Ivan's ECU flash - Updated

[smokier]

Originally Posted by Scorpion6

The single best thing you can do to that Victory is add Lloydz timing wheel. It will wake that thing up immensely. A $140 upgrade that makes a $2000 difference.

Thank you. Have been reading about the various Lloydz after market goodies. The timing wheel being at the front of that list...

Ride safe,
Smokier

[recumbentbob]

Originally Posted by smokier

Greetings FloatMe and congratulations on the 2017 Voyager!

The bride just bought a Victory Cross Roads, less than a 100 miles before putting them to bed for the winter. She feels your pain!

Ride safe,
Smokier

Congratulations on the Victory......

[WiscoVulcanCowboy]

Well, first off HELLO! I’m new here. I just bought a brand spanking new 2018 Vaquero a few weeks ago. Black, with the green stripes. Gorgeous bike. I live in Wisconsin though, and I have a few more months until I can actually ride it 😭 Great Sadness....

Anyways, since I have some time to kill, I’ve been slowly adding my own touches to the bike, and I’ve got my eyes set on Cobra TriFlow exhaust, K&N filter, and Ivan’s tune.

First question- Should I break in (600mi) the bike first, THEN send the ECU off to Ivan? Or am I safe to send it to him now and start off the bike tuned, right off the bat? Probably a stupid question but bare with me, there’s going to be more from me eventually lol

Second question-Anyone have the same hardware setup I’m doing with the tune? Any negative feedback?

Thanks to all. Bring on spring!!!

[recumbentbob]

I would do the mods now.

[terryd]

Originally Posted by WiscoVulcanCowboy

Well, first off HELLO! I’m new here. I just bought a brand spanking new 2018 Vaquero a few weeks ago. Black, with the green stripes. Gorgeous bike. I live in Wisconsin though, and I have a few more months until I can actually ride it 😭 Great Sadness....

Anyways, since I have some time to kill, I’ve been slowly adding my own touches to the bike, and I’ve got my eyes set on Cobra TriFlow exhaust, K&N filter, and Ivan’s tune.

First question- Should I break in (600mi) the bike first, THEN send the ECU off to Ivan? Or am I safe to send it to him now and start off the bike tuned, right off the bat? Probably a stupid question but bare with me, there’s going to be more from me eventually lol

Second question-Anyone have the same hardware setup I’m doing with the tune? Any negative feedback?

Thanks to all. Bring on spring!!!

I can't think of a reason not to do it now except for riding the bike without first so you can compare the difference, because it is dramatic.

[JD Hog]

Originally Posted by terryd

I can't think of a reason not to do it now except for riding the bike without first so you can compare the difference, because it is dramatic.

[smokier]

Originally Posted by WiscoVulcanCowboy

Well, first off HELLO! I’m new here. I just bought a brand spanking new 2018 Vaquero a few weeks ago. Black, with the green stripes. Gorgeous bike. I live in Wisconsin though, and I have a few more months until I can actually ride it 😭 Great Sadness....

Anyways, since I have some time to kill, I’ve been slowly adding my own touches to the bike, and I’ve got my eyes set on Cobra TriFlow exhaust, K&N filter, and Ivan’s tune.

First question- Should I break in (600mi) the bike first, THEN send the ECU off to Ivan? Or am I safe to send it to him now and start off the bike tuned, right off the bat? Probably a stupid question but bare with me, there’s going to be more from me eventually lol

Second question-Anyone have the same hardware setup I’m doing with the tune? Any negative feedback?

Thanks to all. Bring on spring!!!

When the second Vaquero came home, the ECU came out the first day and went to IVAN. Bought the bike with 6 (yes SIX) miles on the clock. It had less than 200 when it got home that day.

I do not have the same combination of MODS you list. Do the mods during winter downtime. In the Spring, it'll be ready to roll!

Ride safe,
Smokier

[Chuck A.]

Originally Posted by smokier

Bought the bike with 6 (yes SIX) miles on the clock. It had less than 200 when it got home that day.

