Shifting issue

[danb]

I have noticed that lately my 04 1500 nomad doesnt shift very smooth from 1st to 2nd gear. I have to let the engine rpm drop so it doesnt grind as it goes into gear. But I dont have trouble that it wants to jerk when I put it into 1st from a standstill which is what I would expect if the clutch wasnt completely disengaging. Is my clutch spring worn? My bike has 40,000 miles. I just changed oil to see if fresh oil would help, it didnt.
Dan B

[mick56]

Did you use the right type of oil ?
https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/upd...fication-mean/

[danb]

I've been using 10w40 dino oil. I decided to try 20w50 to see if it made a difference since the manual said it was ok for the temps I'm running in. But I couldnt tell that it made much difference.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by danb

I've been using 10w40 dino oil. I decided to try 20w50 to see if it made a difference since the manual said it was ok for the temps I'm running in. But I couldnt tell that it made much difference.

Not all 20w-50w is compatible with bikes. Is it JASO MA ? Check the link in my previous comment.

[andyvh1959]

What engine speeds are you at for shifting into 2nd? Once in 2nd gear does it stay in gear no matter how hard you get on the throttle? Does it grind and pop out of 2nd gear?

If it does any of that, hate to say it, but you very likely have a failed shift fork (like my 1600 Classic). I bought my Classic used, and cheap, knowing it would not shift into 2nd, and hold in that gear. So I rode a few years just revving a bit higher in 1st gear, then shifted twice to get past 2nd gear into 3rd. But last fall it quit shifting, so this winter the engine comes out, gets torn down and I'll fix 2nd gear. Only way to do it is to remove the engine and completely tear it down.

[danb]

I have been using castrol gtx. It is not jaso ma but is api sh and sj. The motorcycle shop recommended it.

[danb]

Andy,
It's not popping out of gear at all, so I dont think its a bent fork.

[andyvh1959]

The "grind" you hear is not the gear teeth, because all motorcycle transmissions these days use constant mesh gears. The grind is the three, sometimes five, engagement fingers or "dogs" on the side of a gear trying to engage. The gear slides sideways on the gearset shaft and engages another set of dogs to transmit power from the input gearset shaft to the output gearset shaft. If it was shifting ok before, and now is not, I really doubt the oil used has much effect at this point.

The 1500 and 1600 are known to have shifting issues, especially 2nd gear, where the dogs don't fully engage. Most often the shifting forks that slide the gears over to engage the dogs either get bent or broken and cannot push the gear dogs into full engagement.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...artQa5trPoDA61

Does it only grind under heavier 2nd gear loading? You said it will engage if you let the revs drop (which lowers the loads on the dogs to engage), but then stays engaged? Still sounds like a bent shifter fork to me. Could be excess play in the shift linkage that is not effectively making the full stroke shift action. You may be able to adjust the shifter linkage to take up any play. Check that anything in the shift linkage is lubed, able to easily move and pivot, and that any pinch bolts on the splines are tight. I'm not a fan of heel shifters as they don't give good shift feel. Does your Vulcan shift better into 2nd if you use the toe shifter versus the heel shifter.

How about the clutch condition? Clutch worn? Not fully disengaging? There is no clutch adjustment other than making sure the clutch master cylinder fluid is good and the slave cylinder is not leaking. If the clutch plates are sticking and not allowing power interruption during shifts will also make it shift harder.

[mick56]

" I'm not a fan of heel shifters as they don't give good shift feel".


Proper understatement that. I have seen blokes, almost stamping on the heel, to change down. No respect for, or understanding, of the mechanics, at all. Mostly Americans, who are used to automatic cars/trucks ect.

[redjay]

I had heel/toe shifters on my last 3 bikes and once you get use to them they are okay but you still have to be mindful of waiting to "feel" the gear change being completed.

[MAS Tequila]

The neutral finder may be the issue.

Or rather your shifting style may not work with the neutral finder.

You have to shift firmly and through neutral into second.

A lot of times lazy shifts produce bent shift fork symptoms.

If it starts popping out of gear, you're screwed.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

The neutral finder may be the issue.

Or rather your shifting style may not work with the neutral finder.

You have to shift firmly and through neutral into second.

A lot of times lazy shifts produce bent shift fork symptoms.

If it starts popping out of gear, you're screwed.

I rest my case.

[Chuck A.]

Originally Posted by mick56

Did you use the right type of oil ?
https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/upd...fication-mean/

Good read Mick.👍

[degreaser]

Yup, at 40K miles your '04 1500 is going to need a new spring, get a spring for an '02 or '03 mean streak only, those 2 years the spring for the 1500 was a better spring, in '04 they changed it

[andyvh1959]

I've been riding BMW flat twins for 30 years. The old airheads and my 94 R1100RS, well you learned to shift on its terms, and they did not like sloppy inaccurate shifting effort. Also, being a shaft drive bike means less forgiveness in the final drive. Also, being somewhat "big" twins with heavy flywheel effect, engine momentum affects shifting.

I got accustomed to revving the engine up a bit more before the 1-2 shift, then lightly preload the shifter to take up the play, with a coordinated throttle chop and "just" enough clutch to disengage the driveline load and it clicks solid into the next gear. Key too, is to minimize any rpm drop during the shift, keep that heavy flywheel effect spinning. All sounds like speed shifting, which in effect it is.