Riding Tips For Curvy Roads

[Vulcanrider]

Originally Posted by dabull

First---Ride your ride--period.

Second--You will drag hard parts before you ever drop the bike.

Just ride the way you want, within your means, enjoy the views and come out alive on the other side ;)

Well said

[dank]

I don’t know if this is the case for you, but one thing I’ve noticed that many cruiser riders do is to tilt the bike into the corner and keep their body fairly upright, in essence pivoting the bike under them, instead of sliding their own weight toward the inside of the corner, off center on the bike, and keeping the bike more upright. Doing it the first way feels nice and relaxed, but it makes for an unstable configuration in the corner if the corner tightens or you went into it a bit fast for the line you chose. Very little ability to adjust that way. In the end though, , however you choose to sit as your approach the corners, just ride whatever speed feels comfortable to you.

Of course, as has been noted, getting a bike that handles twisties better is probably the best way to improve cornering speed. Greg’s and my ST1300’s glide through the corners easily at the speeds where Brad’s Victory is doing his so called “power slide.”

[landman]

Originally Posted by schoeney

Good advice here.

Ride your own ride & track days (practice). What is the fun in going faster than you feel comfortable?

Just have a place to meet your buddies if they want to ride faster than you.

+1 or you could just trade it for a C14

[Silent Sam]

Alway's Brake -Befor- entering any curve...then add power as you are sure you've made it through !

Anytime you have to brake after entering/while in, the curve..you have misjudged the speed and the curve to start with...and you are now in a risky situation !

[dhuttonkc]

Learn to counter steer with confidence and look thru the curve, not at the curve. The bike will go where your eyes and head are pointed. Find the book, motorcycling proficiency, by David Hough. I think now in 2nd edition. Best all around book on riding period. Forget the track day until you are confident in your ability. There is too much ego at the track and you may feel pushed beyond your confidence level.

[Gypsy Dragon]

I think all of us here have some advice to give. Some of it may be good advice. Some of it may be relevant advice. But some of it WILL be the wrong advice. The problem is, riding is an interactive ordeal, and without actually seeing someone ride and being able to demonstrate proper technique, all the tips in the world will got you no where. I think the best thing you can do is (re)take an MSF approved course. If it is an option, find an instructor that is willing to teach you one-on-one. It is always easier to learn from a stranger than one of your buddies.

[JD Hog]

Originally Posted by Gypsy Dragon

I think all of us here have some advice to give. Some of it may be good advice. Some of it may be relevant advice. But some of it WILL be the wrong advice. The problem is, riding is an interactive ordeal, and without actually seeing someone ride and being able to demonstrate proper technique, all the tips in the world will got you no where. I think the best thing you can do is (re)take an MSF approved course. If it is an option, find an instructor that is willing to teach you one-on-one. It is always easier to learn from a stranger than one of your buddies.

Great advice Gypsy Dragon

[coffey67]

Don't over think it. Just do it. Become one with your bike.

[GIBBY]

Originally Posted by coffey67

Don't over think it. Just do it. Become one with your bike.

One of the funniest things I have ever heard was from a fellow VBA member.
After a rather challenging ride he said "you know how some days you feel like you are one with the bike? Well, today was NOT one of those days". Laughed my ass off and still do thinking about that.

[petenomad]

Choose a lower gear. Keep the revs up and the bike will feel much more stable in the curves. I rarely brake going into a curve, but by choosing a lower gear, I can use engine braking to easily control my speed entering the curve and more easily control the bike through the curve with just the throttle.

Also, remember that you can not only push down (away) on the inside bar but also pull up (towards you) on the outside bar. Perhaps this will get you more comfortable with countersteering?

[glwilson]

Better Cornering:

Sizing-up the corner
1: Choose your entry speed, braking if necessary before entry
2: Downshift to a lower gear. A gear giving you enough control to slow-down and accelerate with throttle use only.
3: Gear position also provides you with enough power to power-out of the corner, or potential problems.
4: Look to where you are going around the curve – up ahead, not right in front of the bike.
5: Enter the corner from the outside of the lane/road (far right side on a a left turn, and vice-versa on a right turn), and then move to the inside of the curve’s apex, and then back out away from the apex when leaving the corner.
6: Use acceleration when leaving the apex of the corner.

Body positioning for cornering.
The most common mistake by cruiser riders is remaining seated as if in a recliner. Taking corners safely, and most certainly at speed requires moving your body position on the bike.
1: Move your butt on the seat toward the inside of the curve so the inside edge of the seat is aligned with your butt-crack.
2: Lean your body forward over the tank and toward the inside mirror (your head will follow).
3: Keep your head straight up, perpendicular to level ground.
4: Push the inside bar (using counter-steering) to control the bike.
5: If more turn is needed, also pull inward on the outside bar.
6: If less turn is needed, simply let up on the handle-bar input.

Here is an article about proper body positioning on a racing motorcycle. This same principle holds true for cruisers and tourers (in fact all bikes), except not to the degree needed for racing.

Note the pictures showing not only the body positioning, but also the bike’s lean angle. Proper body positioning will reduce the lean angle while increasing the turn. Less leaning also allows for more room to turn if needed; while helping to avoid scraping bike pegs and etc. Bike parts scraping can cause you to crash as it can remove traction from the rear tire, causing a slide-out.

