Progressive Fork Springs? Yes or No... - Page 2

Chuck A. · 10-18-2015, 10:01 AM

So what is the verdict here? Progressive or not? I've got Progressive fork springs coming in the mail. With 42600 miles on an '03, I would think they've got to do something for it. Going with 15w DelRay fluid. By seeing the fluid in the rear shocks, I'd bet the forks have got the original fluid in them.

Lumberjack · 10-18-2015, 12:41 PM

No one has asked (or stated) what PSI you are using in the tires...

radco · 10-18-2015, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck A.

So what is the verdict here? Progressive or not? I've got Progressive fork springs coming in the mail. With 42600 miles on an '03, I would think they've got to do something for it. Going with 15w DelRay fluid. By seeing the fluid in the rear shocks, I'd bet the forks have got the original fluid in them.

From other threads I read most like toe Progressive springs! I see you have a 03 Nomad so I believe it has regular springs' and the changer over is easier then the 04 that has Cartridge Springs set up! The fork oil change over has also been a + for most riders! Please post your results !

radco · 10-18-2015, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by id-man

Hmm, so even with progressive springs AND heavier oil you're still not getting the ideal result. Could the 20wt possibly be hindering the new springs' ability to absorb? Wouldn't you know 20 weight is what I bought to switch to when I got the time, wasn't planning on doing the springs yet though...Getting complicated.

If I remember right the 04 has a Cartridge type fork spring and Progressive does not list a kit for the 04! But I believe on Gadgets page it show how to remove the cartridge and install the spring kit!
FYI Your mileage may vary

skiman · 10-18-2015, 01:59 PM

1500 L series have cartridge forks 1500 G series do not. Look at your bikes vin tag it somewhere I read it should be 7th digit of the vin number.

I was wondering if anybody that has changed to progressive springs has measured the sag I was wondering how close to 2 inches it was.

To do it measure the fork fully extended wheel off the ground. Then measure with the rider on the bike pull up on the bars and gently let it settle back down and measure then push the bars down and gently release and measure these two measurement should be pretty close like no more then 15mm difference if it's way off the forks are binding somewhere. Now subtract the average of the last two measurements from the first if it's not around 1 3/4 to 2 inches the preload is not right and the spacer needs to be adjusted.

Jllm02199 · 10-21-2015, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VulcanE

Lets face it, the rear shocks are getting old, my '05 I've had for nearly 10 1/2 years, and if fresh oil makes a lot of difference in the forks, it could probably make that much of a difference in the rear shocks. There is a write up on here about how to change the oil in the rear shocks, but it is a little on the dangerous side.

I put 412 progressive rears on mine. I didn't know how bad my shock were till I changed them.

skiman · 10-21-2015, 07:37 PM

Today I put a 1 inch spacer in the forks of my 2002 Nomad wow what a big difference in ride quality, brake dive and the bike handled better too. Best of all it was nearly free.

Bud2rat · 10-21-2015, 08:18 PM

Skiman, Are you running the stock springs and added a 1" spacer or did you use Progressive springs? I have a 2001 model and I'm fixing to change out the fork oil.

Harleysaki · 10-21-2015, 09:23 PM

Hell, I'm subscribing to this thread, as I also hate the fork action on my '04 Nomad 1500. I'm just a 157-lb. weakling, but the nose dive and bottoming out drives me up the wall. I have sent 2 e-mails to Progressive to find what they have for a remedy, but they have ignored me both times. I KNOW somebody on this forum has the answer . . .

skiman · 10-21-2015, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bud2rat

Skiman, Are you running the stock springs and added a 1" spacer or did you use Progressive springs? I have a 2001 model and I'm fixing to change out the fork oil.

Stock Springs they are duel rate like the one from progressive but I can't find any info on the stock spring rates. The spacer take up the soft side of the spring I was going to go with a bigger spacer but turns out 1 inch put my sag with me on the bike right at 2 inches so it a perfect 1/3 of the total travel.

