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Old 06-05-2013, 11:27 AM   #121
davidhollinger   davidhollinger is offline
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Looking forward to meeting everyone coming to the SE meet and greet in September so I can comfortably insult them afterwords! Especially Kawhead!
I like the way he talks umhuhhh!
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:30 AM   #122
macmac   macmac is offline
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Originally Posted by Top Cat View Post
You can post on any thread but if Mac has you on ignore all it means is he can't read your post. So he probably did not see your apology post in the other thread. I know Mac personally and did not realize he was that sensitive but this to shall pass.



This is harder to do than you may think.
Sometimes members act tough skinned on the threads but actually go to the principle after class because their feelings get hurt.
I say if you can't take the good humored ball bustin come out and tell the person yourself in a PM. Get it sorted out man to man.
This is NOT directed at you Mac so don't get upset with me, you know I think you are a great guy.
TC will take whozyer off ignore.....

When Admin takes off the nanny and i cn say what i would say to the librarian and would face to face in a Bar.. Then i won't need a nanny or any ignore box.

These guys were my first ever on any site since I have been on line.. I am not sure I am that sensitive.

Whozyer agreed with the other guy that I barged IN and all I had done was offer assistance like any other times since coming here in 2006 i think shortly after crossing the USA.... or was I here before that because I know i was some hot about the theft of my 01..... maybe that was on the old mcusa.

The other guy stays in the box. I am sure all the data is in his library.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:32 AM   #123
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I think you are doing the right thing.
inthewind should stay inthebox
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:37 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by davidhollinger View Post
Looking forward to meeting everyone coming to the SE meet and greet in September so I can comfortably insult them afterwords! Especially Kawhead!
I like the way he talks umhuhhh!
Kawhead sure likes them french fried taters.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:57 AM   #125
macmac   macmac is offline
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Well I don't even know if I can post on this thread but I truly do apologize, and after mac's advice soaked through my thick head I am doing exactly what he said.
You are out of the box.... I have no need to tell you a thing about me. These guys have done that for me.

I have a thing about dead guys on my watch..

There is a difference on this site. On this site there are good tech heads. MAS, Yellow Jacket, Cj, CNC, BD, Tros, and more guys besides me.

Who you ask depends....on what you want to do in some cases.

I did not and can not name everyone here. That will be clear in the time you are here. One i forgot is Ring who has rebuilt his bike over as it was destroyed a couple years ago.

Anything i tell you How To is the way it makes sense to me. The same info is in the book scattered all over the pace and the book is WRONG in a few places.

That depends on which book you have.

ALL shop manuals contain errors. I have never once seen a shop manual that didn't. Sometimes the errors are so gross that they are hysterical

Like in old Chrysler marine manuals for the 1953 Chrysler 331 marine engines where one engine turns clockwise and the other turns counter clockwise, BUT both have the exact same firing order in the book.

Between the 1500 book circa 2000 and the 1600 book circa 2006 they each have errors and the 1600 book has the most.

Some things are just industry standard.. Like the inspection of the swing arm bearings and seals at 8,000 miles... The book for the 1600 has changed the industry std I guess... These are the same parts by part number as the 1500 and the 1500 uses old data from basic industry std.

Then of course if you think gear oil at 6.* ounces will last 24,000 miles with out so much as a peek. the chances are there will be NO gear oil in the final drive case is very high and that oil will be black sludge and mung.

On the other hand......

If you out as much oil in that case as the book says, you will drown the seals and get gear oil leaks, and 'just' draining off a little gear oil won't stop the leaks.
Once a seal 'drowns' by capillary action it will stay leaking until it is removed and cleaned off.
There is a Catch 22 there. You can't remove most seals and clean them off with out distorting them, so you must have a new seal on hand.

And of course the book won't mention poor engineering. The fact that the swing arm seals are used to adjust 'play' at the swing arm.

You don't know the basics but that swing arm should have 0.002 inches of play.

That is 0.001" from center each way.. The swing arm seals are used as 'Thrust Washers' which are usually made of bronze if not oiled bronze.

When the seals are worn out on their back sides you get play in 0.138" and more and that will have a effect on how the bike handles.

This is just plain bad engineering, but these days there is nothing out there that respects the right way to do things because there is such a thing as bean counters who enjoy saving 1/10th of a cent on things they have no idea about.

Another poor choice was the lack if a gasket under the tail lamp housing on the 1600's... That lack breaks paint, and once water gets under the paint we have a problem in Houston.

So this is what you don't know... I am about helping guys that just don't know because in life they know something else.

Now you KNOW you could go make a gasket to put under that lamp.. Or you can do what pleases you.... If nothing is done, someday that fender will rust out and blister the paint, and a new fender is only around 500 bucks.

Oh and the way to refill the final drive gear box is with the side stand on a hunk of 2x4, NOT having the bike straight up and level.

On most any other bikes oils are checked when the bike is up straight and level.

