oil change interval - Page 3

bladenbullet · 08-28-2016, 12:10 AM

btw...love the colors on the bike....nice classic look...

**minst7877** · 08-28-2016, 12:00 PM

When I had my 1500 rebuilt after the oil gear went out my mechanic flat out told me he had to do the first two oil changes or he wouldn't stand behind the rebuild. He knew that I used synthetic in my bike and told me not to put any synthetic in it for the first 4000 miles. He changed the oil at 500 miles then at 1500 with conventional oil told me I could start running synthetic at 4500. Did this and motor continued to get stronger thru 10,000 miles then settled in and has run great ever since.

DC

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tortuga · 08-28-2016, 03:59 PM

So, in conclusion, you can see it really doesn't matter what oil or filter or interval you choose. Everyone has the answer. Now, hmmm, I wonder which are the best tires?

**Top Cat** · 08-28-2016, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tortuga

So, in conclusion, you can see it really doesn't matter what oil or filter or interval you choose. Everyone has the answer. Now, hmmm, I wonder which are the best tires?

Michelin Commander II

or Cobra

degreaser · 08-29-2016, 05:33 PM

shell rotella t6 5/40 synthetic, is....... Not synthetic, sorry to break the news to u

**Top Cat** · 08-29-2016, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by degreaser

shell rotella t6 5/40 synthetic, is....... Not synthetic, sorry to break the news to u

What does this say

http://www.kellerheartt.com/Shell-Ro...LA%20-%20Shell

In case you missed it, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (CJ-4) Fully Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil

hammer · 08-30-2016, 02:05 AM

Wally World for cheap. I may convert when I run out of the 4 gals of 15w40 Rotella I still have left.

pjandbee · 08-30-2016, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tortuga

So, in conclusion, you can see it really doesn't matter what oil or filter or interval you choose. Everyone has the answer. Now, hmmm, I wonder which are the best tires?

NO!, a quality filter is required! Like not a Fram to start.

Tortuga · 08-30-2016, 04:53 PM

Okay, I'll give you that one. Skip the Fram filters.

degreaser · 08-31-2016, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top Cat

What does this say

In case you missed it, Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (CJ-4) Fully Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil

oh sure, I figured someone would get it wrong and bingo you posted this. hmm, ok here we go, maybe you could do some research on this because I tried telling others this and no one seems to care or to bother searching it out, but here we go, shell rotella t t6 5w40 synthetic is... not synthetic, see I said it again, and what you did was read a web site that says its synthetic or your looked at the jug that says SYNTHETIC, but wait, is it really synthetic? no it's not synthetic, so what is it? the biggest mistake those trade panel lawyers did in that court room was allow the word 'synthetic' to be printed on that jug shell sells as synthetic, (i'm not saying rotella t6 is bad oil, its not bad, its good oil, but its just not synthetic), and this is why there is confusion of what is synthetic oil and what is not synthetic, because at the trade panel talks with oil company lawyers, there were no chemists present nor oil refinery engineers nor oil processing experts, no, guess who was there? it was all marketing lawyers, see what I just said? 'marketing lawyers', they decided that the word 'synthetic' is not an oil refinery processing word (and you can interpret this to mean that the word synthetic on the jug is not based on the chemistry of the oil in that jug), and the trade panels decision was that the word 'synthetic on t6 is a marketing word only, and when you say to me What does this say? it says 'Synthetic' but it really says 'Marketing a jug of oil to so many buyers who do not know that this word on the jug is purely for marketing purposes only.' I don't fault you for not knowing because millions others don't know either, but if you want to correct me, ok, but please educate yourself first so that you don't post further misinformation, actually use it, I don't care, I don't know you at all and don't think I want to at this point so do what you want

degreaser · 08-31-2016, 05:15 AM

by the way, if you check out the prices on shell t6, the price alone should be a clue for you that its not synthetic

