Splitting the case

[cocheese72]

Has anyone split the engine case? How many hours would this entail doing it for the first time? Does Kawasaki sell a complete gasket fit to cover everything, or do you need to buy them all separate? If going in for the tranny, what else would you do while it is open.

Bike has 35k miles.

[cactusjack]

First thing I'd do is buy a factory service manual, if you don't already have one.

[blowndodge]

If it were me and I was going to do all that I can assure you that motor would be putting out a lot more ponies when it's put back in.

[MAS Tequila]

PM sent

[AlabamaNomadRider]

I have a question. Why are you doing this when the bike only has 35,000 miles on it?

[ringadingh]

Thats not a job for the timid, and you will most likely require a few special tools as well. Good Luck on the project.

[Jared]

Take LOTS of pics! I'd love to see how it is all done!

[anchornomad]

Gene's question is a good one. Will be interesting to see the answer at such a relatively low mileage.?? Good post and curious to know the answer. Den

[MAS Tequila]

I talked to him this evening.

It sounds like he has a bent shift fork. He's experiencing the dread first to second shift issues associated with a bent fork.

MT

[Jared]

How does this happen?

[MAS Tequila]

Originally Posted by Utah Motorcyclist

How does this happen?

Scenario 1:

During heavy acceleration, (for whatever reason), the 1-2 shift is made HARD, under load, and/or without using the clutch lever. The dogs hit each other without dropping in, and something's gotta give!
This single bad shift causes the shift fork to bend.

Immediate result, the bike never goes fully into 2nd gear, EVER AGAIN! The long term effect is that the drive dogs (integral to the gear) wear down what should be straight contact surfaces into a stepped, or tapered surface with rounded corners. These surfaces then become subtle ramps, which encourage the tranny to drop down to neutral. Remember, the tranny is never going completely into second, (until the shift fork is replaced), so each time the dogs slip, they wear worse.

Scenario 2:

Neutral finders work great in that they help you find neutral easily, but as a result the 1-2 shift is a bit longer and more complicated than other shifts. The 1-2 shift needs to be firm (not hard), and complete.... Under normal usage, the shift to 2nd is incomplete due to a weak shift, or the shifter is accidentally bumped when 2nd is already engaged. The immediate result is an unplanned down shift. At this point, the shift fork is NOT bent, but the gear's drive dogs have begun to wear that "tapered" pattern into the drive surfaces (see scenario 1). Each time the 1-2 shift is missed, or partial, the dogs gradually wear more. Eventually the bike will not stay in second, unless a load is applied. Once the throttle is twisted, those "ramps" (now an inclined plane, in engineering terms), convert straight shear loading to thrust loading, and the gear drops to neutral...
IOW, on acceleration, the ramps force the gear out of engagement.

In this case the shift fork may be just fine, but the gears will have to be replaced.



I suspect that #2 is what causes most of the Vulcan failures.

In either case, the problem feeds on itself.

An incomplete shift results in worn dogs, which then drop out, necessitating anther incomplete shift, which wears the dogs more....



Morals to these long, convoluted stories..........


1. Never shift gears without using the clutch lever, and back off the throttle for a split second during the shift.


2. If you insist on skipping the clutch lever, be sure to time the throttle blip, so that the gears are NOT under load.


3. Never power shift the 1-2 range, by kicking the shifter with all the strength you have. If firm pressure doesn't shift it, DON'T FORCE IT.


4. Never allow yourself to get a lazy ankle, and do a weak or incomplete 1-2 shift. If you suspect that shift was incomplete, pull in the clutch lever, and shift up/down again.


5, If you find that you accidentally bump the shift levers while cruising (toe or heel), change SOMETHING ergonomically. Change shoes, or riding posture.... Move the shift levers up/down at the splines, or even remove the heal shifter.



Now,

I expect I'll hear from folks who will say that bikes CAN be safely shifted without the use of the clutch lever, and they're right. Racers do it all the time, and don't typically suffer from bent forks or worn dogs. MOF, the clutches last longer when it's done right.


Vulcans can be safely shifted without the lever too, but the throttle timing must be near perfect.
HOWEVER, ask yourself this......

Is the .002 second decreased shift time worth trashing a fork, gears and a complete tear down, not to mention parts costs? Some drag racers would say "yes, anything for better E.T.s"... If so, be prepared to pay.

Me, I'll keep using the clutch lever.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

You did a great job explaining what the likely causes are. That really helps a lot. I know when I drove an 18 wheeler I never used the clutch pedal unless I was stopping. Of course the RPM's had to be just right to do it. Better to use the clutch lever when shifting our bikes. I figured it could be done just like a truck but have never ventured to try it.

[dennis49]

I agree with not shifting without the clutch on this bike. This is the first bike that I have never shifted in this manner due to the shifting issues it has. This is also why I do not let anyone ride this bike. I have alot of heavy footed friends and the first thing they would do is power shift to see what the bikes got. With the right power timing and lever pressure the Nomad can shift from 1 -2 as smooth as any but this takes practice.

[ringadingh]

Thats why I like using the heel shifter, I find that it shifts into 2nd and the other gears as well a lot easier with minimal stress on the shifter assembly. There is no reason to pound hard on the shifter, and by timing your shift with the rpms they will shift smoothly and effortless.

[macmac]

I agree with MAS and use the lever.

Most guys that don't clutch either have un-limited funds, or a crew to swap out engine/trannies as the case may be.

It's easy to to 'soft' shift (incomplete) on Nomads, and I have done that sometimes. I do exactly what MAS says clutch again and shift up a moment and shift back down.

I am being a little lazy when that happens, doddling around not really riding.