Kawasaki does not sell this u-joint as a seperate part for Vulcans. They want you to buy a whole new shaft assembly for $300. Phoooey on that! A new u-joint from a Prairie quad is only $25 from Team Motorsports, and it fits perfect. Mac's Nomad got a whole new shaft, as it was under warranty. I wonder how many people got sold new $300 (plus labor) driveshafts because some stupid guy didn't de-burr the yoke properly?

The old u-joint was still good, so I saved it. The new one has a zerk, so it can be lubed by just pushing the rubber boot loose on the swingarm.


If you want to read the complete procedure to change the joint look here, on page 6, starting about half way down the page (day 1268.)

CLICKhere

If you know what a driveshaft looks like, you'll spot all the photos.

[ponch]

For some reason when I post HTML, it does not work...Might be my browser/platform, but here is the raw link, even if it cuts it up:
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/.... 2-22-07-a.html

Random samples of the 1500 were plagued with this issue, including my 2004, and my buddy's 2001 model, and I've read messages from others whose driveshafts were completely replaced under warranty just because of a tight or stiff u-joint. Kawasaki, for some reason, does not advertise the fact that the u-joint can be replaced seperately from the driveshaft assembly, though it can, and costs $250 less as well.

Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone with a 1600 who has lubed their driveshaft noticed this issue? The following is re-posted from my Nomad blog over at Motorcycle USA:

On the bright side, I replaced my u-joint on the Nomad's original drive shaft. Mine went the same as Mac's did: stiff in one direction, leading us to think it hadn't been greased correctly at assembly; but what I found when I stripped it was not burnt needles at all, and the grease was fine.

There was a slight machining burr on one of the bores, and that caused the cup to be installed too deep when they pressed the circlip into place. This made the spider bind against the bearing cups on two ends. I chased the burr off, put the new joint in, and the action is now perfect.

Kawasaki does not sell this u-joint as a seperate part for Vulcans. They want you to buy a whole new shaft assembly for $300. Phoooey on that! A new u-joint from a Prairie quad is only $25 from Team Motorsports, and it fits perfect. Mac's Nomad got a whole new shaft, as it was under warranty. I wonder how many people got sold new $300 (plus labor) driveshafts because some stupid guy didn't de-burr the yoke properly?

The old u-joint was still good, so I saved it. The new one has a zerk, so it can be lubed by just pushing the rubber boot loose on the swingarm.


If you want to read the complete procedure to change the joint look here, on page 6, starting about half way down the page (day 1268.)

CLICKhere

If you know what a driveshaft looks like, you'll spot all the photos.

LubeShaft

How's that? ;)

<edit: Crap, still won't work.

I always have this issue linking to the Kawi forums.>

[ponch]

http://tinyurl.com/273zdk

LubeShaft

How's that? ;)

<edit: Crap, still won't work.

I always have this issue linking to the Kawi forums.>

There ya go. I think their url's are just too long to work right somehow.

[Yellow Jacket]

Thanks guys! Great description and pictures of the procedure.

You can't really see the offending burr in the photos, but once you see the circlips, know that it will be on the yoke surface under the circlip. If it exists that is. If your u-joint isn't stiff, then you're OK.

[ringadingh]

Thats good to know that the replacement U joint has a grease fitting that you can get to without all of the dissassembly. I greased mine last season and it was still in good shape. Its not a bad job but still takes good couple hours to do.

[nomaddriver03]

I just ordered a u-joint from MAW. ( Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse ) They list the part as T578236 at $26.95 plus about $8 shipping to NY. Also, I found the swingarm bushing and seals at CheapCycleParts.com. The seal is Part Number 92049-1181 at $3.56 each, and the bushing (collar) at $11.67. This is the bushing mentioned in Gadgets site that needs to be machined when doing the zerk fitting mod. I just wanted to update the places and numbers if anyone has the swingarm lubrication job to do in the future. All the parts are able to be ordered without having to go through a dealer.

