Can Anyone Help with This???

[macmac]

Claytyon, I am surprised this hasn't occured before to lots of us. The steps are:

Pull the left side engine cover, and the floor board.

Buy a 1/2" Fender Washer and get someone to grind a screw driver cut to remove the window plug on the inner side cover, that shows the F mark and the R mark.

Remove that plug and the one in the center too.

Pull the spark plugs on the left side only.

Be sure the key switch is not ON!

With a helper if need be turn the engine by hand with a 17mm socket COUNTER CLOCK WISE, with a finger in #1 plug hole, to 'feel' compression building under yer finger. As that hyappens and the F mark shows in the window it's safe to pull the tensioner.

Do just that tensioner / extender work.

Once that is done, and you are ready to do cly #2 turn the engine CCW again, this time feeling #2 for compression.

Note: you will see the F mark and the R mark appear everyother time, but that time there won't be compression
. When there has been no compression and the F or R mark show in the window, IT IS NOT SAFE to pull the tensioners!

[Netnorske]

I feel like I really dodged a bullet here. I had mine done at about 30k (45k now). I had the guys at my MC shop do my cam chain extenders. Dropped them off a set of extenders (from Chuckster) and a printed copy of the directions on how to change them out. All went well. When I picked up the bike, they gave me the old pieces they had removed. I'm shocked that given how many people have done this mod that something like this has not happened before...!

[Idaho]

So, ignorance really is bliss......

What I do know is that mine are done. Have been since last spring.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by Netnorske

I feel like I really dodged a bullet here. I had mine done at about 30k (45k now). I had the guys at my MC shop do my cam chain extenders. Dropped them off a set of extenders (from Chuckster) and a printed copy of the directions on how to change them out. All went well. When I picked up the bike, they gave me the old pieces they had removed. I'm shocked that given how many people have done this mod that something like this has not happened before...!

I have done these before too, and had no idea I was playin' Russian Roulett'.

All it takes to go wrong, is to have the valve springs push the cam either way, to 'settle the cam.

This settling happens to car techs when timing belts and or valve lash must be set, BUT the chains usually can't hop any teeth, even when the chain is pretty worn.

The cam gear teeth are the smallest teeth I have ever seen so far, on any vehicals.

I have no idea if the valves can hit the pistons or not..... Some engines can not no matter what. My B 21 Volvo Engine can not no matter what. The next B 30 engine will smash and bash metal to hell in a hand basket when a timing belt breaks, or when an error is made and the engine is not turned by hand to find out IF there has been a error made.

I do suspect the Vulcans are smash and bash engines if the time gets out bad enough. Bdawg might know.....

[tomm]

Well, all the assorted gaskets, o-rings, plugs and miscellaneous parts are now here, and everything is cleaned up. Tomorrow, Mac is coming back down for the day and we begin putting things back together. We'll just have to see how far we can get. Hoping there isn't any hidden damage that we won't find out about until it is all back together and I start it. I'm pretty comfortable doing mechanical work, but got to admit, pulling that rocker case off is a little scary. At least we didn't need to pull the head or change the chain guide. Glad that Mac is local.

Attached are a few pictures of the cam chain and related assemblies. Pretty easy to see how valve settling might cause the camshaft to turn and slip the chain when the tensioner is out, as there really isn't anything preventing it. As Mac noted, the teeth on that gear are pretty small.

BTW, I also see now why Mac doesn't recommend 20W50 oil on these bikes. Those screens that feed the HLA's really are tiny.

Anyway, wish us luck.

[Top Cat]

And there are guys on here who wonder why I take my bike to the dealer for service. I asked my mechanic if he had heard of the chain extenders and he said he had put in a few. I liked hearing that.
As I said earlier, if i lived anywhere near mac he would be doing all my mechanical work.

[tomm]

Originally Posted by Top Cat

And there are guys on here who wonder why I take my bike to the dealer for service. I asked my mechanic if he had heard of the chain extenders and he said he had put in a few. I liked hearing that.
As I said earlier, if i lived anywhere near mac he would be doing all my mechanical work.

I think this problem could happen to anyone, including a dealer, unless they take the extra step of making sure that the cylinder is at TDC compression before pulling a tensioner. In fact, I wonder if it hasn't actually happened to others without them realizing it, although maybe not as many teeth. There was a recent post about poor gas mileage after doing the extenders. Maybe that chain slipped a tooth or two. I think any significant change in performance after doing extenders ought to raise some suspicion. Big advantage of a dealer is if they screw it up, they own the repair. Agreed having Mac around is the best solution.

Anyway, after a solid eight hours of work today, we hit the starter and she fired right up. Mac ran it up to 5K rpm without a miss. Sounded nice and smooth.

Still have a bit of work to do with cable and harness routing, trim, checking torque, installing the intake, etc, but it is mostly back together and running. Time to celebrate.

Thanks again Mac!!!!!

[Netnorske]

Wow....great news...!

[Ramakill]

Sure is great news!! Though I am interested in what oil Mac recommends if not 20W50. Most guys here in Aus use Motul 5100 (10W50). The oils you guys in the US always talk about for your 1600s are not available here.

[tomm]

Originally Posted by Ramakill

Sure is great news!! Though I am interested in what oil Mac recommends if not 20W50. Most guys here in Aus use Motul 5100 (10W50). The oils you guys in the US always talk about for your 1600s are not available here.

I'll let Mac fill in the blanks next time he is able to get on line, but I know he thinks the 50 weight starves the HLA's. The filter screens are really fine as well as the ports that feed them. So nothing more than 40. I personally use the Rotella T6 synthetic, which is 5W40.

[ponch]

Originally Posted by tomm

I'll let Mac fill in the blanks next time he is able to get on line, but I know he thinks the 50 weight starves the HLA's. The filter screens are really fine as well as the ports that feed them. So nothing more than 40. I personally use the Rotella T6 synthetic, which is 5W40.

Oh no an oil thread....

Mobil 1 10w-40 motorcycle oil works well.

[Loafer]

It's a shame Bill can't get on more. Hi Bill! Hope everything is Ok.

[ringadingh]

Thats great that Bill got you back up and running. Its rare that it will jump a tooth, but at least there is no damage. I'm guessing that the valves cant hit the pistons on our bikes.

[Bigtrain]

Wow after reading this thread I have to agree that Mac is one heck of a mechanic! Nice work, and I think it is very cool to help to one of our members.