I was thinking I bought the bike used so I think the springs are stock I'd hate to think anyone paid for such a crummy spring setup. If someone has a picture of stock spring for a 2002 1500fi I would like to see it so I would know for sure.

skiman · 10-21-2015, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harleysaki

Hell, I'm subscribing to this thread, as I also hate the fork action on my '04 Nomad 1500. I'm just a 157-lb. weakling, but the nose dive and bottoming out drives me up the wall. I have sent 2 e-mails to Progressive to find what they have for a remedy, but they have ignored me both times. I KNOW somebody on this forum has the answer . . .

A one inch spacer should help a lot I'm 225 without gear and it really worked well for me I was going to order race tech springs and use a longer spacer I still may but for now I'm going to run this set up a while and see how it does so far it is night and day better.

**minst7877** · 10-22-2015, 09:07 PM

I had the fork oil changed in my 99 this spring to 20wt. It made quite a bit of difference but may add a spacer from what I am seeing here. These machines need a better front fork spring for sure.

DC

Chuck A. · 10-22-2015, 09:35 PM

"03 Nomad. I just finished the change to Progressive springs and 15w oil. Changed the oil to 15w in the rear shocks last week. Man Please!! What a MAJOR difference on the rough curvy backroads. The changes just soaked up the roughness like it was a whole different bike. Handled so much better hauling it around the curves and hitting the same bumps that use the bottom out the bike and jam my back. When on the side stand the forks are extended right at 1 3/4 inches more than before. Yes, '03 is the cartridge forks. Well worth the time.

VNGreenKnight · 04-22-2023, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck A.

"03 Nomad. I just finished the change to Progressive springs and 15w oil. Changed the oil to 15w in the rear shocks last week. Man Please!! What a MAJOR difference on the rough curvy backroads. The changes just soaked up the roughness like it was a whole different bike. Handled so much better hauling it around the curves and hitting the same bumps that use the bottom out the bike and jam my back. When on the side stand the forks are extended right at 1 3/4 inches more than before. Yes, '03 is the cartridge forks. Well worth the time.

Hellooo, old thread 🧵 I know, but if anyone reacts would be of great fun 🤩. I am in the rebuilding state since four years, and some conversions as well as cleaning up the original parts. Was going to order progr.springs because I was happy with an earlier bike after replacing orig.
A little bit surprised when opened up my vn1500g fork to find these progressive look alike. The fork oil? 😱, murky and black water!
Obviously need to check the rear- thx.
Regards// Peter

andyvh1959 · 04-24-2023, 10:19 AM

Back in the late 70s and 80s, the motorcycle magazines did great articles on modifying the damper style and cartridge style forks, which are still very common to the Vulcans. Basically the mods are greater volume of lighter oil, progressive wound springs, preload spacer to reduce static sag, and in some cases adding air valves to adjust for chainging loads (like a fairing, carrying a passenger, etc). The mods details are:
1. Progressive wound springs, which start with softer rate on the bottom and get more stiff as the forks are compressed further.
2. Preload spacers, adding spacers reduce the amount of sag when you sit on the bike. Proper preload should be less than one inch. Look up "satic sag fork preload".
3. Oil volume, the factory stock volume is the LEAST amount of oil put in for the least cost to provide lube and damping control. Best practice is to remove the fork springs, fully compress the forks, oil fill the forks to within 3" from the top. Then reinstall the fork springs after the fork is extended.
4. Oil weight, go to 10wt or 15wt oil, instead of heavier oil. The bigger gain in ride quality is not heavier oil, but MORE oil. Lighter oil lets the forks react better to small bumps. More oil in the fork legs aids the forks to handle bigger bump by reducing the air volume above the oil. The reduced air volume above the oil acts like a secondary progressive spring, greatly reducing fork bottoming and dive upon braking. And adding oil volume (up to the 3" from the top of the compressed legs) will NOT blow out the fok seals.