**plumber63** · 08-31-2016, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by degreaser

oh sure, I figured someone would get it wrong and bingo you posted this. hmm, ok here we go, maybe you could do some research on this because I tried telling others this and no one seems to care or to bother searching it out, but here we go, shell rotella t t6 5w40 synthetic is... not synthetic, see I said it again, and what you did was read a web site that says its synthetic or your looked at the jug that says SYNTHETIC, but wait, is it really synthetic? no it's not synthetic, so what is it? the biggest mistake those trade panel lawyers did in that court room was allow the word 'synthetic' to be printed on that jug shell sells as synthetic, (i'm not saying rotella t6 is bad oil, its not bad, its good oil, but its just not synthetic), and this is why there is confusion of what is synthetic oil and what is not synthetic, because at the trade panel talks with oil company lawyers, there were no chemists present nor oil refinery engineers nor oil processing experts, no, guess who was there? it was all marketing lawyers, see what I just said? 'marketing lawyers', they decided that the word 'synthetic' is not an oil refinery processing word (and you can interpret this to mean that the word synthetic on the jug is not based on the chemistry of the oil in that jug), and the trade panels decision was that the word 'synthetic on t6 is a marketing word only, and when you say to me What does this say? it says 'Synthetic' but it really says 'Marketing a jug of oil to so many buyers who do not know that this word on the jug is purely for marketing purposes only.' I don't fault you for not knowing because millions others don't know either, but if you want to correct me, ok, but please educate yourself first so that you don't post further misinformation, actually use it, I don't care, I don't know you at all and don't think I want to at this point so do what you want

Ok. this is your story, so how do you know this is true? Can you prove it?

I found this, that claims a misprint on the msds.
http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic81122

**Sabre-t** · 09-01-2016, 12:29 AM

Synthetic simply means that it is made using chemical processes rather than distillation on base oils of classes III, IV, or V. Dino oil with a base oil class of III processed by chemical means is classified as synthetic. The III classification mostly means that it has a higher viscosity than class I or class II dino oils which are more generally used to make conventional oil.

Semi-synthetic is just a blend of synthetic and conventional oils. Rotella T5 is a semi-synthetic. It is described on the label as being a "synthetic blend."

There is no "full" synthetic type. It is either synthetic, semi-synthetic, or conventional.

Class IV or class V base oils are used to make what most folks consider to be "full" synthetic oils. These bases provide much better control of molecule size and make more durable motor oils, especially class V. So basically, if you want what most folks call a "full" synthetic, you need to know if the oil was made from class III or class IV/V base oils.

If you are trying to find out what oils use class IV or V bases, look for PAO (poly-alpha-olefins) for class IV. Class V (any base not included in bases III and IV) is usually ester based, but can be other bases like GTL ("gas to liquid" typically made from methane).

Rotella T6 could be made from class III by chemical not distillation processes. If so, with the current classification system, it can claim to be 100% synthetic. I have not been able to find out what base it is, though. However, they do say that the base was selected for it's lower viscosity. To me, that says that it is not a dino oil, since a class III dino oil has a very high viscosity. Maybe Shell might be willing to disclose the base class if someone asked.

Unfortunately, with class V being a catch-all category, some class V bases will be better than others. Class IV base or class V based on esters are the best bets until something else gets wide spread acceptance as being better.

**Top Cat** · 09-01-2016, 01:48 PM

OK, so for me it boils down to, I will continue to use Rotella T-6 in all my bikes just as I have done for the last few years.

**Sabre-t** · 09-01-2016, 03:42 PM

Unfortunately, synthetic vs. conventional is not the only issue. What additives are in a specific oil? We all know (or should know) that friction modifiers (often Molybdenum disulfide) used for auto transmissions are bad for wet clutches. But what about other modifiers? How much zinc and what source (ZDP, ZDDP, or ZDTP) is in the oil or does it matter in a motorcycle? What about anti-foam and dispersants? Too many variables and not nearly enough info available. There is a lot of info on what these do, but very little info on which are needed for specific engines.

08-28-2016, 12:10 AM	#31
bladenbullet Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Southwestern Florida Posts: 115	btw...love the colors on the bike....nice classic look... Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

08-28-2016, 12:00 PM	#32
minst7877 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,286	When I had my 1500 rebuilt after the oil gear went out my mechanic flat out told me he had to do the first two oil changes or he wouldn't stand behind the rebuild. He knew that I used synthetic in my bike and told me not to put any synthetic in it for the first 4000 miles. He changed the oil at 500 miles then at 1500 with conventional oil told me I could start running synthetic at 4500. Did this and motor continued to get stronger thru 10,000 miles then settled in and has run great ever since. DC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Me and my 99 G1 Nomad on US 2 by the Lake Michigan Shoreline. Judge's Oil Gear failed and engine overhauled @ 35563 miles VBA/KawaNOW #01625 Christian Motorcyclists Assoc. Wheels Of Destiny Chapter #735 PA Wilds NE/Eastern Canada regional rally July 2012 Eureka Springs National 2015 Rolling Thunder Washington DC 2016 NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2016 VRA Eastern National at Maggie Valley 2017 99 Nomad G1 gone but never forgotten traded 4/8/17 for a 2017 Indian Roadmaster
	0

