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Old 04-08-2016, 07:14 PM   #16
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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Originally Posted by coach View Post
Note to self: 15W fork oil, 10mm above stock level. Tapered steering bearings. Got it.
can you explain above stock level? what is the stock level now. i am about to install the progressive lowering drop in kit and they say "never add too much fluid resulting in a measurement less than 195 mm" so what mesurment should i be looking for? anyone?[/QUOTE]

The stock level is the Kawi recommended level measured down from the top of the inner tube, fully compressed and without the spring: 182 mm ± 2 mm for VN1700A (subtract 2 mm if you have the ABS model). For a progressive kit, it is probably correct to not fill above 195 mm below the top as you get more compression from the progressives, I would think. You might blow a seal if you go higher than they recommend.



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Old 07-25-2016, 05:29 PM   #17
kpmhspirit   kpmhspirit is offline
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I just found this thread. I'm going to install Garry's brace and thought I'd add a heavier oil and install progressive springs as well. I found some progressive lowering springs online but don't really want to lower the front. Does someone who has done this have a part number for the replacement fork springs I should use?

TIA
 
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:08 PM   #18
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Greetings,
It worked on the 1500 Vulcan's. Not sure about the 1700's, cut a piece of PVC about 3/4 of an inch or so long. One for each fork. Place that on top of the new spring and washer, and below the cap. That adds the inch back into the suspension...

Ride safe,
Smokier
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:16 PM   #19
kpmhspirit   kpmhspirit is offline
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Originally Posted by smokier View Post
Greetings,
It worked on the 1500 Vulcan's. Not sure about the 1700's, cut a piece of PVC about 3/4 of an inch or so long. One for each fork. Place that on top of the new spring and washer, and below the cap. That adds the inch back into the suspension...

Ride safe,
Smokier
Should work. The forks look that same configuration in both models. Good idea. Thanks,
 
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:58 AM   #20
Peg   Peg is offline
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Originally Posted by kpmhspirit View Post
I just found this thread. I'm going to install Garry's brace and thought I'd add a heavier oil and install progressive springs as well. I found some progressive lowering springs online but don't really want to lower the front. Does someone who has done this have a part number for the replacement fork springs I should use?

TIA
Talk to Garry when you buy the brace. Find out what the part numbers are for the Racetech springs and emulators he used in his own forks (and I recall that Ray did the same). Do that instead of Progressive springs, and use quality oil (not necessarily a heavier weight).

I put Progressive springs in my last two bikes, and had NZ's best bike shock shop put Racetech springs & emulators in the Voyager... This is much, much better.

My invoice shows they used RT-FRSP-S3732110 springs and RT-FEGV-S4301 emulators, with their own blend of fluid. I took the bike back and they changed out those emulators for different ones later on though, after I found them just a shade too harsh. Now, they're absolutely perfect, and an excellent match for the ridiculously expensive but well worth the money Öhlins shocks I had them put on the rear.

That shop told me that progressively wound springs are no longer the way to go. Emulators are where it's at these days.
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Last edited by Peg; 07-26-2016 at 01:02 AM.
 
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:19 AM   #21
Snake Ranch   Snake Ranch is offline
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Spring spec's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peg View Post
Talk to Garry when you buy the brace. Find out what the part numbers are for the Racetech springs and emulators he used in his own forks (and I recall that Ray did the same). Do that instead of Progressive springs, and use quality oil (not necessarily a heavier weight).

I put Progressive springs in my last two bikes, and had NZ's best bike shock shop put Racetech springs & emulators in the Voyager... This is much, much better.

My invoice shows they used RT-FRSP-S3732110 springs and RT-FEGV-S4301 emulators, with their own blend of fluid. I took the bike back and they changed out those emulators for different ones later on though, after I found them just a shade too harsh. Now, they're absolutely perfect, and an excellent match for the ridiculously expensive but well worth the money Öhlins shocks I had them put on the rear.

That shop told me that progressively wound springs are no longer the way to go. Emulators are where it's at these days.

Call Racetec and tell them what you want. There are different springs for different rider weights. They told me I needed a .95 spring set. There is a tube in the bottom of the fork tubes that needs some holes drilled in them. And the emulators come with a yellow stiff spring and two holes drilled in the center piece. To soften the ride drill two more holes in the center piece. They are partially pre-drilled. Change the yellow springs out for the blue springs that come in the kit for the emulators and tighten the nut 2 1/2 turns after the slack has been taken up on the retaining bolt and spring.

This is the rout I went and the ride is goooood. With the emulators set the way they come the ride was not much different than the stock setup.

I used 10wt oil with a friction modifier I added, and 140mm from the top of the fork tube. :tup:
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Last edited by Snake Ranch; 07-26-2016 at 04:21 AM.
 
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Old 07-29-2016, 05:03 PM   #22
kpmhspirit   kpmhspirit is offline
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Thanks for the great info Peg and Snake. Sorry for the late reply but have been on a ride to NE states. I'll definitely check it out for sure. I was not aware of these systems.

Thanks again,
 
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