Back in the late 70s it was also common to enlarge the holes in the damper tubes to help the oil flow better handling bumps. Since then many manufacturers applied those mods to the stock forks. So it may be less likely to need to modify the damper rod ports. The biggest impact is ithe progressvie wound springs, and greater volume of lighter oil. Back in the 70s some riders would drill/tap the fork leg caps to add Shrader air valves, and then the air pressure can be adjusted in the fork legs like is done on the air assisted stock rear shocks. Adding air at 10 to 20psi helps the forks handle the load for added accessories (like a fariing).

10-18-2015, 10:01 AM	#16
Chuck A. Advanced Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Hartselle Alabama Posts: 990	So what is the verdict here? Progressive or not? I've got Progressive fork springs coming in the mail. With 42600 miles on an '03, I would think they've got to do something for it. Going with 15w DelRay fluid. By seeing the fluid in the rear shocks, I'd bet the forks have got the original fluid in them. __________________ Have A Good One, Chuck Patriot Guard Riders Sons Of Liberty Riders Alabama Road Captain 2015 Voyager 2003 1500 NOMAD FI sold 6/19 VBA #2993 RUSSELL DAYLONG SEATS ROCK!! DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance. SO MANY ROADS, SO LITTLE TIME. Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

10-18-2015, 01:59 PM	#20
skiman Advanced Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Nashville,NC Posts: 782	1500 L series have cartridge forks 1500 G series do not. Look at your bikes vin tag it somewhere I read it should be 7th digit of the vin number. I was wondering if anybody that has changed to progressive springs has measured the sag I was wondering how close to 2 inches it was. To do it measure the fork fully extended wheel off the ground. Then measure with the rider on the bike pull up on the bars and gently let it settle back down and measure then push the bars down and gently release and measure these two measurement should be pretty close like no more then 15mm difference if it's way off the forks are binding somewhere. Now subtract the average of the last two measurements from the first if it's not around 1 3/4 to 2 inches the preload is not right and the spacer needs to be adjusted. __________________ 2002 Nomad 1500 FI 12" buckhorn apes Chuckster air kit Mustang seat and fender bib Avon Venom tires 2 right side Harley mufflers the quiet side. TFI fuel control Progressive 430 shocks 430-4213B (Best Mod to the bike I've made) Progressive fork springs (See Above) Kuryakyn grips A touch of chrome farkles Reckless fairing color match 2 tone paint. Kenwood deck with Polk 5 1/4" speakers. 2007 GSX1250 Stock for now Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by skiman; 10-19-2015 at 03:43 AM.
	0

10-21-2015, 07:37 PM	#22
skiman Advanced Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Nashville,NC Posts: 782	Today I put a 1 inch spacer in the forks of my 2002 Nomad wow what a big difference in ride quality, brake dive and the bike handled better too. Best of all it was nearly free. __________________ 2002 Nomad 1500 FI 12" buckhorn apes Chuckster air kit Mustang seat and fender bib Avon Venom tires 2 right side Harley mufflers the quiet side. TFI fuel control Progressive 430 shocks 430-4213B (Best Mod to the bike I've made) Progressive fork springs (See Above) Kuryakyn grips A touch of chrome farkles Reckless fairing color match 2 tone paint. Kenwood deck with Polk 5 1/4" speakers. 2007 GSX1250 Stock for now
	0

10-21-2015, 08:18 PM	#23
Bud2rat Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: St. Pauls, NC Posts: 2,089	Skiman, Are you running the stock springs and added a 1" spacer or did you use Progressive springs? I have a 2001 model and I'm fixing to change out the fork oil. __________________ Robert Torrey VBA# 02077 Vroc# 27672 1996 800A Customized (SOLD) 2001 1500 Nomad (The Mistress) 2013 Voyager 2014 SE Rally - Elkins, WV 2016 SE Rally - Helen, Ga
	0

10-21-2015, 09:23 PM	#24
Harleysaki Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 10	Hell, I'm subscribing to this thread, as I also hate the fork action on my '04 Nomad 1500. I'm just a 157-lb. weakling, but the nose dive and bottoming out drives me up the wall. I have sent 2 e-mails to Progressive to find what they have for a remedy, but they have ignored me both times. I KNOW somebody on this forum has the answer . . . __________________ [SIGPIC]
	0

