"REDS" P.O.G. just went out - Page 2

**MAS Tequila** · 10-14-2014, 06:46 AM

No, he means some of the Jog's have failed.

Usually the reason a JOG fails lies in the installation, they HAVE to be installed just as instructed.

There have been installation mistakes resulting in failure.

MT

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snake Ranch

Just my 2 cents worth here. I used to work in a machine shop where we would make gears and shafts. When you say "some have failed too" do you mean the welds failed? Some of the gears and shafts I used to make were made of alloys that you could not weld to at all. Others were weldable but if they were hardened they had to be sent out and annealed, welded, then rehardned. I don't know what you have there but you might want to ask about before going to all the trouble. Just my 2 cents.

**MAS Tequila** · 10-14-2014, 06:48 AM

EZ-On gets $310 for a new one.

http://www.ezonmotorcycleaccessories...esOilGear.aspx

Quote:

Originally Posted by ringadingh

^^^ Thats seems quite expensive for a used gear in my opinion.

mick56 · 10-14-2014, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

EZ-On gets $310 for a new one.

http://www.ezonmotorcycleaccessories...esOilGear.aspx

That's pure greed on account of they know the alternative is an engine strip down, if that part fit somewhere accessable it would be $50 maximum

cactusjack · 10-14-2014, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mick56

That's pure greed on account of they know the alternative is an engine strip down, if that part fit somewhere accessable it would be $50 maximum

Nope, capitalism at its best.

**cnc** · 10-14-2014, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snake Ranch

Just my 2 cents worth here. I used to work in a machine shop where we would make gears and shafts. When you say "some have failed too" do you mean the welds failed? Some of the gears and shafts I used to make were made of alloys that you could not weld to at all. Others were weldable but if they were hardened they had to be sent out and annealed, welded, then rehardned. I don't know what you have there but you might want to ask about before going to all the trouble. Just my 2 cents.

If you are welding that gear on and it or the shaft are hardened, snake ranch is right, welding will take the temper out and make the piece brittle at the weld.

mick56 · 10-14-2014, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactusjack

Nope, capitalism at its best.

Exploitation of the vulnerable is what it is, make a profit by all mean's, but ripping people off is just plain ugly

rolfe · 10-14-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolfe

After work today I pulled the side cover and clutch hub. Yes a few teeth were missing off the POG. Going by the book covering all areas where debris could fall into or on something. I proceeded to cut off the POG which I took my time and without issues it was off.

Next I fit my OEM steel oil pump gear (without the shaft) onto the the newly removed POG shaft.

Tuesday its off to the welder to spot weld the gear on.

I've taking some photos during the process and will post up.

I was extremely lucky as just about 2 miles from the house when the Oil Warning Light came on and immediately shut the engine off within 30 seconds.

"RED" will be trustworthy again, to be honest without the worry I have had waiting for the oil light to come on.

Today we used a MIG welder to spot tack the OEM Steel Oil Pump Gear -SOG- on the removed the (POG GEAR) shaft.

Then we built up a small weld.

Once home from the shop I used my Dremel with a small sanding wheel to bring the weld flush with the gear.

Before installing the Clutch Basket I check clearances on the back side where the spring holder tabs are. Using a small metal straight edge is how I checked this along with the weld on the SOG.

Cleaned up everything before installing, gasket surfaces, etc.... and its done.

I took RED out for a test ride and everything is good.

I , We, and others have done this exact method with 0 failure rates. Putting 10's of thousands miles on the 99's.

Cost of the OEM gear less than $50

I found this method from a former Bagger up East.

Its beyond me why in the world a engineer would put a plastic gear in the Nomad.

I have added pictures
1. Shows the OEM steel oil pump gear which we removed the shaft.
2. Shows the OEM plastic gear before removing -you can see the teeth missing.
3. Shows me ready to slide gear on shaft where the old P.O.G. was.
4. Shows the Gear on shaft before using a wire feed mig welder. **** YOU MUST USE A TELESCOPIC MAGNET TO PULL THE SHAFT OUT BEFORE WELDING---the welder tack welded while I used the magnet.***** then he finished the weld.

The only way I figured out how to do this is from reading many articles from "Gadget's Fix it Page" + 2 different shop manuals, surfing the internet for how to on 99 Nomads, going to parts sites and studing drawings etc....
I have no knowledge of motorcycle repairs.