Also notice the picture attached showing the line through the bike's angle and where the body is positioned to the line. Most riders are equal (straight-up) with the line or above it (away from the low side).

A majority of the body should be at and somewhat below the line (toward the low side).

Bottom-line is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! Start slow and increase as your skill and confidence does.

https://rideapart.com/articles/10-th...r-sport-riding

[Rasta]

Good stuff Greg!!

[GIBBY]

Originally Posted by glwilson

Better Cornering:

Sizing-up the corner
1: Choose your entry speed, braking if necessary before entry
2: Downshift to a lower gear. A gear giving you enough control to slow-down and accelerate with throttle use only.
3: Gear position also provides you with enough power to power-out of the corner, or potential problems.
4: Look to where you are going around the curve – up ahead, not right in front of the bike.
5: Enter the corner from the outside of the lane/road (far right side on a a left turn, and vice-versa on a right turn), and then move to the inside of the curve’s apex, and then back out away from the apex when leaving the corner.
6: Use acceleration when leaving the apex of the corner.

Body positioning for cornering.
The most common mistake by cruiser riders is remaining seated as if in a recliner. Taking corners safely, and most certainly at speed requires moving your body position on the bike.
1: Move your butt on the seat toward the inside of the curve so the inside edge of the seat is aligned with your butt-crack.
2: Lean your body forward over the tank and toward the inside mirror (your head will follow).
3: Keep your head straight up, perpendicular to level ground.
4: Push the inside bar (using counter-steering) to control the bike.
5: If more turn is needed, also pull inward on the outside bar.
6: If less turn is needed, simply let up on the handle-bar input.

Here is an article about proper body positioning on a racing motorcycle. This same principle holds true for cruisers and tourers (in fact all bikes), except not to the degree needed for racing.

Note the pictures showing not only the body positioning, but also the bike’s lean angle. Proper body positioning will reduce the lean angle while increasing the turn. Less leaning also allows for more room to turn if needed; while helping to avoid scraping bike pegs and etc. Bike parts scraping can cause you to crash as it can remove traction from the rear tire, causing a slide-out.

Also notice the picture attached showing the line through the bike's angle and where the body is positioned to the line. Most riders are equal (straight-up) with the line or above it (away from the low side).

A majority of the body should be at and somewhat below the line (toward the low side).

Bottom-line is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! Start slow and increase as your skill and confidence does.

https://rideapart.com/articles/10-th...r-sport-riding

Great stuff Greg. Proper gear selection is so important and cannot be stressed enough.
On a typical day of riding I swear that I shift 1000 times. Riding with you I probably shift 2000 times.

[dale55]

Originally Posted by glwilson

Better Cornering:

Sizing-up the corner
1: Choose your entry speed, braking if necessary before entry
2: Downshift to a lower gear. A gear giving you enough control to slow-down and accelerate with throttle use only.
3: Gear position also provides you with enough power to power-out of the corner, or potential problems.
4: Look to where you are going around the curve – up ahead, not right in front of the bike.
5: Enter the corner from the outside of the lane/road (far right side on a a left turn, and vice-versa on a right turn), and then move to the inside of the curve’s apex, and then back out away from the apex when leaving the corner.
6: Use acceleration when leaving the apex of the corner.

Body positioning for cornering.
The most common mistake by cruiser riders is remaining seated as if in a recliner. Taking corners safely, and most certainly at speed requires moving your body position on the bike.
1: Move your butt on the seat toward the inside of the curve so the inside edge of the seat is aligned with your butt-crack.
2: Lean your body forward over the tank and toward the inside mirror (your head will follow).
3: Keep your head straight up, perpendicular to level ground.
4: Push the inside bar (using counter-steering) to control the bike.
5: If more turn is needed, also pull inward on the outside bar.
6: If less turn is needed, simply let up on the handle-bar input.

Here is an article about proper body positioning on a racing motorcycle. This same principle holds true for cruisers and tourers (in fact all bikes), except not to the degree needed for racing.

Note the pictures showing not only the body positioning, but also the bike’s lean angle. Proper body positioning will reduce the lean angle while increasing the turn. Less leaning also allows for more room to turn if needed; while helping to avoid scraping bike pegs and etc. Bike parts scraping can cause you to crash as it can remove traction from the rear tire, causing a slide-out.

Also notice the picture attached showing the line through the bike's angle and where the body is positioned to the line. Most riders are equal (straight-up) with the line or above it (away from the low side).

A majority of the body should be at and somewhat below the line (toward the low side).

Bottom-line is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! Start slow and increase as your skill and confidence does.

https://rideapart.com/articles/10-th...r-sport-riding

Wow that is excellent info. I sure appreciate everyone taking the time to answer this thread. I am going to put all the information to good use.

[Boscoe]

When I was younger, I had a couple of smaller bikes (Honda 100, and a Honda 90) that I rode in the woods, fields, and streets all over. The smaller bikes are great to learn on, because you can throw them this way and that way- they are light and move really easy. You get a feeling of how far they will lean and how your riding position and where you have your weight will make a difference. They are easy to practice and take to the limit, especially at low speeds and on grass, so if you lay it over, nothing gets hurt. To me, having lots of experience on a smaller bike just seemed to be very helpful moving up to a much heavier bike.