"REDS" P.O.G. just went out

[danimal2]

As I said, that's all good stuff. Had I seen this prior to doing mine I probably would've gone this route rather than the JOG.

Originally Posted by rolfe

I had all my parts on hand since 2011 just waiting for the Plastic Oil Pump Gear P.O.G. to fail. It did at 26,500 miles

I checked mine at 20,000 miles and the teeth were all pointy. You could tell that it wouldn't have lasted too much longer.

I wasn't going to wait for mine to fail. Always pictured myself somewhere out in the boonies without oil pressure. Wasn't going to let that happen if I could help it.

[rolfe]

The OEM Steel Oil Pump Gear cost around $59.00 now.

Originally Posted by rolfe

No use the Wire Feed Mig Welder

1. Wet Cotton Shop Towel and place in Oil Drain Port Hole under S.O.G.
2. Once Gear is Tacked (remember to use Telescopic Pencil Magnet) to pull out shaft before tacking weld.
3. Let cool then place another part of a Wet Cotton Shop Towel as best as possible behind S.O.G.
4. Continue the Weld.

****Since the OEM Shaft has two slices in it there is no way the S.O.G. is coming off.****
I am not even worried about S.O.G. has compared to the cheap plastic OEM Gear that was factory installed. Its not Rocket Science and its a No Brainer.

0 % Failure rates

I had all my parts on hand since 2011 just waiting for the Plastic Oil Pump Gear P.O.G. to fail. It did at 26,500 miles

[Silent Sam]

EXCELLENT INFORMATION And Photo's..... Thanks Guy's...

[Snake Ranch]

If you do decide to weld the gear on the shaft in the engine, be sure you have a straight ground to the gear. What can happen is electricity takes the path of least resistance and I have seen the damage when it goes a different route than where you think it will go. It can take out your electrical system, it can arc on bearings or bolts. So don't clamp the ground lead to the case or frame. disconnect the battery. This is a small gear. Make a small ground whip with a small c-clamp and some large primary wire. Then clamp your large ground lead to the small one. If you don't have a good ground you can have a real bad day down the road.

[rolfe]

Originally Posted by rolfe

The OEM Steel Oil Pump Gear cost around $59.00 now.

1. Cut your Gas Off and have a Fire Extinguisher.
2. Disconnect your Battery.
3. Tack your Weld First when using frame for grounding.
4. Then do what "Snake Ranch" says make a temporary make shift ground to the Steel Oil Pump Gear to safe guard of current travel thru bike.

Just extra safety

[Rusty Piper]

I did this exact procedure for my 99 Nomad when my POG failed. Like rolfe, I was lucky I had just left the house and shut it down as soon as I lost power and saw the oil light come on.

If you buy the new SOG from Kawi, you will have to have the shaft removed by a machine shop. I believe rolfe found someone who would sell you one already machined out for around $80.

I was concerned about the heat on the welder, as discussed before, softening the metal in the gear. I spoke with my local machine shop and they said that the small amount of weld would soften center of the gear but if cooled would not affect the outer portion of the gear. Not to mention, I was replacing a PLASTIC gear with a metal one. Even if it did take the hardness out of the gear, it should still be stronger than the plastic. There is not much pressure on this gear as it is only turning a small oil pump.

I don't remember the mileage when this happened but it has been almost 10,000 miles since it was replaced. So far, no problems.

And as rolfe stated, if you cut the POG off of the existing shaft and used a dremel like I did, you will need a new thrust washer that goes behind the gear because you will cut it with the dremel.

[tinman1]

Another thing most people do know realize is that most gears of this type only have the teeth portion heat treated, not the whole gear. They basically do a flame hardening of the teeth, or outer edge of the gear, and not the whole gear. Either way, welding something so small would never significantly compromise the teeth of that gear. It's not like you are burning 5 lbs of 7018 rods on the little thing.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by tinman1

Another thing most people do know realize is that most gears of this type only have the teeth portion heat treated, not the whole gear. They basically do a flame hardening of the teeth, or outer edge of the gear, and not the whole gear. Either way, welding something so small would never significantly compromise the teeth of that gear. It's not like you are burning 5 lbs of 7018 rods on the little thing.

Make's sense to me mate

[Tearitupfixitrepeat]

Originally Posted by mick56

That's pure greed on account of they know the alternative is an engine strip down, if that part fit somewhere accessable it would be $50 maximum

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Nope, capitalism at its best.

I don't come around much and I don't like to troll, but that's about the rudest and most ignorant stuff I have read in a while. The reason it's expensive is because it a low volume part and all the development, set-up, overhead, and manufacturing costs are spread around like a thousand instead of tens of thousands or more.

If you guys are so smart build them yourself and undercut him. Oh wait there is a patent and that cost some upfront money, too.

Just think MaKaw wants $50 for a master cylinder rebuild kit that fits like 10 years and 5 models of bikes.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by Tearitupfixitrepeat

I don't come around much and I don't like to troll, but that's about the rudest and most ignorant stuff I have read in a while. The reason it's expensive is because it a low volume part and all the development, set-up, overhead, and manufacturing costs are spread around like a thousand instead of tens of thousands or more.

If you guys are so smart build them yourself and undercut him. Oh wait there is a patent and that cost some upfront money, too.

Just think MaKaw wants $50 for a master cylinder rebuild kit that fits like 10 years and 5 models of bikes.

If i am not mistaken somebody already has undercut him, did'nt Rolfe pay $59 for his.(that's capitalism at it's best)As for being ignorant,that to me has allway's meant that somebody is not just stupid, but is unwilling to be educated,and having read through all of the comment's in this thread,i consider myself better informed than i was before,you however, dont appear to be.