10-18-2015, 12:41 PM	#17
Lumberjack Advanced Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 542	No one has asked (or stated) what PSI you are using in the tires...
	0

10-22-2015, 09:07 PM	#27
minst7877 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,286	I had the fork oil changed in my 99 this spring to 20wt. It made quite a bit of difference but may add a spacer from what I am seeing here. These machines need a better front fork spring for sure. DC __________________ Me and my 99 G1 Nomad on US 2 by the Lake Michigan Shoreline. Judge's Oil Gear failed and engine overhauled @ 35563 miles VBA/KawaNOW #01625 Christian Motorcyclists Assoc. Wheels Of Destiny Chapter #735 PA Wilds NE/Eastern Canada regional rally July 2012 Eureka Springs National 2015 Rolling Thunder Washington DC 2016 NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2016 VRA Eastern National at Maggie Valley 2017 99 Nomad G1 gone but never forgotten traded 4/8/17 for a 2017 Indian Roadmaster
	0

10-22-2015, 09:35 PM	#28
Chuck A. Advanced Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Hartselle Alabama Posts: 990	"03 Nomad. I just finished the change to Progressive springs and 15w oil. Changed the oil to 15w in the rear shocks last week. Man Please!! What a MAJOR difference on the rough curvy backroads. The changes just soaked up the roughness like it was a whole different bike. Handled so much better hauling it around the curves and hitting the same bumps that use the bottom out the bike and jam my back. When on the side stand the forks are extended right at 1 3/4 inches more than before. Yes, '03 is the cartridge forks. Well worth the time. __________________ Have A Good One, Chuck Patriot Guard Riders Sons Of Liberty Riders Alabama Road Captain 2015 Voyager 2003 1500 NOMAD FI sold 6/19 VBA #2993 RUSSELL DAYLONG SEATS ROCK!! DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance. SO MANY ROADS, SO LITTLE TIME. Last edited by Chuck A.; 10-22-2015 at 09:42 PM.
	0

04-24-2023, 10:19 AM	#30
andyvh1959 Advanced Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Green Bay WI Posts: 758	Back in the late 70s and 80s, the motorcycle magazines did great articles on modifying the damper style and cartridge style forks, which are still very common to the Vulcans. Basically the mods are greater volume of lighter oil, progressive wound springs, preload spacer to reduce static sag, and in some cases adding air valves to adjust for chainging loads (like a fairing, carrying a passenger, etc). The mods details are: 1. Progressive wound springs, which start with softer rate on the bottom and get more stiff as the forks are compressed further. 2. Preload spacers, adding spacers reduce the amount of sag when you sit on the bike. Proper preload should be less than one inch. Look up "satic sag fork preload". 3. Oil volume, the factory stock volume is the LEAST amount of oil put in for the least cost to provide lube and damping control. Best practice is to remove the fork springs, fully compress the forks, oil fill the forks to within 3" from the top. Then reinstall the fork springs after the fork is extended. 4. Oil weight, go to 10wt or 15wt oil, instead of heavier oil. The bigger gain in ride quality is not heavier oil, but MORE oil. Lighter oil lets the forks react better to small bumps. More oil in the fork legs aids the forks to handle bigger bump by reducing the air volume above the oil. The reduced air volume above the oil acts like a secondary progressive spring, greatly reducing fork bottoming and dive upon braking. And adding oil volume (up to the 3" from the top of the compressed legs) will NOT blow out the fok seals. Back in the late 70s it was also common to enlarge the holes in the damper tubes to help the oil flow better handling bumps. Since then many manufacturers applied those mods to the stock forks. So it may be less likely to need to modify the damper rod ports. The biggest impact is ithe progressvie wound springs, and greater volume of lighter oil. Back in the 70s some riders would drill/tap the fork leg caps to add Shrader air valves, and then the air pressure can be adjusted in the fork legs like is done on the air assisted stock rear shocks. Adding air at 10 to 20psi helps the forks handle the load for added accessories (like a fariing). __________________ My $1200 Vulcan, to start from. Last edited by andyvh1959; 04-24-2023 at 10:32 AM.
	1