About the same for me. Tried the bike out for about 6 miles. Bought it, then brought it home 80 miles of which half was curving 2 lane roads. That off/on throttle response about got the best of me after the first 10 miles. I sent the ECU off the same week. I could tell the first time I rode the bike with the mod things had changed for the better. Then I added the V&H slip-ons 2 weeks later but the low to mid rpm's sucked. Rode it that way for 2000 miles. Went back to the stock mufflers and it has great low to mid rpm's response now.

If you do the upgrade now on the ECU you might not know what you've gained but we will like what you have on the first ride.

[WiscoVulcanCowboy]

Originally Posted by smokier

When the second Vaquero came home, the ECU came out the first day and went to IVAN. Bought the bike with 6 (yes SIX) miles on the clock. It had less than 200 when it got home that day.

I bought the bike with 4 miles on it, never test drove it, except a short spin to the end of the block after I trailered it home in an enclosed trailer the dealer graciously let me borrow (it was only a 5 mile ride from the dealer, but it was really cold), then on a warmer 30 degree day I took it around the entire block, initial impressions were that it was much bigger than my 900 Custom that I traded lol but it seemed like the engine was suffocating. Also the stock exhaust was nothing to be desired for. I didn't take much notice of the throttle jerkyness, which I blame being distracted that I was cold as hell and I was just soaking in everything else about the bike. But I see it's a problem with everyone. I want it to be smooth, I want it to run cooler, and of course I want more power.

I have 6 miles on the clock now, I've got somewhat of a feel for how the bike is, and if Ivan's tune makes it better, then I figure it's worth the money along with the other upgrades.

I figured running it tuned brand new wouldn't hurt the bike, but ya never know!

[mbarr10]

I bought the bike with 4 miles on it, never test drove it, except a short spin to the end of the block after I trailered it home in an enclosed trailer the dealer graciously let me borrow (it was only a 5 mile ride from the dealer, but it was really cold), then on a warmer 30 degree day I took it around the entire block, initial impressions were that it was much bigger than my 900 Custom that I traded lol but it seemed like the engine was suffocating. Also the stock exhaust was nothing to be desired for. I didn't take much notice of the throttle jerkyness, which I blame being distracted that I was cold as hell and I was just soaking in everything else about the bike. But I see it's a problem with everyone. I want it to be smooth, I want it to run cooler, and of course I want more power.

I assume you got your bike from Team Winnebago, When I was looking for mine I almost had to come over there from Minneapolis to get what I wanted. I thought I was settling when I bought the 2016 locally and Not the all green I really wanted. Glad I did Now, The K-act braking system was more than worth it. You will like yours, too.
Check your belt tightness, they come way to tight and can affect your riding pleasure. Try 40PSI in the front, for better rideability/ tire longevity and better response also.
These bikes take a long time to break in also. More so than my 1500 Vulcan did. Some ( those more knowledgeable than myself) say 10,000 miles. But after 3-4,000 you will feel like it is coming along, and it still hasn't come into its own yet. The sweet spot for the motor seems to start out (new) at around 32-3500 rpms. as it breaks in it will slowly drop to around 25-2700 rpms. and that may be around 5-7,000 miles. If I remember correctly.
Ride safe

[WiscoVulcanCowboy]

Originally Posted by mbarr10

I assume you got your bike from Team Winnebago, When I was looking for mine I almost had to come over there from Minneapolis to get what I wanted. I thought I was settling when I bought the 2016 locally and Not the all green I really wanted. Glad I did Now, The K-act braking system was more than worth it. You will like yours, too.

Check your belt tightness, they come way to tight and can affect your riding pleasure. Try 40PSI in the front, for better rideability/ tire longevity and better response also.

These bikes take a long time to break in also. More so than my 1500 Vulcan did. Some ( those more knowledgeable than myself) say 10,000 miles. But after 3-4,000 you will feel like it is coming along, and it still hasn't come into its own yet. The sweet spot for the motor seems to start out (new) at around 32-3500 rpms. as it breaks in it will slowly drop to around 25-2700 rpms. and that may be around 5-7,000 miles. If I remember correctly.

