Steering head, swing arm and drive line

[bebop]

I've been reading some of the posts regarding the lack of grease in the steering head bearing, swing arm bushings, and drive line splines and thought I should consider a little preventive maintanance. The problem is a minimum of mechanical skills coupled with a concern over the job being done properly at the dealer (as well as the cost).
I can just see me taking it all apart (the easy part) and then not being able to get it back together correctly and not to mention the inability to ride it somewhere to fix the mess I made.
So my first set of questions are:
1. Is there any one who lives in or close to the Jacksonville, Fl area that has the skills and is willing to help me through the proceedures? I would like to learn how to do the work myself.
or
2. Does anyone know of a Kawasaki dealer in or near my area that they would give a good recommendation?

Cheers!

[Cajunrider]

Bebop, I am in exactly the same predicament you are in. I have the downloaded service manual and have read the swingarm/driveline sections and still don't feel very confident in doing it myself. I am going to wait until 10,000 - 11,000 miles when my rear tire needs replacing and get Motorcycle Specialties in Houma, LA to do the whole 9 yards for me. This is an independent dealer (Paul Miller) who has raced motorcycles all of his life. He is in his 60's now so his experience level is very high. He has 3 very experienced techs in his shop who are all very good at their trade and are all very trustworthy. They get most of the service instead of the local dealerships because of the trust and skill factor. Their price on the Avon Cobra 180/70-16 is around $100 higher than what I can get it for online before shipping. I will buy my tire and dyanbeeds and let them mount it and service the driveline and swingarm. I will also get them to check the steering head bearings. I don't have a jack yet or a torque wrench but will purchase them soon and get a little braver as time goes on. I just worry about doing something wrong and killing myself and my wife because of a failure. Do any of you guys think waiting for the rear tire change is too long?

[ringadingh]

I understand how you may feel intimidated by the tasks youve mentioned if you have never done them before, but once you do it Im sure youll agree that its not that difficult to do yourself, providing you have a jack and some basic tools. Having done all the maintenance myself I find the Nomad to be a rather nice bike to work on compared to others. Gadgets sight has lots of info and pics on how to do the greasing of forks and driveshafts. Plus if you still get in a jam there is lots of help available here to talk you through it.
The very first time I used ebay, it was to buy a part for my old Suzuki from Paul Miller, he was a decent guy to deal with. Im sure he would do a fine job if you go that route. Although at your low mileage its unlikely that anything is wrong, sometimes experienced eyes can notice things that a novice will not see.

[redeye]

One thing I might note is, don't worry about the steering stem bearing. It takes the same amount of labor to replace the bearings as to have them serviced. From what I've read, they have a service life of about 75,000 miles, give or take. I did do my swing arm & drive line a couple of weeks ago, but I will not do the stem bearings until they need replacing. Then I will add grease & will be set for life.

As to swing arm & drive line service I used "Gadget's" instructions & only opened the Clymer's manual to find the torque values when reassembling the bike. It looks & reads complicated, but the job is fairly easy once you start.

[bebop]

Sorry it took so long to get back. I've been having a problem getting past the home page to the posts.
I have a jack and some tools including a torque wrench so unless there is someone close by I will print out some of the instructions I found here and give it a try in the next couple of months when I have a few uninterupted days.
I have another post with a different concern about the recent louder and lower than usual sound at idle when the engine sounds just like a diesel engine. I may take that problem in to the dealer to see what they have to say about it unless there is other advice from here. So far my knowledge and experience is limited to bolting on a few parts, changing the oil, and tightening my nuts.

Cheers!

[rewindgy]

The only problem with waiting til you need new steering head bearings is my 06 had "NO" grease and @ 22,000km they were ready to lock up! Now we were coming back from Sturgis and it had been raining so the only lubrication was the rain / rust in the lower bearing. The front end just started to get stiff and then the last 150 miles or so home it got notchy! My boss just did the swingarm / shock bearings grease and all splines and his were the same as mine ( no grease). He is tempted to just put a zerk in the steering head but I am trying to convince him that you can't really confirm both bearings are fully greased until you manually put the grease on them! He zerked the swingarm.
The swingarm / driveline work is not all that complicated! If you can take a rear tire off with confidence then the rest is not really hard - just take your time - record where all parts came from ( if you need too) - download the Gadget's information - make sure you have a Torgue wrench and some proper hand tools. On a side note boss is not too handy and it took him 3 hours to complete the rear section.

[fish]

Hey Bebop, It sounds like we are in the same boat. I rather be safe then sorry.

[Cajunrider]

I spoke with Mike at Motorcycle Specialties in Houma a little while ago and was quoted 2 - 2 1/2 hours of labor to mount the rear Avon Cobra, clean and grease the driveline, check the brake pads, and service the swingarm. This is at $75 / hr. He said I would be looking at $150 - $200 labor. He told me to buy the tire I found for $179 because he will pay more for it from his distributor. I don't think that is too bad for quality professional service and peace of mind. They will service the steering bearings when they replace my front tire at around 15,000 - 16,000 miles.

