No clutch?

[shadowcruzer]

So today I replaced the clutch diaphragm spring with a new Barnett Spring, all went well. I started it up to go for a test ride. I put it into first gear, released the clutch and nothing? I thought that everything went well, now I don't know what I messed up? Any ideas from those who have done this? Does air get into the hydraulic clutch system when doing this job? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Doug

[dshelly]

After you torqued the clutch center bolt did you try the clutch with the lever? you should have been able to see how it was working before you replaced the cover.

[baggerbob]

Is it possible that the washers didnt stick together when you were reinstalling everything?

[shadowcruzer]

I used a thin layer of grease between the washers to keep them together. Should I be able to actually see the discs move when I engage the clutch? This is a 2001 Nomad 1500 FI.

Doug

[baggerbob]

You should see movement in the spring I believe.

[dshelly]

Originally Posted by shadowcruzer

I used a thin layer of grease between the washers to keep them together. Should I be able to actually see the discs move when I engage the clutch? This is a 2001 Nomad 1500 FI.

Doug

Yes you would be able to see the clutch plates actuate. You won't see the spring because of the cover on the face of the clutch.

If it does nothing you'll have to pull the cover off and see what's going on.

[shadowcruzer]

Well, I took it apart again, checked everything, pulled in the clutch lever and saw the outer plate move. Now when I put it into gear it lurches forward and pulling in the clutch does not seem to disengage it at all? Any idea what I could be missing now?

Doug

[rolfe]

Originally Posted by shadowcruzer

Well, I took it apart again, checked everything, pulled in the clutch lever and saw the outer plate move. Now when I put it into gear it lurches forward and pulling in the clutch does not seem to disengage it at all? Any idea what I could be missing now?

Doug

Since you did not work on the Clutch Slave Cylinder areas including adding new fluids. No air issues would be there.

My guess is you are putting it together incorrectly? Check out your manuals, online pictures of parts within the area you are working.

I lay my parts out in a line on builders paper.

If your clutch worked before -
I know this is a delay ,
but re-install everything that was installed before your replacement of the new parts.

Remember you have to put everything back in exactly the order they were removed.

Check the drawings.

Take your time it will all turn out good

keep us posted

[shadowcruzer]

I guess that is my next step, I will reassemble with the old spring. It worked before but was slipping. I'm going to Canada next month and I was trying to get this cured before that. Thanks for the assistance.

Doug

[MAS Tequila]

Did you put the last disc in the offset position?

Are you absolutely certain that the limiter springs are installed )()?

It's not the spring, as long as you have the correct part, so don't waste your time putting the old one back in.

MT

[macmac]

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

Did you put the last disc in the offset position?

Are you absolutely certain that the limiter springs are installed )()?

It's not the spring, as long as you have the correct part, so don't waste your time putting the old one back in.

MT

2nd ed...

[VulcanE]

I to am willing to bet that you don't have the disc springs orientated correctly. They look like washers, but are cupped, and they should be assembled like so...........
outside ) ( ) engine side. The ")" shows the direction of the cup of the disc spring.

[shadowcruzer]

well, it looks like one of the washers slipped down the last time I assembled them. It pretty much destroyed the washer, so I am going to just replace all three of them. I removed the "big nut" with an impact wrench. It came right off. My question is on reassembly, I'm guessing that the 108 ft. lbs. is pretty critical as it can make a big difference as to how much compression there is against the washers. So how do I tighten the nut to the correct tightness without the motor and all of the gears turning? I looked at all of "the tricks" on line and I'm a little leery of jamming pennies and screws in the gears. How does the dealer tighten them to the correct torque?

Doug

[dshelly]

I made a tool like the dealer uses from a used gear. You cut a small section of gear and weld a handle to it. The tool goes in between the gears to prevent them from turning. There is a post on here somewhere about it.

Can't remember the part# for the tool. If I remember right they are like $65 or something like that. I have more of that gear left if you want me to make you one. PM me if you are interested.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by shadowcruzer

well, it looks like one of the washers slipped down the last time I assembled them. It pretty much destroyed the washer, so I am going to just replace all three of them. I removed the "big nut" with an impact wrench. It came right off. My question is on reassembly, I'm guessing that the 108 ft. lbs. is pretty critical as it can make a big difference as to how much compression there is against the washers. So how do I tighten the nut to the correct tightness without the motor and all of the gears turning? I looked at all of "the tricks" on line and I'm a little leery of jamming pennies and screws in the gears. How does the dealer tighten them to the correct torque?

Doug

Never never use an air tool to tighten anything like this, not ever. The spec is critical and you have no idea what the foot lbs spec is with an air tool and it can get far worse as the air tool can break cast steel real easy.

Next you can drill a 1/8th inch hole in a penny and tie a string to it. be sure you do that before you jam the gears with it. If you don't there us a good chance it will fall back into the back side of the gear sets and be some hard to find, much less hard to reach. U clearly don't understand you probably used an air tool but a copper clad zinc penny can some how damage a gear ?

Did you hunt around and find both oil drain backs and plug them as soon as the side cover was removed ? If you don't want crud in the crank case you have to do that first.