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01-09-2018, 06:11 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 76
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Will a 1700 engine swap into Nomad 1600
My 07 Nomad 1600 is getting a little tired lately. 64K and fairly stock.
Wondering if a 1700 Nomad engine can be swapped into the frame. I am not going for big problems, or major engine or welding work. just a fresh engine a little newer. Anyone have any experience in this area, I would appreciate ideas. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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01-09-2018, 06:30 PM | #2 |
Top Contributor
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 6,920
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My advice would be to sell the 1600 and buy a 1700 although 64,000 miles is not a lot for a 1600 engine.
A 1600 to 1700 engine transplant is far more complicated than I think you realize. The 1600 is shaft drive and the 1700 is belt drive and there is probably a lot more other transplant issues, exhaust pipes, fuel management etc etc |
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01-09-2018, 08:06 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sale Australia
Posts: 157
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and do they require different oils??
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2005 Nomad 1600 Cobra tru duals Dobec EJK 2.5/3.5/1.5/6/2.5/3.5 Cadmad / K&N + original intact Progresive 412HD / Front springs also Darkside rear tire 36psi 195/55/16 Towbar/ classic trailer Penrite HPR15 diesel oil Led lights front and back |
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01-09-2018, 08:06 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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Its a totally different motor and it wont fit into the 1600 frame. Find another low mileage 1600 motor and do the swap.
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2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951 |
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01-13-2018, 10:47 AM | #6 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
Posts: 3,429
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Shaft drive vs belt drive, for one small difference.
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01-13-2018, 06:47 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
Posts: 2,351
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The 1500/1600 is essentially the same, except for the crankshafts, 1600 has a slightly longer stroke. only other diff's are the top head covers are slightly curved, and the diff. in cams/ pistons (meanies), along with the gearing.
The 1700 is a complete redesign trying to make a great bike better. Mounts, hole locations, and ECU are all diff....there is very little, if nothing, that is shared, except for frame geometry. That is close....Actual Physical shape and size is also diff. slightly.... The belt drive is a attempt to get away from vibs and ujoint replacement, (GoldWings and BMWs don't seem to have a problem, MaKawa realized a belt is a cheap alternative than put in a rubber take-up isolator in driveshaft/rearwheel) that would allow for belt replacement during long excursions/trips from home. 64K on a 1600 is only thru 1/2 its life, if she's tired, take her in and have your top end redone. At 64K, your lower end should be fine, unless you been pulling a 20' Airstream behind your bike.... Belt replacement would only be 45 Min./1Hr. in a emergency situation on the side of road, motel parking lot. or a Kawa Dealer Parking lot. If your a DIY Guy, get a manual, tools, and for about 500 bones, do a ring job, valve job, your back to full power.... If you want to go to 1700, get the big bore kit from Thunder if they're still in business....it will open your eyes! I installed 1 kit, just before they stopped answering their phones....and I got 2 words for it, "Holy Shit!" Its got TORQUE!
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
Last edited by DragonLady58; 01-13-2018 at 07:19 PM.
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07-08-2020, 10:13 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Green Bay WI
Posts: 755
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This coming winter I'll tear down my 1600 Classic to repair 2nd gear. I have the following Mean Streak parts going into the rebuild: wheels front and rear, front brake discs, complete heads and cams, throttle bodies, Mean Streak gearset (but using 5th gear from the Classic). That, along with all the air solenoids gone, Baron air intake, V&H True Duals, Power Commander with map switch.
So that leaves the pistons and bores as stock, for now. That is if I don't overbore it and go for the Thunder Kit. But now you have me thinking I need to check it out.
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07-09-2020, 10:37 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: The Newforest, England
Posts: 4,664
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If you think the engine is tired, why not try a compression test to verify it. Not sure what they are supposed to be from new. But mine has almost 90,000 miles on it, half of them towing a trailer, and was 100 psi on both barrels recently.
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