'WE' worked this out long ago here......
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:58 AM   #126
macmac   macmac is offline
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LOL, and they say I am long winded....
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:01 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by Kawhead View Post
Too late. Jarads already reading a river of tears' PM.
Not to mention if you look outside your window tonight, you might see him standing in the shadows and a hatchet with that sinister look in his glowing red eyes wearing war paint..

HHar' we;er comin' ta' gitchy

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Old 06-05-2013, 12:09 PM   #128
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[QUOTE=macmac;514544]You are out of the box.... I have no need to tell you a thing about me. These guys have done that for me.

If you out as much oil in that case as the book says, you will drown the seals and get gear oil leaks, and 'just' draining off a little gear oil won't stop the leaks.




Mac, are you talking about the final drive oil here? I changed mine out and think I may have put too much. When checking the brakes yesterday I noticed a film on the large nut on the axle just below the shock....Got busy and couldnt get to it at the time so I parked the bike....???
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:16 PM   #129
macmac   macmac is offline
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I think you are doing the right thing.
inthewind should stay inthebox
Inthewind IS staying in the box at least until he takes care of his actions with GWilson.. and anyone else he insulted after me.

Way back I dug clams as a wee lad to buy dead bikes. In time I became a what used to be called Master Mechanic. Bosch certified.

These 1500 and 1600 bikes run the old first out and new D jetronic Bosch injection systems from 1968. The ecu can do less now than it could back then, and the injectors are a nicer robins egg blue than they were back then. Back then you could adjust for a proper fuel mix and one mix doesn't do it all in a country where cities are from sea level to 1 mile high and roads go higher yet.

But i guess that librarian knows more about it that I ever will.. Funny I didn't see him ever talking with Stanley Parks the guy who invented D jet which IS Still the Worlds First electronic computerized fuel injection system.

I knew Stanley face to face.

D jet was used again long after foreign cars had put old D jet to sleep and i thought for good in the 80's when GM brought it back out for that Cadillac system which didn't work to run 4,6 and 8 cyls on the engine by stopping fuel to the clys that were wanted stopped.

Total hair brained engineering.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:27 PM   #130
macmac   macmac is offline
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[QUOTE=davidhollinger;514547]
Quote:
Originally Posted by macmac View Post
You are out of the box.... I have no need to tell you a thing about me. These guys have done that for me.

If you out as much oil in that case as the book says, you will drown the seals and get gear oil leaks, and 'just' draining off a little gear oil won't stop the leaks.




Mac, are you talking about the final drive oil here? I changed mine out and think I may have put too much. When checking the brakes yesterday I noticed a film on the large nut on the axle just below the shock....Got busy and couldnt get to it at the time so I parked the bike....???

Yes I was talking about too much gear oil in the final drive case.

The book will say to have the bike up straight and level fore and aft...

To fill from the big hole till oil runs out....

That is too much oil and the seals will leak. When they leak the most common place to see gear oil come from is the rubber drive shaft boot at the top end of the tube.

This is how i get long winded.

The oil gets warmed and hot even under gear friction and the level grows even higher. There is a slight pressure gassing out too, but i don't know if that tends to cause seals to leak or not, but a overly high oil level does.

So oil flows past the pinnion seals and pools on the other side at the low point of the drive shaft tube.

Thje next time you ride that oil 'slings' up the shaft and passes the tube flange where there is 4 studs and shims between the final drive case and the drive shaft tube. and continues to sling up the shaft moving up hill and pass the U Joint and still slings into the rubber boot. That boot is supposed to keep sand from getting in, not oil from getting out, and the first thing you hear / read is why is gear oil coming out my drive shaft rubber boot.

The only fix is yanking off the gear box and putting it on the bench. New seals are in order then...

Now if you just did this once the other day you can set the bike on it's side stand, and place a hunk of 2x4 under the stand and drain from the filler plug...

And I would....
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:37 PM   #131
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I'm still waiting for your apology Norm..
I'm so sorry Brad, I didn't mean to bruise your ego, your still the better looking of the twins. There is that better? , oh crap I just insulted Kris.
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:49 PM   #132
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I'm so sorry Brad, I didn't mean to bruise your ego, your still the better looking of the twins. There is that better? , oh crap I just insulted Kris.
That's it Norm....NO SOUP FOR YOU...!!
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:57 PM   #133
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I'm so sorry Kris, you know I just said that to make Brad feel better.
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:44 PM   #134
davidhollinger   davidhollinger is offline
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Mac, it was actually about 3 weeks ago. I can still go ahead and drain some off this weekend. I had a friend hold it up level and I put it in till it was at the top.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:56 PM   #135
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Mac, it was actually about 3 weeks ago. I can still go ahead and drain some off this weekend. I had a friend hold it up level and I put it in till it was at the top.
Dave I don't know what others do, but I fill mine with a large plastic hypodermic type needle minus the needle but I put a 6-8 in length of clear plastic hose on the end. I can draw it up from the container and squirt it in the diff with no mess. If you had one you could draw off a few ounces with the bike upright, put the bike on the side stand with the 2x4 and top it off with some of what you drew off. No fuss no mess.
You can usually buy these at any drug store.
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