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Old 08-05-2016, 10:41 AM   #46
kpmhspirit   kpmhspirit is offline
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Originally Posted by Peg View Post
I assembled mine by holding the fork tube in a bench vice with a block of wood each side, and I modified the blocks of wood to securely hold my puller.
Thanks Peg. I figured you'd have an elegant solution.....

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Originally Posted by gv550 View Post
Pete, I disassemble and reassemble the forks off the bike. Just slide the metal sleeve positioner clamp up the tube about an inch from the top and clamp it down, and use it to anchor your puller. I use a 3-jaw puller, more stable.
You will be moving that clamp anyway now that the sleeves are no longer used.
Duuh, My first thought would be that the clamp wouldn't be strong enough but since you've done it, I'll try it that way..

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Originally Posted by mike07nad View Post
I had a friend helping me and we removed the caps and shock ends while they were on the bike. There is plenty of room to slide the shock in and out with out spilling any oil.
Also, since we could reach the left side (non kickstand side) triple tree easier, we did both shocks on same side of bike. - I did remove tank and lower the handle bars to access the triple tree with the Large Harbor freight puller.

Once we had the oil changed we resumed the install procedure from Garry's instructions.
One word of note: If you drop the handle bars and move any of the wires, hoses and such to the bottom of the triple tree - remember to move them back before you install the forks again. Let's just say we had to drop the front end with the tire on it to get the cables to the top of the tree. Not fun.

Good luck.
Thanks Mike. I used the smaller puller but even with that had to move the handle bars to get it in. I had planned on doing exactly what you describe (right side tt) to install the caps but I like Garry's idea too.


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Originally Posted by redjay View Post
When I remove the handlebars on any bike I use ratchet straps hung from the rafters in the garage. This keeps the bars off the tank and the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs upright, no chance of spillage.
Exactly what I do....Couple of strategically placed hooks in the car port roof work great.

Thanks for all the replies and good ideas guys. Made my job a lot more palatable now ...Just waiting for new retainers and o-rings.



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Old 08-05-2016, 10:47 AM   #47
hayes   hayes is offline
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Originally Posted by redjay View Post
When I remove the handlebars on any bike I use ratchet straps hung from the rafters in the garage. This keeps the bars off the tank and the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs upright, no chance of spillage.


This is probably the most ingenious thing I've ever heard. This is always a problem for me.


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Old 08-05-2016, 05:29 PM   #48
Peg   Peg is offline
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Originally Posted by kpmhspirit View Post
Thanks Peg. I figured you'd have an elegant solution.....
Hahaha... I actually like Garry's idea better anyway. There's not much force required to push that cap down, and the clamp will take the load easily.
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:26 AM   #49
mike07nad   mike07nad is offline
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Dang!

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Originally Posted by kpmhspirit View Post
..Just waiting for new retainers and o-rings.
You supposed to replace them - Opps!

I did run the cap and retainer through the Ultra-sonic cleaner w/simple green and put a little grease on the O-ring after I wiped it off good.
 
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:58 AM   #50
kpmhspirit   kpmhspirit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peg View Post
Hahaha... I actually like Garry's idea better anyway. There's not much force required to push that cap down, and the clamp will take the load easily.
Yeah, after I got it apart and looked at it, you could almost pick the whole bike up with it.... It's pretty robust.



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Old 08-06-2016, 11:01 AM   #51
kpmhspirit   kpmhspirit is offline
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Originally Posted by mike07nad View Post
You supposed to replace them - Opps!

I did run the cap and retainer through the Ultra-sonic cleaner w/simple green and put a little grease on the O-ring after I wiped it off good.
According to the service manual, you're supposed to replace both. You shouldn't have any issues though...I thought about doing the same thing but I had time since I was doing other stuff to the bike so I ordered them.
 
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:06 PM   #52
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Garry... I've been following this thread and am interested in your fork brace. Do you make a brace for a 2002, 1500 Nomad fi ?

Thanks, David
 
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:43 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Kawalski Rider View Post
Garry... I've been following this thread and am interested in your fork brace. Do you make a brace for a 2002, 1500 Nomad fi ?

Thanks, David
Yes I do, private message sent.
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:28 PM   #54
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Hi All

Does anybody know the size of the fork boots/gaiters required after installing the brace onto a 2014 VN1700 Voyager Custom (Vaquero in the US)?
 
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Old 11-28-2017, 04:28 PM   #55
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Hi All

Does anybody know the size of the fork boots/gaiters required after installing the brace onto a 2014 VN1700 Voyager Custom (Vaquero in the US)?
Hi Paul, info on the fork boots is included with your install instructions. Your fork tubes are 45 mm but I don't know of any boots that large, so the boots I suggest are 41 mm, they stretch easy enough and fit well.
I've been following your brace shipment online but no updates since the 25th, it does appear it is in England and cleared customs, hopefully you will have it soon.
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:19 PM   #56
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Where in the U.K are you Spud ?
 
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:20 AM   #57
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Sorry for the late reply Garry. Brace received in good time, now powder coat painted and ready to go on.

Radjay, I'm up in East Yorkshire
 
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:37 AM   #58
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Has anyone any experience of fitting a larger front wheel whilst keeping the fork brace on or even if it is possible. I was thinking maybe a larger wheel would fit within the stock fender with a lower profile tyre
 
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Old 03-18-2018, 10:56 AM   #59
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Has anyone any experience of fitting a larger front wheel whilst keeping the fork brace on or even if it is possible. I was thinking maybe a larger wheel would fit within the stock fender with a lower profile tyre
If you keep the stock fender in the stock location you can obviously use the brace. I have read of Vaquero owners installing a 17 inch wheel with low profile tire under the stock fender, but most aftermarket large wheel kits come with fender re-location brackets so that won't work.
The brace clears the stock fender by only 2 mm.
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2011 1700 Nomad
Improve handling, suspension and tire life
with Garry's Fork Brace.
PM for details.
 
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:00 PM   #60
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I am installing the fork brace after changing the steering bearing and new fork oil, is there any reason to keep the Fork Cover Clamps? I do not plan on running boots, are these needed as "bump stops"?
 
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