Say no to Synthetic oil!

[blowndodge]

Originally Posted by Top Cat

Ran T-6 in my 2007 for 88,000 miles and my 2008 for 50,000 miles, no problems.
Running it in my 2011 Victory now, I will continue to use it.

Me too Tim. 50K miles

[Top Cat]

Originally Posted by degreaser

If you do want to use Rotella 5w40, don't leave it in too long, because the additive package that keeps it a 40 weight when hot breaks down quickly churning in the transmission rendering it quickly to a 5 weight oil

How long is too long
I change every 5,000 miles and have for the 3 bikes I mentioned earlier.
Again, no problems.

[radco]

My 2cents! I used 100% Synthetic in my bikes and cars for years no issue's! BUT agree you will sometimes use synthetic more the regular oil ! Not burned just slips away ! For me if I was averaging 70/75 mph ! It older higher mileage engines that can be a issue as well! So Roadhog has merit to his story ! IMO. So you NEED to check you oil more often with a lot of highway riding! For me was not a issue when riding in the 60/70 mph range

[Navigator]

I've had excellent luck with synthetics. It really doesn't cost that much more than dino oil.

On what Mas said about using synthetics after dino, I used to have a folder full of articles on motorcycle oils from different magazines, one was a multi issue series.It a couple they cautioned about going from long time use of dino to synthetic because it could result in seal leaks. One of the reasons stated was that the build up on the gasket edges with dyno was part of the gasket sealing process and synthetics would dissolve that and find their way out. I found that to be true first hand many moons ago. Of course it was on an old Harley so go figure.

[Luckymann777]

Ok, I'll admit it...
I LIKE Valvoline 4T MOTORCYCLE oil...
I was unhappy with the shifter feel, especially first to second...
Valvoline 4T CURED IT...
Shifts like butta now...
I mean, IMMEDIATELY after the change to it !!!
First ride...
After 50 miles, even better !!!

Is it cleaner running?
Prolly...
It's a Class III so it's "manufactured" Dino oil...
No Leaks...
No usage...
Bike runs noticeably smoother...
Iridium plugs helped too I'm sure, that's another story...

I will continue to run it...
AND change it regularly.


Ride On !!!
Luckymann777

[Chuck A.]

I used Mobil synthetic oil for a little over a thousand miles in my "03 1500 one time. Trams started shifting hard, and noisey. I went to Honda 4 stroke oil per Denny6006 advise. Shifts better than it ever did even at 3500 miles. Bike has 52000 miles now. Oils change as engine manufacturing materials change. Not all new oil blends are recommended for older models.

[Monkeyman]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

The way it was explained to me is that if the engine is new or low mileage synth will not leak.

I just had a brand new motor installed in my Enclave. The old motor always had regular oil (which is what it had out of the factory). The new motor has synthetic. The GM mechanic (GM gave me a 3yr/100k mile warranty) told me basically the same thing. For a new (or new-ish) motor, synthetic is the way to go. For something older, it's a definite no-no.

[Navigator]

Originally Posted by Chuck A.

I used Mobil synthetic oil for a little over a thousand miles in my "03 1500 one time. Trams started shifting hard, and noisey. I went to Honda 4 stroke oil per Denny6006 advise. Shifts better than it ever did even at 3500 miles. Bike has 52000 miles now. Oils change as engine manufacturing materials change. Not all new oil blends are recommended for older models.

What remains true Chuck is that one cannot go wrong using dyno oil and changing it at regular intervals. One of the reasons I've shifted to synthetic is that I've been doing long range touring since I retired and don't want to worry abut changing oil at 2500 miles.

I've never noticed any difference in cooling, noise, shifting etc., between the different oils. Keep it slippery and all goes well.

[Chuck A.]

I have an old class mate that owns an oil distribution company. He told me that the Castrol oil I so loved in my vehicles aren't the same blend as they were when I started using it in my 2000 model Dodge truck. It has a cast iron engine. New trucks have the aluminum. Oil stays with the current market, not yesterdays. Molecules are designed for current metals.

[hardrider]

I started using Rotella t6 because everyone said how great it was. I have no visible leaks and change my oil between 3000 and 4000 miles. Now I'm understanding to use conventional oil and not synthetic? How can they call it synthetic if it isn't synthetic? Should I switch to Kawasaki dino or synthetic just to be safe? Sorry, just confused

[rozie]

Hey hardrider; its nice to see another thunder bay rider on the forums. if your happy with the T6 rotella oil then keep using it. when I bought my vaquero in 2015 I took it back to Excaliber for the first oil change just to have documentaion for warranty purposes. I noticed on the reciept that they put in kawasaki S4 10W40 full sythetic oil. since then I have used the same oil and change it myself at 5000 klm. intervals with filter. maybe I will see you on the road this summer.

[degreaser]

T6 is only if you live North of Churchill Manitoba and ride in January, don't use Rotella T6, it turns to a 3 weight oil within 150 km of riding, save your money and put in water instead, at least water is above 3 WT I think.

[rozie]

Originally Posted by degreaser

T6 is only if you live North of Churchill Manitoba and ride in January, don't use Rotella T6, it turns to a 3 weight oil within 150 km of riding, save your money and put in water instead, at least water is above 3 WT I think.

OK so if I may be so bold to ask... what oil do you run in your bike?

[hardrider]

Hey Rozie, we'll definitely have to go for some rides whenever our season starts... lol.

[DragonLady58]

Yea, the churning gearbox shreds the oil, and attacks the protection additives....Which needs changing sooner....If it were like a Harley with seperate oiling systems, yes, it wouldn't be as bad.....