Ride safe

Yes I bought it from Team Winnebagoland, I've purchased my last bike and snowmobile from them so they served me well as a returning customer.
I'm really looking forward to being able to use all the features on this bike. I'm assuming that being brand new, the belt is fresh and tight so I'll probably leave it and let it stretch out on its own, unless it gives me a problem. I noticed on my little test ride that everything about the bike was fresh, right, and needing a break in.
I think the dealer set my air pressure at 40 front and 36 or 38 rear already so I'm good there.
It's actually kind of nice to know it takes a while to break in, gives me peace of mind putting on a lot of miles. I assume it takes a while since Kawasaki added an extra piston ring.

Sent from my KOB-W09 using Tapatalk

[Peg]

The belt will certainly be fresh, and very tight. OEM spec tension for that belt is too high, and Kaw won't admit that. Team Winnebagoland will tension it to Kaw spec, and it will whine, and complain, and unless you listen to what the nice people here are telling you - eventually do damage.

My bike had it's belt tensioned to Kaw spec by the dealer who sold it to it's first owner. They also tensioned the second belt to that tension after the first one destroyed itself after only 7k miles, and then when I bought the bike (from the second owner after only 15k miles) the second belt and both pulleys again required replacement.

The belt is carbon / kevlar. It's very expensive and very strong, and it won't ever stretch. What it does do, is eat it's way through the pulleys or destroy final drive bearings if it's too tight. Loosen it off to the tension used on HD bikes, and it'll be good for the life of the bike.

[WiscoVulcanCowboy]

Originally Posted by Peg

The belt will certainly be fresh, and very tight. OEM spec tension for that belt is too high, and Kaw won't admit that. Team Winnebagoland will tension it to Kaw spec, and it will whine, and complain, and unless you listen to what the nice people here are telling you - eventually do damage.

My bike had it's belt tensioned to Kaw spec by the dealer who sold it to it's first owner. They also tensioned the second belt to that tension after the first one destroyed itself after only 7k miles, and then when I bought the bike (from the second owner after only 15k miles) the second belt and both pulleys again required replacement.

The belt is carbon / kevlar. It's very expensive and very strong, and it won't ever stretch. What it does do, is eat it's way through the pulleys or destroy final drive bearings if it's too tight. Loosen it off to the tension used on HD bikes, and it'll be good for the life of the bike.

I wasn’t aware of the belt being an issue. I’ll make sure to adjust it. Anyone have a write up (thread) with tension specs?

I’ve never adjusted the belt before, but I’m not mechanically illiterate.

Thank you for the heads up.


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[mbarr10]

I wasn’t aware of the belt being an issue. I’ll make sure to adjust it. Anyone have a write up (thread) with tension specs?

I’ve never adjusted the belt before, but I’m not mechanically illiterate.

Thank you for the heads up.

Same as a Harley, I believe it is 10 lbs flex? Lots of U-tube on the tool or I have seen a Twist test. Your choice.
I use the twist to check it, But keep in mind I am not the sharpest tool in the shed either.
If you adjust it, you can trust the lines on the frame. Big controversy here a year back and we ( 99% ) all came to the conclusion you can trust the lines.

Tires I run 40 and 40, No cupping, no issues, corners really well. Still have the stock front on 8,000 miles. I can feel some cupping in high speed corners though. Or it is my imagination, but still feel quite confident. Rear tire was gone by 6500 miles. But I ride hard. And I like lots of tread, since I ride almost every day rain or shine. But Not this week. Polar Vortex is a comin.

[Peg]

I keep mine at around 10mm movement at 10lbs pressure, using one of those cheap belt tension measuring tools you'll find on Ebay. Once set and centered, you'll never need to adjust the belt again, even when you remove the rear wheel.

To do that, I just leave the tensioners locked, and remove both shocks to drop the rear swingarm enough to slacken the belt and pull the axle. Belt will tension up exactly where you left it when you lower the bike and put the shocks back on.

If your shop insists on tensioning the belt to Kaw spec... just make sure they set it to the looser side of the recommendation. My workshop manual says:
Drive Belt Deflection (with 45 N, 4.6 kgf, 10 lb force)
Standard: 3.0 ∼ 4.5 mm (0.12 ∼ 0.18 in.)

That's just too tight for me, and the belt made a lot less noise & complaint about it when I loosened it off. Your results may vary, and while quite a few of us run belts twice as slack as Kaw tells us to - others are happy to run them as tight as a banjo string.