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Old 08-06-2015, 11:31 PM   #16
hammer   hammer is offline
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That's a great adaptation Bud. DIY at it's best. Adapt and overcome

My problem got solved too, so my purpose in all this is to find solution(s) in available parts so anyone can, without too much effort or cost, service and maintain their Kawi 1600 EFI fuel pump.

Thanks for pitching in.
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:58 PM   #17
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I almost forgot to measure the bushing for you. It is;

14mm long

17mm diameter on top of the ribs
15.4 mm diameter between the ribs
9.5mm inside diameter of the bottom hole
8.5mm id of the top hole

I hope this helps.

It looks a LOT like the pic that you posted of the Mitusbishi bushing. You may have nailed it.
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:04 AM   #18
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Yes thanks, I am pretty positive I know the Mitsubishi grommet is the one and I ordered it. I also have an option being worked on by a local diesel injector shop. 2 injector O-rings should replace the bushing. Actually, they are probably the same as the ones being used to rebuild the Ford 7.3 litre fuel bowl drain. I found a fuel pump supplier in Oklahoma is using that instead of the Mitsubishi grommets for higher psi fuel pumps. Google is your friend.

But hey, we know the hose works and I suspect that's what a lot of the pump suppliers are using.

I should know next week what the options are for folks.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:04 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer View Post
Yes thanks, I am pretty positive I know the Mitsubishi grommet is the one and I ordered it. I also have an option being worked on by a local diesel injector shop. 2 injector O-rings should replace the bushing. Actually, they are probably the same as the ones being used to rebuild the Ford 7.3 litre fuel bowl drain. I found a fuel pump supplier in Oklahoma is using that instead of the Mitsubishi grommets for higher psi fuel pumps. Google is your friend.

But hey, we know the hose works and I suspect that's what a lot of the pump suppliers are using.

I should know next week what the options are for folks.
Dang, I did not realize that you are so resourceful. We may just need to keep you around.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:37 AM   #20
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Dang, I did not realize that you are so resourceful. We may just need to keep you around.
and he's a very good tour guide.



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Old 08-11-2015, 12:51 PM   #21
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Very good writeup, I'll get it put in the tech section.
Good. Now it will be easy to find when I need it. Excellent tech write up, thanks!
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:02 PM   #22
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Mr. Hammer - Thanks for a great service write up. Great info. Also like how info. lingers and can be found later on this site. Great job. Thanks
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:45 PM   #23
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Fuel Pump Filter Cleaning

I have had my Fuel Pump out twice buy have yet to figure a way to back flush the large Main Filter. When I apply air pressure it is blocked by a check valve or maybe it is the Fuel Pressure Regulator?

I can force Air in the forward direction and managed to flush out considerable Dirt using Gas and Air Pressure and I hope this hasn't damaged the Filter.

My Fuel Pump continues to sing to me 50% of the time and I have tried Marvel Mystery Oil in the Tank to lube the Fuel Pump Motor to no effect.

Anybody succeeded back flushing the large Main Filter - if so how?

In any event I have purchased a complete low mileage Fuel Pump that someone advertized on this Forum and carry it with me -- it is not a lot of work to replace the Fuel Pump and the O-Ring can be re-used.

Northern Dancer,

Thanks,

Ron
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:32 AM   #24
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You might want to thoroughly read the 1st post in the thread. You can get a new fuel strainer here, http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-143892...2005-2009.html

By backflushing I assume you mean pulling the pump out, disassembling it as I have noted, step by step, removing and cleaning the fuel strainer. You can but I don't recommend it. I would replace the fuel strainer with a new one.

I am betting a lot of the whistling pumps are a result of those clogged fuel strainers making the pump work harder.
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:34 PM   #25
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I updated the 1st post listing the correct part# for the rubber grommet used. It is Mitsubishi MR431121. If you can Idaho, can you give us the size of the rubber hose used in your install.
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Old 08-13-2015, 03:05 PM   #26
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I tried to get answers on what some of the fuel pump suppliers are offering for the fuel hose used in their kits. 3 e-mails, no answers.

This is a quote from here, http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...html/kits.html

Quote:
If you need to put a piece of high pressure hose in your fuel tank, be sure it's rated for in-tank use. Your typical parts store high pressure EFI hose is only rated for outside the tank use [SAE J30R9]. That hose will turn to mush in no time. A six-inch piece of 5/16 high-pressure, in-tank hose made to Chrysler specs [not-quite-J30R10 spec] is $3.00.
If you need honest-to-goodness SAE J30R10 hose, that's gonna cost you a bit more. Your typical parts store will probably only have 1-ft pieces. We can cut you any length you want. The 5/16 ID J30R10 hose is $20.00 per foot or $1.75 per inch if you need less.
Does it really matter? I asked my local auto supplier and they said "absolutely". They did not have SAE J30R10 hose and did not want to sell me the hose rated for outside the tank, just as APE suggests, it will start to fall apart on the outside of the hose.

In my mind it's buyer beware and maybe check what an on-line pump suppler is selling in their kits. I am sticking with the Mitsubishi grommet.
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:25 AM   #27
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Good write up Hammer, and Bud.

It seems that all makes have some design or parts flaw. With the Harley it is the cheap INA bearings at the end of the cams. They've used that since the Evo single cam era. Junk. The VStroms have inferior front wheel bearings with mine grenading on the way back from my Dawson ride. The Rocket 3s had an output shaft bearing problem that required a very costly repair when they failed.

I was not aware of a fuel pump problem and now I'll have to find out what the problem with the steering stem bearing design is.
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:34 PM   #28
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There are no perfect bikes. The fuel pump is not so much flawed as Kawasaki wants to sell a complete assembly to you but the assembly is easy to maintain or simply replace readily available components. Those components should be available from Kawasaki like other parts. The components are actually Mitsubishi. I am willing to bet a lot of fuel pump failures are a result of clogged screens alone. The whistling fuel pump syndrome?

Maybe at some point they decided fuel in NA is so clean that a very small fuel strainer could handle it. That's not true and Ethanol is now added to the mix. That's causing problems with lots of bikes, cars and trucks.

I am close to posting a steering neck races and bearings replacement method
that I hope will help folks out.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:56 PM   #29
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That looks like the same pump as Polaris rangers plug in and all! I found that the aftermarket pump at orileys parts store for Japanese cars for 80 something bucks plugs right in with lifetime warranty. 20% of Polaris cost. Ive bought and changed 20 or more for costumers. polaris also says non serviceable
 
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Old 08-18-2015, 01:19 AM   #30
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Thanks NorthernDancer for this link. It explains a lot about how our fuel pumps work and why they fail.
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/195
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