Time to start the engine rebuild

[gillisfire]

I finally got started on tearing down my bike to get to the engine. I have to change out a shift fork (don't down shift when your really mad at your ex wife!!). I thought about just buying another 1500 or 1600 engine, but I decided to try doing a rebuild instead. I like taking on a challenge, I'm not in a rush because I have my 900C to ride, and I want to be able to say "I built my bike". So if you would, wish me luck. And i am open to any advice.

Oh, and it gets pretty dirty underneath the parts that aren't supposed to come off!!

[Jared]

Good luck! MasTequila has built a few and can probably give you some advice if you get in a bind.

[Youngwarrior]

Good luck! just about to pull my 99 nomad motor. ..It's a ticking time-bomb. :(

[DragonLady58]

before you start, get yourself a good cleared, clean work area. Have a teardown table, then clean your parts, then move to your clean assembly area. Dirt is your enemy.
Take your time, take plenty of pictures for reference. Be sure to replace a tired oil pump with a new one if you have the miles and pressure was low.
Put all new gaskets in her, and be sure to clean/replace your lifter screens. This is a great time to flush your cooling system before you pull it all down.
Good Luck...., and don't forget new timing chains if old ones a stretched out....

[Youngwarrior]

Dragonlady58, I have a question. It appears that I have a stuck HLA. I had planned to give it a seafoam treatment, but I've found the bike is now reluctant to start (it has and it did run). I am led to believe that the tapping noise may be the KACR destroying itself, or a combination of both or whatever...so I don't want to risk starting it again for seafoam, and risk further damage.
So.. with having to take rocker box off, how much more work is it to get right down and replace oil sight glass(this would involve splitting cases yeah)? Mine is black and I literally can't see where oil level is.
Additionally, I had planned on splitting the cases after this season as I am concerned about oil seal in water pump and how long it will last- the red section of it looked 'bubbly'.(recent replaced mech seal in water pump).

[gillisfire]

Youngwarrior, I believe you are correct about having to split the cases. My biggest suggestion to do before you tackle your project is to get the repair manual for your year bike. I have read over the procedure to replace the shift forks, and then read it again. So with this Kawasaki Nomad 1500 Bible, I have convinced myself that I can rebuild my engine.

And as per your recommendations Dragonlady58, If I can get the new replacement parts, then new parts are getting installed. I plan on having a sterile working area. I am wanting everything to be like a new motor when I am done. I'm not rushed, so I have that working for me during the rebuild. If I get to where I'm not certain about something, I have plenty of time to research it or order a replacement part.

And MasTequila has also reached out to me offering advice. I am thankful of any help offered.

[MAS Tequila]

To replace the oil sight glass all you have to do is pull the chrome cover on the clutch side of the engine.

It presses out and with a bit of silicone (RTV) it will press back in.

Is the ticking coming from the front or rear head?

The front head cover can be removed without taking the engine completely out of the bike.

You can disconnect the exhaust, frame downtube, front engine mount, and a few other items, then lower the front of the engine and access the front head.

Do NOT reinstall a KACR in your engine,

They're not necessary, I never put them back and have never had any issues.

I know of a MeanStreak with 12+ to 1 compression and no KACR's and it spins over and starts just fine.

Usually you don't hear a KACR going bad, the spring breaks then the whole piece grenades while at speed, taking your head with it.

[Youngwarrior]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

To replace the oil sight glass all you have to do is pull the chrome cover on the clutch side of the engine.

It presses out and with a bit of silicone (RTV) it will press back in.

Is the ticking coming from the front or rear head?

The front head cover can be removed without taking the engine completely out of the bike.

You can disconnect the exhaust, frame downtube, front engine mount, and a few other items, then lower the front of the engine and access the front head.

Do NOT reinstall a KACR in your engine,

They're not necessary, I never put them back and have never had any issues.

I know of a MeanStreak with 12+ to 1 compression and no KACR's and it spins over and starts just fine.

Usually you don't hear a KACR going bad, the spring breaks then the whole piece grenades while at speed, taking your head with it.

That's awesome news regarding sight glass.
Front cylinder. I heard it's possible without removing motor.
I only had the motor out a couple months ago to do front and rear cam plugs.
I see the advantages of not taking motor out again (believe me) but I'm not sure how I'd go trying to do the work in a confined space (in frame). ...RTVing the rocker box, taking out KACR, refilling oil in 'that' chamber, torqueing up.... a bit worried I'd f**k something up.

[Youngwarrior]

...and the oil seal? do I have to tear down from the top to split cases?
It hasn't blown or anything but I don't think it's in top shape. ..would be good to just fix the current problem and get back out on the road, deal with that in off season.

[DragonLady58]

Only have to split the cases for the engine internals like crankshaft, oil pump or internal trans. problems.
Just drop engine enough to get clearance to remove top covers, and replace your HLAs and oil screens, or at least clean them really well. HLAs just install new ones.
Look at your rockers really good, and your cam lobes, if anything is amiss, replace. I just do like MAS, I lock the KACR inplace or remove, thus bypassing it. Its a good idea, probably helps some when the bike is new....its more trouble than its worth.
If cam lobes are scored or worn, go to cam dynamics and get the hotter grinds or get some MS cams.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

To replace the oil sight glass all you have to do is pull the chrome cover on the clutch side of the engine.

It presses out and with a bit of silicone (RTV) it will press back in.

Is the ticking coming from the front or rear head?

The front head cover can be removed without taking the engine completely out of the bike.

You can disconnect the exhaust, frame downtube, front engine mount, and a few other items, then lower the front of the engine and access the front head.

Do NOT reinstall a KACR in your engine,

They're not necessary, I never put them back and have never had any issues.

I know of a MeanStreak with 12+ to 1 compression and no KACR's and it spins over and starts just fine.

Usually you don't hear a KACR going bad, the spring breaks then the whole piece grenades while at speed, taking your head with it.

The spring came off of mine,i found it in the oil filter some time ago.What's holding the KARC's in position,and what does it take to remove them.Do they just slide off once the cam is taken out ?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...0/DSC00846.JPG

[MAS Tequila]

Just lift the back end of the cam up slightly and the KACR will slide off.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

Just lift the back end of the cam up slightly and the KACR will slide off.

Thanks mate.

[Youngwarrior]

ok, I will give the in frame option a swing.

The 'gallery' (where 2 oil screens are located), how do I fill this with oil prior to reassembly, as per the manual?

and;

I will remove KACR, what is the result when I only remove the front one and leave the back one still in?

[mick56]

I think there is only one on the rear cylinder mate.