08-29-2016, 05:33 PM	#35
degreaser Advanced Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Canada Posts: 614	shell rotella t6 5/40 synthetic, is....... Not synthetic, sorry to break the news to u __________________ 04 1500 sold, got an 800 now Atlantic Canada Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

08-30-2016, 02:05 AM	#37
hammer Sr. Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 1,329	Wally World for cheap. I may convert when I run out of the 4 gals of 15w40 Rotella I still have left. __________________ Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad
	0

08-31-2016, 05:15 AM	#41
degreaser Advanced Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Canada Posts: 614	by the way, if you check out the prices on shell t6, the price alone should be a clue for you that its not synthetic __________________ 04 1500 sold, got an 800 now Atlantic Canada
	0

08-28-2016, 03:59 PM	#33
Tortuga Advanced Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Sahuarita, AZ Posts: 559	So, in conclusion, you can see it really doesn't matter what oil or filter or interval you choose. Everyone has the answer. Now, hmmm, I wonder which are the best tires?
	0

08-30-2016, 04:53 PM	#39
Tortuga Advanced Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Sahuarita, AZ Posts: 559	Okay, I'll give you that one. Skip the Fram filters.
	0

09-01-2016, 12:29 AM	#43
Sabre-t Join Date: May 2015 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 838	Synthetic simply means that it is made using chemical processes rather than distillation on base oils of classes III, IV, or V. Dino oil with a base oil class of III processed by chemical means is classified as synthetic. The III classification mostly means that it has a higher viscosity than class I or class II dino oils which are more generally used to make conventional oil. Semi-synthetic is just a blend of synthetic and conventional oils. Rotella T5 is a semi-synthetic. It is described on the label as being a "synthetic blend." There is no "full" synthetic type. It is either synthetic, semi-synthetic, or conventional. Class IV or class V base oils are used to make what most folks consider to be "full" synthetic oils. These bases provide much better control of molecule size and make more durable motor oils, especially class V. So basically, if you want what most folks call a "full" synthetic, you need to know if the oil was made from class III or class IV/V base oils. If you are trying to find out what oils use class IV or V bases, look for PAO (poly-alpha-olefins) for class IV. Class V (any base not included in bases III and IV) is usually ester based, but can be other bases like GTL ("gas to liquid" typically made from methane). Rotella T6 could be made from class III by chemical not distillation processes. If so, with the current classification system, it can claim to be 100% synthetic. I have not been able to find out what base it is, though. However, they do say that the base was selected for it's lower viscosity. To me, that says that it is not a dino oil, since a class III dino oil has a very high viscosity. Maybe Shell might be willing to disclose the base class if someone asked. Unfortunately, with class V being a catch-all category, some class V bases will be better than others. Class IV base or class V based on esters are the best bets until something else gets wide spread acceptance as being better.
	0

09-01-2016, 01:48 PM	#44
Top Cat Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Peoples Republic of New York State Posts: 15,154	OK, so for me it boils down to, I will continue to use Rotella T-6 in all my bikes just as I have done for the last few years. __________________ Tim "TC" Conley VBA #9 2011 Victory Kingpin mine 2013 Victory Boardwalk -hers [LEFT][COLOR=#000000] [SIZE=4]
	0

09-01-2016, 03:42 PM	#45
Sabre-t Join Date: May 2015 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 838	Unfortunately, synthetic vs. conventional is not the only issue. What additives are in a specific oil? We all know (or should know) that friction modifiers (often Molybdenum disulfide) used for auto transmissions are bad for wet clutches. But what about other modifiers? How much zinc and what source (ZDP, ZDDP, or ZDTP) is in the oil or does it matter in a motorcycle? What about anti-foam and dispersants? Too many variables and not nearly enough info available. There is a lot of info on what these do, but very little info on which are needed for specific engines.
	0