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Old 03-23-2019, 02:57 PM   #61
ponch   ponch is offline
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Originally Posted by DragonLady58 View Post
You are correct, but their angle drive is rear based. Yes, there are alot of rear ends connected to driveshafts, but the rears are designed to absorb alot of punishment and shock. The weak link in the vulcan line is that angle drive. Even on their race bikes, few to never a 90 degree drive problem (BMW has had a few, but the % is nowhere as many as the Vulcans in thier rear drives)....Moto Guzzi, even Laverda had a big VTwin like the Guzzis waaay back in the day).
Though the GoldWings never were raced outright, they are about to go 500K, with pratically -0- fails on their rears.
Yes, the rears are alot heavier built. What I am saying is there are a lot of Vulcan/Harley style VTwins out there....(Honda VTX & the 750s-1100s, the Suzuki C50s/C90s, etc. that have drive shafts, and they don't have the problem with their angle drives)
Wanna talk punishment?
YAMA VMAX......130+ horses, capable of blowing away most production superbikes, 10 second 1/4 mile times, straight off the showroon floor, a little tuning and some light mods, 150+ horses, can blow a driveshaft before their AngleDrive.....
What I'm getting at, the big vulcans, had the huge engines, they should have redesigned the angle drives with heavier bearings, extra oil flow, and better reliability.
Honda, yamaha, suzuki had problems, the engineers are updating it in the next years models.
Look at the plastic oil gear. Replaced after 2 years.....MaKawa knew of the angle drive problems by 2004....it was marginal....they wanted to sell replacement parts. They saved updates for the newer models....
By your definition, all shaft drives have an angle drive in the final drive, even the nomad, which has two, by your definition, with one on the engine side. Thing is, the final drive in the Nomad isn't the weak point as far as I know. BMWs have problems with the unit bearing on the hub. Pre hexhead, it was a shimming issue, later ones it was poor sealed bearings, so the FD oil has no impact on it. There is no cush drive on BMWs and up until the camheads, had a dry clutch on the boxers. Newer liquid cooled boxers have a wet clutch. That said, Gold Wings have a much heavier duty bearing setup and they don't fail. My point is that with shaft drive, keeping the power flow straight with just the 90˚ in the final drive itself is the best way to go. That's not possible with cruiser style V-Twins. Belt would work better, but belts are expensive to replace and when they break, you're stranded. They also don't hold up well if you ride on gravel roads a lot. The small pebbles damage them. I've also heard of Kawasaki's having problems with their belt drives and the nut on the front sprocket losening and the shaft getting chewed up. The problem with the big four is that they are made to a price point which will be evident with some parts of a bike, particularly as they age and then try to get parts when they get beyond a certain age.
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Old 03-23-2019, 06:52 PM   #62
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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Totally Agree with you Ponch....the engineering lacks in certain areas....Angle Drive, Ring and Pinion, tomato~tomoto....
The Bearings in the 90 Degree angle drive, if they were heavier, and the oiling to them improved, we'd never have a problem with them. Almost every one that has some miles under its belt, that comes in to the shop, thats never had the bearings changed, shows alot of wear, even if taken care of and babied. But....all in all, the Nomads are Fantastic bikes!

On A Lighter note....you should have seen me adapting a S10 Rearend to that Nomad building a trike. Driveshaft was only 12" long with a dual sprocket, then supported by a pillar block bearing at the very end....then on the driveshaft to the rearend, on centerline at the drive end had a jackshaft, supported by pillarblock bearings....The 2 driveshafts were connected by a doublerow chain.
Talk about fun....Then there was the rotation issue....guy that bought it loves it though. Hope I never have to work on it again. Thank God he's down in South Ca....
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Last edited by DragonLady58; 03-23-2019 at 07:00 PM.
 
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Old 07-29-2019, 09:33 PM   #63
mick56   mick56 is offline
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This is what you will find under that first cover.The most disorganised wiring set up i have ever seen.And yes it is standard.The bearing you are looking for,is under that copper coloured dome.Undo the 8mm bolts on the outer casing,pull that spring off,and there you are.Enjoy.
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File Type: jpg 2018-10-18 15.16.22.jpg (89.4 KB, 30 views)
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:45 AM   #64
Ironraven   Ironraven is offline
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Damn... I read through all this hoping for a simple fix, got my cover off and tested that bearing and it turns out it's the inner assembly, not the outer one :( does anyone know how to get this bearing out? Does it press in? Do I have to split the case entirely?

https://www.instagram.com/p/B1CwpRTn..._web_copy_link
 
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Old 08-12-2019, 11:00 AM   #65
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Here's a still of the damn thing, just in case the link to the video doesn't load.

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Old 08-21-2019, 01:52 AM   #66
gmartin   gmartin is offline
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How many miles are on this bike?
 
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Old 08-21-2019, 04:11 AM   #67
mick56   mick56 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironraven View Post
Here's a still of the damn thing, just in case the link to the video doesn't load.

The lack of a reply, tells me that nobody has replaced one of these yet.
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Old 08-21-2019, 05:05 AM   #68
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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I had one of these go out on a 1600.

The bearing had come apart, so it came out easily.

If you pull the piece off that hides the balls, it's a bit delicate, but you can get a very small 2 jaw puller on it.
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:15 PM   #69
Ironraven   Ironraven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAS Tequila View Post
I had one of these go out on a 1600.

The bearing had come apart, so it came out easily.

If you pull the piece off that hides the balls, it's a bit delicate, but you can get a very small 2 jaw puller on it.
So yank the center bit off? I'll give that a shot.
 
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:01 AM   #70
mick56   mick56 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAS Tequila View Post
I had one of these go out on a 1600.

The bearing had come apart, so it came out easily.

If you pull the piece off that hides the balls, it's a bit delicate, but you can get a very small 2 jaw puller on it.

Looking at his photo,what "part that hides the balls", are you referring to ?
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:24 AM   #71
MAS Tequila   MAS Tequila is offline
 
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The 'cage' that the balls are behind.

https://www.astbearings.com/ball-bea...eparators.html
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:24 AM   #72
mick56   mick56 is offline
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The 'cage' that the balls are behind.

https://www.astbearings.com/ball-bea...eparators.html
Saw the link.I assume you are talking about getting the bearing out,by destroying it first. There must be a way of getting it out intact surely. Nobody wants to be smashing things up to remove them.The chance of bits of crap getting to the system is pretty high.
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Old 09-14-2019, 07:21 PM   #73
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Don't post unless you know what you're Talking about JackAss !...
 
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:18 PM   #74
Peg   Peg is offline
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Don't post unless you know what you're Talking about JackAss !...
You'll get a lot more help around here if you don't arrive talking that ?
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:24 AM   #75
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Thumbs Up What Peg said!

Yeap, a little respect goes a long way!

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