Like everyone before me says Take Your Time Have all your parts on hand Watch out and protect that opening below the oil pump gear with a rag.

***JUST A NOTE HERE behind the oil pump gear is a washer plan on having a new one on hand as when removing the plastic gear using a dremel tool with a point type cutter damage will occur.*********

The first time I replaced my Clutch Plates / I used a Mean Streak Spring just to check also if I had a POG.

This time I went ahead also when installing the Steel Oil Pump Gear I went ahead and did the spring again.

Again there is no way I could have figured "Right Side Cover Removal " "Clutch Plates and Springs Install" along with the all Famous Kawasaki Plastic Oil Pump Gear Removal" without everyone's help!

mick56 · 10-15-2014, 01:06 AM

Good for you mate

$50 as apposed to $310,if Kawasaki can do it for that, then the other bloke is taking the piss, and everyone should let him know by not buying his part.

HurtSoMuch · 10-15-2014, 01:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mick56

I dont know what a new one would cost, but that shipped to England is $166 + whatever the custom's officer feel's like adding on the day, it could be another $30+. It's open to offer's, if i wanted it i would bid him in the bollock's at $50

Hey Hurtsomuch

How much is it costing you for a new one shipped to you're local Fjord ?

the JOG cost $310+$30in shipping..then the norwegian taxofficer should have something to say about this too..about another $100 i guess

mick56 · 10-15-2014, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HurtSoMuch

the JOG cost $310+$30in shipping..then the norwegian taxofficer should have something to say about this too..about another $100 i guess

After reading rolfe's post you must feel like you've just been mugged.

danimal2 · 10-16-2014, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolfe

Today we used a MIG welder to spot tack the OEM Steel Oil Pump Gear -SOG- remember we removed the shaft.

How do you remove the shaft without splitting the cases?

rolfe · 10-17-2014, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolfe

today we used a mig welder to spot tack the oem steel oil pump gear -sog- remember we removed the shaft.

Then we built up a small weld.

Once home from the shop i used my dremel with a small sanding wheel to bring the weld flush with the gear.

Before installing the clutch basket i check clearances on the back side where the spring holder tabs are. Using a small metal straight edge is how i checked this along with the weld on the sog.

Cleaned up everything before installing, gasket surfaces, etc.... And its done.

I took red out for a test ride and everything is good.

I , we, and others have done this exact method with 0 failure rates. Putting 10's of thousands miles on the 99's.

Cost of the oem gear less than $50

i found this method from a former bagger up east.

Its beyond me why in the world a engineer would put a plastic gear in the nomad.

I have added pictures
1. Shows the oem steel oil pump gear which we removed the shaft.
2. Shows the oem plastic gear before removing -you can see the teeth missing.
3. Shows me ready to slide gear on shaft where the old p.o.g. Was.
4. Shows the gear on shaft before using a wire feed mig welder. **** you must use a telescopic magnet to pull the shaft out before welding---the welder tack welded while i used the magnet.***** then he finished the weld.

The only way i figured out how to do this is from reading many articles from "gadget's fix it page" + 2 different shop manuals, surfing the internet for how to on 99 nomads, going to parts sites and studing drawings etc....
I have no knowledge of motorcycle repairs.

Like everyone before me says take your time have all your parts on hand watch out and protect that opening below the oil pump gear with a rag.

***just a note here behind the oil pump gear is a washer plan on having a new one on hand as when removing the plastic gear using a dremel tool with a point type cutter damage will occur.*********

the first time i replaced my clutch plates / i used a mean streak spring just to check also if i had a pog.

This time i went ahead also when installing the steel oil pump gear i went ahead and did the spring again.

Again there is no way i could have figured "right side cover removal " "clutch plates and springs install" along with the all famous kawasaki plastic oil pump gear removal" without everyone's help!

its done

HurtSoMuch · 10-17-2014, 02:35 AM

we get mugged in Norway all the time..by the government..are used to it

danimal2 · 10-17-2014, 10:50 AM

Duh. I get it. I thought you meant removed the shaft from the bike, not the new gear.

I considered doing this after reading about it, but went with the JOG instead. Read more good reports than bad, so went that route. Put 16,000 miles on it so far. Hopefully it holds.

Looks like this should work out fine for you. If I went this way I was thinking about TIG welding it rather than MIG figuring it would be a more controlled heat and better penetration. Don't reckon it would make a whole lot of difference though.