[ringadingh]

Thanks for the info. Id hate to have to pay someone to do that job.

[ells]

Originally Posted by nomaddriver03

I just ordered a u-joint from MAW. ( Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse ) They list the part as T578236 at $26.95 plus about $8 shipping to NY. Also, I found the swingarm bushing and seals at CheapCycleParts.com. The seal is Part Number 92049-1181 at $3.56 each, and the bushing (collar) at $11.67. This is the bushing mentioned in Gadgets site that needs to be machined when doing the zerk fitting mod. I just wanted to update the places and numbers if anyone has the swingarm lubrication job to do in the future. All the parts are able to be ordered without having to go through a dealer.

Would be nice if good tidbits of information like this would get set aside somewhere, like on the main page under "tips"

[macmac]

Bushings?? IS THAT WHAT THE SPACERS ARE CALLED IN BOOKS? hit caps in error not a challange in any way... I am a poor typoist...

I searched long and hard for seals by cross referance last year in April or May, and came up with Ma kawi had these seals made up special, just for them, and no one else in any industry uses them, or did then.

This would cause me to believe that this CheapCycleParts, just bought a mess of seals from Ma Kawi.

I found it odd that I had to order them from a dealer that has been around a good long time, pre vulcan no less! They had none in stock, and I took a look at the stock fische which showed they had never ever in all time ever bought any, which means they had never ever done any swing arm service, not ever, not once!

I asked the service manager a few general questions about the service for the swing arm and he didn't know the right answers, not that he didn't create fictious parts and a bunch of pure bull to sound almost intelligent. Maybe if i didn't have my bike a part, and maybe if I pushed papers for a living I might have bought that line, but I am not and so I didn't.

I do know one thing .... Thar ain't no GREASE in there!

[ells]

Originally Posted by macmac

I do know one thing .... Thar ain't no GREASE in there!

Is it possible the MaKaw is using some very light lubricant like a silicone grease or some such that just doesn't show up. Does any one know if these "greaseless" points, swing arm, driveshaft spline and steering column and dealer assembly items or all come assembled from the factory?

[macmac]

Yes I used to be PDI as a wee lad for Honda. I 'KNOW' the swingarm and rear wheel and everything else in that area is complete at the factory. It is the ft end that isn't..

So this rear end work is completed by the factory. Of this I am 110% sure.

I owned a 01 and own a 06 and did this service of the swingarm to both bikes. The 01 had a bad U joint at something like 22,000 miles. In my like I have installed at least 1,000 u joints in any kinds of cars you can dream up and a few kinds of cars you ain't neva' even heard of..

20,000 miles for a u joint protected from road grime ain't squat! There was and is a problem where one plane in the joint doesn't get grease..

Not every bike has this problem, but to not KNOW is like playing with handgrenades.

The grease in the swingarm bearings isn't nearly enough, and it is a light semi white grease of which base i can't say since I have no lab.

You can smear what little there is on your fingers. There isn't nearly enough for a film coating to prevent the 3 spacers from rusting. My center spacer was rusted and is pitted.. Fortunately this is not bearing surface, and the pitting means nothing, it just ticked me off since had I known I could have prevented any rusting, even a mild surface rust, mostly dust.

So far I have never seen a thread where anyone said my swing arm is drowing in grease... not before they installed more grease one way or another.

You can bank on the swing arm bearing are starved for grease safely.

As to the drive shaft, well that part is better, and there is a prayer that these splines, and the like OTHER than the U joint have the grease they need.

Mine did, but I read that tohers don't.

Anytime you have the rear wheel off for a new tire is the best time to go that little bit more. It is just a few more nuts and bolts.

I have not yet done by sterring head waiting on a ft tire, but I bet I know what I will find.. No Grease.. No one else finds any so I am sure I won't too...

[coacha]

Thanks guys for the heads up. I have never done any of this type of work but I think I'm going to be starting to do most of my own work. I have the shop manual here and have read through it some. If I take my time, I should be ok.