Rear sprocket

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by gv550

42036

Ok wheel is off spacer is there and bearing is perfect really smooth with no movement. Don't know what's going on?

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by Newfie

Ok wheel is off spacer is there and bearing is perfect really smooth with no movement. Don't know what's going on?

Ok so my friend was here and checked the bearing and found side to side movement wow I could not find anything. But he said the bearing was really smooth spinning it but still a little side to side play. I called Kawi and there is a updated bearing for that hub and a two week wait crazy. How easy is it the get the bearing out of that hub do I need a new oil seal or dust seal too? Thanks

[gv550]

OK, glad you found it. With 2mm of axial play there had to be something worn, broken, missing.....
The seal needs to be removed and hard to do that without damaging it so best replace it. There is a snapring holding the bearing, and the bearing will be pressed into the hub. A proper bearing driver (30mm) and a bench press should push it out, and a larger driver to push the outer race back in will ensure you don't damage the new bearing.
I'm all for using only original Kawasaki parts when possible, but in this case they really are just off the shelf bearings and seals. Take the old ones to an industrial supply and they can match them up. Not sure what is new and improved about the Kawasaki bearing, the part description says 6206UUC3, 6206 is the size, UU is the type of seals, and C3 is the internal clearance.
Your call, waiting for the Kawasaki part is the safest bet.

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by gv550

OK, glad you found it. With 2mm of axial play there had to be something worn, broken, missing.....
The seal needs to be removed and hard to do that without damaging it so best replace it. There is a snapring holding the bearing, and the bearing will be pressed into the hub. A proper bearing driver (30mm) and a bench press should push it out, and a larger driver to push the outer race back in will ensure you don't damage the new bearing.
I'm all for using only original Kawasaki parts when possible, but in this case they really are just off the shelf bearings and seals. Take the old ones to an industrial supply and they can match them up. Not sure what is new and improved about the Kawasaki bearing, the part description says 6206UUC3, 6206 is the size, UU is the type of seals, and C3 is the internal clearance.
Your call, waiting for the Kawasaki part is the safest bet.

I will wait for the Kawi bearing and see if someone around here can press the bearing out and in. I still can't find no play in that old bearing and that what's driving me crazy now. Not to have all that movement in my pulley but my friend said there was a small amount. And I did go and get a new 6206 bearing at a local mining shop but there was play in the new one that's is why I went with the Kawi THANKS

[gv550]

Pouring rain here so I put my bike on the lift and removed the saddlebags, time to check tires, belt, brakes anyway.
I pulled and pushed on my pulley, there is no axial play that I can see. And this poor old bike has half a million kms on it, all original bearings in my pulley and wheels. I do replace my pulley seal and wheel seals regularly tho, my theory is bearings will last forever if kept free of dirt and water and the seals are the only defence against those enemies.

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by gv550

Pouring rain here so I put my bike on the lift and removed the saddlebags, time to check tires, belt, brakes anyway.
I pulled and pushed on my pulley, there is no axial play that I can see. And this poor old bike has half a million kms on it, all original bearings in my pulley and wheels. I do replace my pulley seal and wheel seals regularly tho, my theory is bearings will last forever if kept free of dirt and water and the seals are the only defence against those enemies.

Will I pulled the bearing out and put both new one that I got from mining shop and the old Kawi one in a vice and both have the same amount of side play by movng the middle part of the bearing that the tire bolt goes through. I just hope the new Kawi one don't do this.

[Snake Ranch]

Originally Posted by Newfie

Will I pulled the bearing out and put both new one that I got from mining shop and the old Kawi one in a vice and both have the same amount of side play by movng the middle part of the bearing that the tire bolt goes through. I just hope the new Kawi one don't do this.

How many miles are on your skoot? And what is the condition of the rubber shock absorbers inside the wheel? If they have lost their shape that would put more stress on that bearing to keep that pulley in alignment.

My skoot is a 2011 also. My wheel bearing part numbers are 6204 LU NTN. I think if you put a dial indicator on those parts they are always going to have a little axial movement. They are ball bearings. A tapered roller bearing or thrust bearing can manage both axis. A ball bearing only manages one axis so those rubber absorbers need to be in good shape. They help support that bearing.

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by Snake Ranch

How many miles are on your skoot? And what is the condition of the rubber shock absorbers inside the wheel? If they have lost their shape that would put more stress on that bearing to keep that pulley in alignment.

My skoot is a 2011 also. My wheel bearing part numbers are 6204 LU NTN. I think if you put a dial indicator on those parts they are always going to have a little axial movement. They are ball bearings. A tapered roller bearing or thrust bearing can manage both axis. A ball bearing only manages one axis so those rubber absorbers need to be in good shape. They help support that bearing.

39,624 km's on my skoot and the rubber shock absorbers look excellent. its my hub pulley bearing not the two wheel bearings I'm replacing.

[dlars]

There are rubber bushings/spacers. From the side of your bike you can grip your rear sprocket top and bottom then push on the top while pulling on the bottom. There will be a little bit of movement which is perfectly normal. I'm not sure if this is the movement you're talking about tho

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by dlars

There are rubber bushings/spacers. From the side of your bike you can grip your rear sprocket top and bottom then push on the top while pulling on the bottom. There will be a little bit of movement which is perfectly normal. I'm not sure if this is the movement you're talking about tho

yes that is the movement I am talking about. from push to pull I had 2mm of movement with a ruler on my rim to the edge of my pulley.

[dlars]

Originally Posted by Newfie

yes that is the movement I am talking about. from push to pull I had 2mm of movement with a ruler on my rim to the edge of my pulley.

I noticed that when I first got the bike. Coming from a shaft drive 1500 I was a bit concerned until I found out about the rubber bushings. I just check them every rear tire change to make sure there is no wear......then forget about em

[Newfie]

Originally Posted by dlars

I noticed that when I first got the bike. Coming from a shaft drive 1500 I was a bit concerned until I found out about the rubber bushings. I just check them every rear tire change to make sure there is no wear......then forget about em

my bushings are like new and when I pulled my hub from my rim the bushings are that tight that they come out with the hub. The movement is the same if I put the hub back on without the bushing in the rim.

[dlars]

Originally Posted by Newfie

my bushings are like new and when I pulled my hub from my rim the bushings are that tight that they come out with the hub. The movement is the same if I put the hub back on without the bushing in the rim.

I don't know what to tell you, I've never put mine on without the bushings. My gut feeling is that it's fine tho. I'm almost willing to bet the slight movement is still there after you replace the hub bearing as its just the way they are built. I checked out a Voyager and a Vaquero in the showroom....both do the same thing.

[Newfie]

Ok so I drove 3 and half hours today and picked up my new bearing. while at the Dealer I was talking to the mechanic there and telling him my story about the movement in the back pulley. He didn't think the bearing was the problem and that there will be movement in that pulley with them bearings. He also had a VOYAGER there for a oil change and checked the pulley on that one and it was the same as the movement in mine. So this was a waste of time and money for me. I was telling him about the whining noise comimg from my belt and he never had much input other then what I was doing. so i got everything back the way i did before i replaced the bearing with the right side adjuster almost ahead one full notch.

[smokier]

Originally Posted by Newfie

... so i got everything back the way i did before i replaced the bearing with the right side adjuster almost ahead one full notch.

Is it better? Noise is gone or less? ? ?

Ride safe,
Smokier