Congrats on your fix.

rolfe · 10-18-2014, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rolfe

Today we used a MIG welder to spot tack the OEM Steel Oil Pump Gear -SOG- remember we removed the shaft.

Then we built up a small weld.

Once home from the shop I used my Dremel with a small sanding wheel to bring the weld flush with the gear.

Before installing the Clutch Basket I check clearances on the back side where the spring holder tabs are. Using a small metal straight edge is how I checked this along with the weld on the SOG.

Cleaned up everything before installing, gasket surfaces, etc.... and its done.

I took RED out for a test ride and everything is good.

I , We, and others have done this exact method with 0 failure rates. Putting 10's of thousands miles on the 99's.

Cost of the OEM gear less than $50

I found this method from a former Bagger up East.

Its beyond me why in the world a engineer would put a plastic gear in the Nomad.

I have added pictures
1. Shows the OEM steel oil pump gear which we removed the shaft.
2. Shows the OEM plastic gear before removing -you can see the teeth missing.
3. Shows me ready to slide gear on shaft where the old P.O.G. was.
4. Shows the Gear on shaft before using a wire feed mig welder. **** YOU MUST USE A TELESCOPIC MAGNET TO PULL THE SHAFT OUT BEFORE WELDING---the welder tack welded while I used the magnet.***** then he finished the weld.

The only way I figured out how to do this is from reading many articles from "Gadget's Fix it Page" + 2 different shop manuals, surfing the internet for how to on 99 Nomads, going to parts sites and studing drawings etc....
I have no knowledge of motorcycle repairs.

Like everyone before me says Take Your Time Have all your parts on hand Watch out and protect that opening below the oil pump gear with a rag.

***JUST A NOTE HERE behind the oil pump gear is a washer plan on having a new one on hand as when removing the plastic gear using a dremel tool with a point type cutter damage will occur.*********

The first time I replaced my Clutch Plates / I used a Mean Streak Spring just to check also if I had a POG.

This time I went ahead also when installing the Steel Oil Pump Gear I went ahead and did the spring again.

Again there is no way I could have figured "Right Side Cover Removal " "Clutch Plates and Springs Install" along with the all Famous Kawasaki Plastic Oil Pump Gear Removal" without everyone's help!

No use the Wire Feed Mig Welder

1. Wet Cotton Shop Towel and place in Oil Drain Port Hole under S.O.G.
2. Once Gear is Tacked (remember to use Telescopic Pencil Magnet) to pull out shaft before tacking weld.
3. Let cool the place another part of a Wet Cotton Shop Towel as best as possible behind S.O.G.
4. Continue the Weld.

****Since the OEM Shaft has two slices in it there is no way the S.O.G. is coming off.****
I am not even worried about S.O.G. has compared to the cheap plastic OEM Gear that was factory installed. Its not Rocket Science and its a No Brainer.

0 % Failure rates

I had all my parts on hand since 2011 just waiting for the Plastic Oil Pump Gear P.O.G. to fail. It did at 26,500 miles

10-15-2014, 01:06 AM	#23
mick56 Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: The Newforest, England Posts: 4,664	Good for you mate$50 as apposed to $310,if Kawasaki can do it for that, then the other bloke is taking the piss, and everyone should let him know by not buying his part. __________________ when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find.
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10-17-2014, 02:35 AM	#28
HurtSoMuch Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Norway Posts: 127	we get mugged in Norway all the time..by the government..are used to it __________________ HurtSoMuch Vulcan Nomad 1500 '99 VBA #02163
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10-17-2014, 10:50 AM	#29
danimal2 Advanced Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Glendale, Arizona Posts: 987	Duh. I get it. I thought you meant removed the shaft from the bike, not the new gear. I considered doing this after reading about it, but went with the JOG instead. Read more good reports than bad, so went that route. Put 16,000 miles on it so far. Hopefully it holds. Looks like this should work out fine for you. If I went this way I was thinking about TIG welding it rather than MIG figuring it would be a more controlled heat and better penetration. Don't reckon it would make a whole lot of difference though. Congrats on your fix. __________________ VBA member #01682 Green 1999 Nomad 1500 carb'd 43,000 miles JOG'd at 20,000, JOG failed at 40,000 SOG'd at 40,000 Darksider Last edited by danimal2; 10-17-2014 at 11:03 AM.
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