Cobra Spotlights not working

[socwkbiker]

This afternoon I noticed that my spotlights are not working. I checked the switch and it was in the right position, I checked the fuses and they were all ok. I opened the right light and took a look at the bulb, but it still looked intact.

I do have auxiliary led's under the tank, under the saddlebags and on the frame. When I came outside this afternoon for a break, I noticed the auxiliary lights were on. At times, this has caused my battery to run down and need to be charged, especially if I leave them on overnight. I put all that info as a "could this have caused my spots to go out?"

Any info will be greatly appreciated.

[ringadingh]

Test the switch to see if its working, sometimes the contacts inside them fry.

[cactusjack]

It is highly unlikely both lamps crapped out simultaneously, so you need to look at what they have in common. Check the connection, check the fuse (remove it and put a meter on it), check the switch. Check all splices, too.

[Todd]

Jeff, I know this is probably a silly question, but are your spots wired to be on all the time (with low and high beams on?). If they are only on with low beam, double check that your headlamp switch is in that position. Trying to prepare for this trip I have been a little paranoid over every little thing and sometimes the obvious is overlooked.

I think that bar grounds through the mount, but if not, with both out at one time, I would make sure you have a solid ground for the light bar.

Other than that you will just need to go to the point where the power stops in the circuit...either the fuse, the switch, or at the load.


Had another thought.....I don't how that bar ships as far as the connection wires, but make sure you don't have a double fused circuit and there is another in-line fuse on the positive feed to your lightbar (probably in the headlamp bucket).

Do you know if they wired your bar directly to the signal lamp or lamp circuit,or did they use a relay???

If it is wire directly, then there may be an inline fuse in the headlamp bucket ( I doubt it after looking online at the install directions though) ......if it is a relay circuit, it is quite possible that the relay went bad (I just replaced mine because it would hesitate to trip when first started in the morning). Also if wired directly and all other lamps are working, you definitely have something in just the spotlight circuit.

Call me tomorrow if you get into it and need to run something by me.

[Todd]

OK, third thought....I just read the install instructions for the Cobra lightbar....

I can't remember who you had install that (I think I remember you took it to a dealer and would bet a buck that they wire straight to the circuit and did not use a relay), but it ships with quick-splice connectors....they are not the most reliable and I usually prefer to actually splice wire..... If the dealer that installed your bar used the quick-splices, another possibility is that one of the quick-splice connectors has lost contact with the actual copper in the power supply wire and is just hanging on to the insulation....double check those badboys.

[macmac]

Geese I hope there is a relay and that this isn't straight wired thru the Ignition switch!

Anyway get a ice pick looking test light at wallyworld for 4 bucks and use it!

If that fails send me them lights!

[radco]

I ll add my 2 cents,, as stated get a volt meter. Test Hot to ground.Frame/Bolt etc.. If you have voltage you may have a broken ground,and as stated check all connections.. I have mine on a relay to be on with Low beam,(Law in some states) BUT looks cool when you flash someone :)

[VulcanE]

Like CJ said. I have had blown fuses that just to look at them, they looked good, but when you checked them with the meter, they were bad. When the H3 bulbs blow, they don't look like it (none of mine have anyway), but the meter will tell you. Like Todd and Mac said, test the connections with the "ice pick" looking circuit tester.

[macmac]

I use the test light, which has no internal battery for fast and dirty is there power or not, and the meters for when I need to see volts.

I carry one of each anytime i ride or drive anything, and so the 4 dollar test light and a 17 dollar digital meter are in every vehical I own.

I use these for me, but perhaps more often on broken down cars i happen upon.

With the meter and any 12 volt vehical I can do just about any tests I want, from reading a battery to a charging system and tell which part is the bad part on the spot.

Testing a older battery on a older Nomad is a cake walk with this cheap meter.

All you do is pull the plug wires so the engine can't start, hook the meter to the battery, and with the key ON crank the start motor counting for 10 seconds on a watch.

If the reading is lower than 10.5 volts the battery would make a better boat anchor.

I have another type meter also from walley world in each vehical counting my nomad. This one simply plugs into a lighter socket.

I can see the bike is charging day and night, and since in the season I just leave it in place and turned on. I use a 1.5 amp Shumaker autofloat charger any time the bike is not ridden..

In winter the battery is on that charger in the cellar ALL the tme. Being of Scot decent means i am a cheap skate, and so I expect my oem battery to be good in year 8.

[barrynfla]

mac.......I trust your judgement so I went online looking for a Schumacher autofloat charger and found them at about $35 bucks or so. Just out of curiousity I went to Wally World this evening to see what they had and, lo and behold, they had the same charger for $19.44!! That's even less than a Battery Tender, Jr. Thanks for the tip on this charger!! I have it hooked up to the 3-year old battery in my '06 900 and this might save me from buying a new battery.

Barry

[macmac]

I am far from ompressed with the battery tender junior model with 750 miliamps out put. That is 1/2 amp. With a new battery it will do, but could take 20 + hours to get the job done.

I never did go on line to search Shumaker, it was a tip from some other cheap skate, and I read the info sheet, plus I know a few things....

One thing I know is any bike battery rated at 18 Ah or less is dying o0n the shelf once active and not in use. At night and not in use is time spent dying, of death by sulfation.

Not all batterys are equal see.... We don't get 1,100 CCA (cold cranking amps) like in car and lt truck batterys, which die iof the same thing but it takes apx 3 years to do it.

An 18 Ah battery can be dead, like boat anchor dead in 90 days. The gel battery MNomads get is a lot better than that, but just the same a 20 dollar charger can make them last as long as possible. The fee to run juice from the wall isn't much so long as that green light is on...

The green light means the charger isn't really working.... It is, but not much, and has reduced the out put to nearly El Zip... I doubt it costs 2 cents a day to run the shumaker on a 1/2 decent battery.

The OEM battery is a keeper to my way of thinking too, untill a new one is needed.. about 8 years as I see things, and then Odessy (sp) make more sence....