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03-21-2017, 09:09 AM | #32 |
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I quit using Rotella t6 , now use Dino oil, Valvoline 10-40.
Synthetic oil, may have caused my leakage problems I was told by some?
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03-21-2017, 09:36 AM | #33 |
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The term synthetic generally refers to Group III+, Group IV, and certain Group V base oils. However, because the term ‘synthetic’ is based on performance rather than chemistry, there is no all-encompassing group of base oil that is called synthetic.
From here, http://rotella.shell.com/products/pc-11.html bingo** it's the new FA class with the moly? (FA-4) the 4 refers to diesel oil, the F is new but only is F to distinguish difference from C when calling on the phone, the A refers to the 1st in this new F class. The new FA-4 engine oils will be offered in lower viscosity grades and are designed primarily for next-generation engines to help maximize fuel economy without sacrificing engine protection. according to my eyes, that there where it says to help maximuze fuel economy spells moly? so it's the new jugs that have FA-4 on them that contains more moly? if so, then if a shell jug does not say FA-4, you're good?
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03-21-2017, 09:41 AM | #34 |
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did you see there what shell says? there is no all-encompassing group of base oil that is called synthetic?
synthetic my ass, that T6 5w40 synthetic is not 'synthetic' , it's highly refined dino oil, what a bunch of word twisters.
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03-21-2017, 10:00 AM | #35 |
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Getting back on subject,
Skip all the technical BS , I just want to know what to look for on the jug that makes the T6 I have OK to use in my bike.
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03-21-2017, 10:10 AM | #36 |
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I think, (I could be wrong so don't shoot me on this but,) if the T6 jug is missing the new FA-4 class on the back, you're good, if it says FA-4 next to the CK-4 then I think it has more moly, like i said don't shoot me cause I am leaning just like you.
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03-21-2017, 10:14 AM | #37 |
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but even if it does say CK-4/FA-4, someone said on here to screw it, put it in and ride, and if you get clutch slipping, just go back to using something else, like kawasaki brand oil?
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03-21-2017, 12:15 PM | #38 |
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Thank You degreaser, that is all I wanted to know.
Simple and to the point, I like that
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03-21-2017, 03:13 PM | #39 |
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03-21-2017, 03:22 PM | #40 |
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03-22-2017, 09:14 AM | #41 |
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here's what I think (so beware, but) Shell Rotella T6 5w40 with API CJ-4 is OK, and T6 with CK-4 is OK, and all of Shell Rotella T4 15w40 is OK, but there is a big question mark on the new T6 5w40 marked with the API FA-4, I think it's the new FA-4 on the jug that is causing the confusion, the CK-4 is fine but the FA-4 on the T6 needs more research before using it. If the shell jug does not have FA-4 you're good to use it. From what I found out is FA-4 is a new classification for the new diesel engines to take advantage of increased performance on those new motors, I would be hesitant to use FA-4 in my bike.
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03-22-2017, 10:04 AM | #42 |
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Personally I'm tired of trying to figure all this out to save a couple bucks. I found some Motul full synthetic motorcycle oil, which is highly regarded on the racing circuits, on Amazon for 32.00 a gallon. If I can't afford to spend ten bucks more than Rotella costs for an oil change every 4000 miles I probably can't afford gas to fill the tank.
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03-22-2017, 10:26 AM | #43 |
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Forget about gasoline and motorcycle oil, because some of the Hell's Angel bikers are now wondering what they are going to look like when Electric Harley's are mainstream and they're zooming down the highway sounding like Singer sowing machines going HUMMMM and they are yelling out 'Look at me now Ma, I'm a real biker Now'
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03-22-2017, 01:43 PM | #44 | |
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Quote:
I like the Rotella T-6 and want to continue using it as long as they didn't screw it up.
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03-22-2017, 02:34 PM | #45 |
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That's easy, look on the back of the jug it should say JASO-MA and JASO MA2.
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