[bebop]

I'll have to check into an independent shop not far from me to see how they compare to those prices. I could probably watch while they do the work and then learn for the next time. The cost of tuition. Wouldn't be able to do that at the dealer. They are mainly a motocross outfit but the shop manual and/or the directions and pictures from KawaNOW posts should provide them with any special tips specific for the Classic. That is if I don't try it on my own first. Thanks,

Cheers!

[macmac]

To bad to put into labor the costs of a good tool.. The factory book is about what glue, lube and torque things take, and assumes you know How To.

Around here you can get pretty good how to..

I don't want to raise a lot of wasted text though.

I will say that a lift is something you must have, and the bike should have the ft brake ties lifting. Then is any tire is being removed which ever tire is staying on the bike should be blocked.

Both tires weigh so much that when there isn't that weight anymore the lift could tip over to which ever wheel is still in place with out much trouble!.. That would be bad..

If any one wants i can walk a step by step pretty much some time.. for the rear.. I haven't yet done the front waiting for tire time...

I have some pretty bad pics from last time but there are better other pics on another sight not mine. One opic there I don't agree with what was done much but that was that guys choice.

[Cajunrider]

Mac, I know these people good enough to where they may let me watch them do the work. This would build my confidence up enough to tackle it myself. I'm not too bad mechanically, I'm just a little insecure about doing something that could result in tragedy if I goof up and forget something. All of the other routine stuff I'm OK with like oil changes, anti freeze replacement, clutch and brake fluid change outs. But the bigger stuff intimidates me. Thanks for the advice though.

[macmac]

Its just nuts and bolts, and grease!... You take off a lot of crap and keep takin it off, till it's off there's nuthin real tech to it.. Wipe off the old mung and add new grease here and there.

Lets see... Tell me where you have a problem, and i will go the long way. Can't tell what exhaust you have..

From memory..

remove saddle bags
saddle bags frames
both seats
both saddle baggs crash bars
All V&H exhaust (need 2 new gaskets)
Remove stock mufflers
remove goat bladder
Crack loose the rear axel nut
Lift bike
Tie the bike to the lift with ratchet straping
lock lift

tie ft brake
block ft tire
drain out the gear oil
remove rear caliper and stuff it with cardboard
hang the caliper anyway you want. (support the flex line)
remove rear caliper support
remove rear axel noting the spacer
clean the spacer and set it aside
Wiggle off the rear wheel and drop it out of the way (I sit on the floor with my knees supporting the tire because it weighs more than a 3rd my weight.
Remove gear box side shock
Remove gear box
remove the big rear axel spacer and note how it goes

Get a big box, bucket, blocks anything that size lighter in weight, and shove it under the swing arm.

crack loose the swingarm bolt
remove the lower last rear shock bottom
Rotate the swing arm down
remove the shock totally
remove the long swing arm bolt
lower the swing arm onto the bucket as much as you can with no force

(The rubber boot at the tranny will hold the swingarm in place a bit)

Peel the boot back to the tranny
turn the drive shaft by hand and locate the apx 3/16" pin hole

stuff the tranny housing with clean rags
With a nail set (common punch for carpenters) depress the pin deeper into the hole

slip the drive shaft out, and watch for that pin and controll it.

Lower the swing arm to the bucket
With needled mose pliers pull the pin out, clean it and stick to duct tape in a safe place

Free the 2 brake line clips that are open

DO NOT cut any other brake line clips and rotate the swing arm 90 degrees
with draw the drive shaft easy and don't go knocking the U joint hard side to side while you do it.

Set down the drive shaft

Wipe clean all splines and seals

With draw by prying the swing arm seals.

With a 1/2" dowel push out the spacers and remove each one alone and set them down

Look at the bearings in each end of the swing arm and see these are still clean, if not clean them. Do not remove them, and stuff a clean rag in each place.

Clean every spline again, and all seals
Inspect the U Joint be sure it moves freely in each possible pane of movement
Clean the drive shaft and grease the ends
Clean the swing arm inside and out in the drive shaft tube
Clean the rear gear box at all seals, splines and the 4 studd face
IF there is a shim don't bend it If there is a shim and it is stuck leave it alone, just clean it.

clean the swing arm spacers grease them
add more grease where they go

Install the 3 spacers the big one goes in the middle

Clean the shock top bearing and grease them
clean the rubber boot leaving it on the tranny

Insert the drive shaft to the drive shaft tube

Raise the swing arm and block it up, smear a dob og grease on the drive shaft upper plines in the fitting and on the tranny out pot spline.

