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Old 07-31-2014, 04:07 PM   #1
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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urgent need swingarm needle bearing part #

like the title says, the left one was dead and stuck to the frame. crappy job to do, no diagrams for the bearings and bushings (sleeves) , i need one short sleeve as well will post picutres



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Last edited by sshorenomad; 07-31-2014 at 05:57 PM.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:32 PM   #2
dshelly   dshelly is offline
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Here you go

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...2046-1202.html
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:35 PM   #3
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I'm going to climb on my soapbox and point out to those who believe servicing such components is OVER-MAINTENANCE, that this is very real and Kaw does not use adequate lubrication in some areas. This is neglect at its best. Not picking on the OP, just making a point.

I doubt any dealer stocks these, so your best bet is one of the online parts houses.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:47 PM   #4
dshelly   dshelly is offline
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Just curious sshorenomad, how many miles on this bike and have you ever had the swingarm off before this ???
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:51 PM   #5
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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found the parts, there under the battery spread sheet , dam stupid place to put this,

anyway the bike has 96000 km / 60 000 mile, its a 2000, just bought the bike this spring, was changing the tire and decided to service those and the driveshaft,

order the parts from my steelership, looks like I`m with no bikes for 3 working days
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:52 PM   #6
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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By the way, the sleeve for the bearing is stuck there,

any ideas, look like Im going to rent an acetylene torch tomorrow !!!!

i need a beer !!!
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:53 PM   #7
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjack View Post
I'm going to climb on my soapbox and point out to those who believe servicing such components is OVER-MAINTENANCE, that this is very real and Kaw does not use adequate lubrication in some areas. This is neglect at its best. Not picking on the OP, just making a point.

I doubt any dealer stocks these, so your best bet is one of the online parts houses.
this is very true
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:43 PM   #8
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:48 PM   #9
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Might want to try a pilot bearing puller? Extra large?

Come at it from the other side with a drift punch gently after a overnight soak in PB blaster.

It's a little hard to tell what surfaces are exposed. Do you have a picture of it cleaned up?

A blue wrench might cause more problems than solutions, unless you just want to cut the frame in half.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:41 PM   #10
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdslim View Post
Might want to try a pilot bearing puller? Extra large?

Come at it from the other side with a drift punch gently after a overnight soak in PB blaster.

It's a little hard to tell what surfaces are exposed. Do you have a picture of it cleaned up?

A blue wrench might cause more problems than solutions, unless you just want to cut the frame in half.
there not much lip to punch on it, thats the problem , i did a spot weld on it to get more surface but the bearing was not strong enough,

dont have a puller , its so stuck i dont think it would of worked
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:01 PM   #11
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Sometimes you can shrink a bearing race by stick welding up the center causing the metal to shrink around the weld.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:12 PM   #12
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdslim View Post
Sometimes you can shrink a bearing race by stick welding up the center causing the metal to shrink around the weld.
did that on the fork race and it worked beautiful, but that needle bearing is so thin,
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:22 PM   #13
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If it were me I would split that bearing holder with a very small and very sharp chisel, taking great care to not cut the casting a bit, or mark the casting a bit. There is the other side to, or is that side ok? Then you need the 2 seals and at least 2 of 3 spacers. 2 spacers are the inner bearing race, and the one you showed is gauled. I can't tell if it can be saved or not. The swing arm tube should be greased, the 3 spacers are greased on every surface they have I mean all of them inside outside and the ends. The seals will want grease in their wells too. And the long bolt will want grease everywhere except the the hex.

Another chisel would be a gun engraver the old fashion kind you drive with a hammer used incorrectly as a chisel but is smooth on it's back side. You just want to cut and crack the bad piece left and not marr the casting.....
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:27 AM   #14
sshorenomad   sshorenomad is offline
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thanks Mac,


the other side is fine, all the spacers are removed,

I started chiseling, but its a pain ,

thanks for the advise

Ive ordered the 2 seals, 1 spacer and two bearings,
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:37 PM   #15
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Once you have made a cut, start to slide small screw drivers one at a time to one side of the cut, and bend the cage holder. Use sea foam deep creep too and WD-40 to clean up, also emery on the casting BY HAND just to clean up. In this tube and on everything i said to grease i use water proof marine grade wheel bearing / chassi grease, and not moly coat. i assume you are going to check the drive shaft the U joint and clean and moly coat all the splines. Moly coat to me is just CH joint grease and it comes in packets enough to do one cv joint.

And what it the real rusty bolt to the right for? I haven't been to the barn to see my 06 yet. Get deep creep on that 2 times a day and smack it easy with a 16 ounce hammer several times after spraying. Do not distort the head.

Do you have AIR?
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