[Tearitupfixitrepeat]

Originally Posted by mick56

If i am not mistaken somebody already has undercut him, did'nt Rolfe pay $59 for his.(that's capitalism at it's best)As for being ignorant,that to me has allway's meant that somebody is not just stupid, but is unwilling to be educated,and having read through all of the comment's in this thread,i consider myself better informed than i was before,you however, dont appear to be.

Yes, ignorant means uneducated, not stupid.

The part he bought was $59 because it's the OEM part that went into all 1500 and 1600 motorcycles built by Kawasaki from 2000 to 2008, plus their spare parts inventory. Lots of production pieces and all the engineering cost was covered with a drawing update to a new material.

A new way to solve problem has been presented here. If you're a weldor with a welder and want to fix it that way that's great. If you want fix it with simple tools a JOG is great.

I really don't appreciate you saying that someone who developed a part and someone else building the part under license to help fix people bikes is ripping everyone off.

As far as my willingness to learn, I have had to figure out more on these dang 1500 than most dealer mechanics. I have also taught a lot of people about these 1500's and given the knowledge and time away for free.

[danimal2]

I know this is an old post, but thought I'd update. My JOG just failed on me this past weekend. Started out with some ticking that was barely noticeable at first, then got louder. Thought I was low on oil and had some lifter tick. Although the tick wasn't coming from up top I stopped to check the level and found it spot on. Turned around to head back to the house because it just didn't feel right. Made it about a mile and the idiot light came on. Shut it down immediately and sent my girlfriend on her bike to get the truck and ramp.

Going to try this SOG thing.

I installed the JOG myself and had read and re-read the instructions over dozens of times. Looked at all the photos. Read other guys stuff that had done them. Even addressed the clutch basket spring retainers. Used the proper locktite and allowed it to cure overnight. No stone left unturned.

Got 20,000 miles out of it before it gave way.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by Tearitupfixitrepeat

Yes, ignorant means uneducated, not stupid.

The part he bought was $59 because it's the OEM part that went into all 1500 and 1600 motorcycles built by Kawasaki from 2000 to 2008, plus their spare parts inventory. Lots of production pieces and all the engineering cost was covered with a drawing update to a new material.

A new way to solve problem has been presented here. If you're a weldor with a welder and want to fix it that way that's great. If you want fix it with simple tools a JOG is great.

I really don't appreciate you saying that someone who developed a part and someone else building the part under license to help fix people bikes is ripping everyone off.

As far as my willingness to learn, I have had to figure out more on these dang 1500 than most dealer mechanics. I have also taught a lot of people about these 1500's and given the knowledge and time away for free.

My comment was'nt intended as a personal insult to you at all.And i appreciate that the JOG is not a mass produced part.But paying $300+ for a part that has failed several times,when a far better,and much cheaper alternative is available,is not the way to go.

[DragonLady58]

Well, let me say 'Thanks' to Tearitup...., he's helped alot of folks with his articles. Rolfe is right, if you can stick weld, being a welder, do it, cause those little mig bb's go all over....I now TIG them....keeps from heat things too much and keeps the flux, slag and bb's at bay.
The correct solution for the kawafubar is to split the cases and do it right. BUT, this is a repair for all the folks that have a perfect motor in good condition, avoiding the extra expense of splitting cases.
Now, that being said....its perfectly safe, but very time consuming, but I've replaced a bunch o these.
If done correctly, they should last, but with all things mechanical, the failure rate will be a crapshoot.
I don't like or condone flaming someone, they're offering a kit to fix a otherwise down bike for about a 15th of what the correct fix would be. So, Do it if you want, or not. But, its a solid and sound fix that can be done by just about anyone.
Remember, theres alot of outside variables....pump shaft has to be correctly aligned, gear has to be aligned, wrapping things up, covering other stuff, ground clamps, its gets busy and cramped up in that side cover. I would SUGGEST removing the clutch basket....while it can be done with it in place, theres no reason NOT to remove it. It will make the job alot easier.
Just did one on a 99....on the welding, I just leaned the bike over on its side and said screw this, used my TIG....alot stronger, cleaner weld.
Anyway, I will say this....its super important to get the gear running as true and as straight as possible. I tack it in one place, then use a starret lastword .0001 indicator to rotate the gear, to get it perfect, then tack fully, then doublechecking.
Good Luck Friends....

[minst7877]

Originally Posted by danimal2

I know this is an old post, but thought I'd update. My JOG just failed on me this past weekend. Started out with some ticking that was barely noticeable at first, then got louder. Thought I was low on oil and had some lifter tick. Although the tick wasn't coming from up top I stopped to check the level and found it spot on. Turned around to head back to the house because it just didn't feel right. Made it about a mile and the idiot light came on. Shut it down immediately and sent my girlfriend on her bike to get the truck and ramp.

Going to try this SOG thing.

I installed the JOG myself and had read and re-read the instructions over dozens of times. Looked at all the photos. Read other guys stuff that had done them. Even addressed the clutch basket spring retainers. Used the proper locktite and allowed it to cure overnight. No stone left unturned.

Got 20,000 miles out of it before it gave way.

A sad day for your greenie. I remember that sinking feeling knowing that you have done the jog and seeing that stupid idiot light come on.

I went thru the same thing you just did and ended up splitting the case to replace the gear. My jog destroyed the end of the shaft so getting anything to run true on it would of been impossible. Hope you don't find the same problem when you get into it.

DC


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