Install that pin, and press it down, slipping on the drive shaft
replace the boot like it was

Install the swing arm long bolt loose

grease the lower shock mont with a thin fim of grease and install it leaving the nuts loose
Install the lower eye onto the swing arm leaving that nut loose

Install the gear box at the 4 acorn nuts after dobbing anti seize on the 4 studds, and smearing a thin film of grease on the facing flange

Install the this shock which also supports the gear box loose
Go around and reinsert the brake line in the 2 clips

Torque all of these to be spec

Start the long axel bolt and add a film of grease to it
Grease the this side big spacer and hang it on the axel

Grease the wheel hub splin on the gear box.

Sitting on the floor on the gear box side roll the wheel under the bike and lift it with you knees. Turn and roate the wheel untill it locks onto the splines

Still holding it with your knees and one hand push tha axel bolt In most of the way, when it stops you stop

Get up and go install the other spacer on the axel and push the axel in all the way
Install the axel nut loose
spin the wheel
Snug the axel
Spin the wheel
install new gear oil apx 6 oz not 6.2 oz...

Install which ever exhaust you have

Lower the bike and torque the axel

Raise the bike if you wish and install everything else


So whats hard to do?

I take off more items than I have too, because i don't like scratching things and or having them in my way to trip over.

All that might take a extra 15 minutes if that

[Cajunrider]

Mac, Either you've done this a hundred times or you have one heck of a memory, or both. Thanks for the detailed directions. I will copy and paste this as a Word file and save it. I suppose you could do this job blindfolded.....

[bebop]

Mac,

Thanks for the instructions with the additional practical tips. Makes them more valuable than just a set of book instructions.
I have these saved too.

Cheers!

[macmac]

No just once, but then I was a foreign car mechanic before computers, then in the early days of computers, and got sick of it in 85, and quit, but maintain all my stuff no matter what it is.

When I did this I had seen most of it done once before, at that time I had 3 broken ribs. So I didn't really do anything other than watch.

When I did my 06 alone it was me and the book, just like you guys but all I need the book for is specs. I have tools since any mechanics must have their own tools, unless you work for Sears, and maybe other quick fix it muffler shops.

Most people have no idea a shop tech owns his tools. ALL of them..

What helps me remember is I had these pics taken to help guys like you.
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll275/Mac_Muz/Nomad/

These are just not good pics... That pin I mentioned is stuck to duct tape though, and the bucket things can be seen.

I forgot that there is a plate the rear crash bar mounts to which should be loosened, just to make installing the rear crash bar easier, so no bolts get cross threaded..

Better picture made by someone I don't know are here
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/.... 2-22-07-a.html

I disagree with the swing arm placed on the floor, because he cut parts you don't need to cut. But I can't take away from the quality of his pictures any.

There was just no sence in cutting the brake line clips, there was no real gain in time, or service..

When I did this I started things on one day, and it went over into the next day since i was also installing a new rear tire by hand.

I used 3 tire spoons, and a apple crate to do that.. I have air right here too, which helps seat tires, but other wise that and cleaning are it on bikes.... I might blow off crud, but I never use air tools on bikes because the hose is just too much in the way.

I never use air tools to INSTALL things on bikes either..

I don't use air tools to install much on cars and trucks either..

I might use a low psi air ratchet to wind in cylinder head bolts to be maybe 10 foot pounds to speed things up, after assuring myself the threads are started, or maybe run a pointed for crap GM self tapping body bolt in with one, but i won't on anything that matters and to me bikes matter, and getting fast has gotta mean you are a supposed shop tech and earning a pay check.

Let me assure you, getting things done in a speedy way is just not something anyone should do on a bike.

I tend to wipe off a tool before I use it on a bike and I tend to keep wiping it off over and over again each time I get to the next fastener. I try to not marr the finish on nuts and bolts and sometimes will stuff rags in sockets to protect the chrome.

No shop tech has time to do that. I cover all paint with a rags and sometimes secure the rags with twine, so they don't fall on the floor, and pick up crap that will marr paint and chrome.

I look at each part of disassem,bly as a the unit it is, and not a over all wow thats a lot of work.

I just concentrate on the smaller aspects.. Get the seats off and out of my way.... Put them somewhere safe.. put the bolts in a cut off 2 liter bottle bottom with the seats or in a smalll box..

Look at the hard ware! It matters so you can put it back...

All the time people pluck out the hard ware grab the part they wants and can't find the hard ware, OR disciover a bolt is long and the other is short! LOOK first! All it takes is a seconds time..

In my day when I was GOOD, I was... I could do a Volvo clutch in 45 minutes. I did use some air to take things APART..

No lift just a jack and stands, no help and be out the door on a test in 45 minutes.. I knew every part by heart to do that..

I took exactly the tools for each part of the job and not one tool more.

I even had the boss man yell at me once to stop messin around as I lowered a volvo I just finished the clutch on. I just grinned in his face and backed the car out leaving the parts in a neat pile exposed. I went on my test ride to the beach and spent my lunch time there and a little more time there, because I just earned 8 flat rate hours.... The Boss man was burnt, by me doing that, but then he needed me to earn his pay.. So I knew he couldn't do more than yell when I got back! Ho Ho Ho...