chucksters air kit install vaquero

[chuckster131]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Hammer

Joe,

Any chance you will be offering a Trim Plate to fill the space formerly occupied by the Left Side Air Filter Assembly?
It wouldn't have to be chrome plated like your "nameless" competitor's version.
A Black, Wrinkle finish would probably look good on most 1700's and should cost less.

I ask, because the area formerly covered by the Left Air Filter Assembly is rather unfinished in appearance and various hoses are exposed.

There is also the issue of added noise, which a Trim Plate may help to dampen.

Thanks in advance!

Been thinking of making something for that side. Need to sit down and ponder the thoughts.

[Vulcan Hammer]

Joe,

Once your kit arrives at my door, I'll have a better idea of the dimensions and space available. I may do a mock-up plate from 1/4" thick textured black ABS.

I could then send you a .dwg format AutoCAD Drawing of what might work for you to review (unless you'd prefer another drawing format?).

[chuckster131]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Hammer

Joe,

Once your kit arrives at my door, I'll have a better idea of the dimensions and space available. I may do a mock-up plate from 1/4" thick textured black ABS.

I could then send you a .dwg format AutoCAD Drawing of what might work for you to review (unless you'd prefer another drawing format?).

Perfect a .dwg .dxf or cadl file will work

[cheriann]

Originally Posted by RACNRAY

Engines are air pumps, get more air in, combine that air with the right amount of fuel, burn it and get that stuff and out as effiecently as possible and the engine WILL make more power.

The main restrictions on the 1700's are the exhaust and the intake systems. Reduce restriction in either area and the engine will make more power.

OK, installing a set of slip-ons reduces back pressure (aka restriction) in the exhaust and the engine will make more power. Install a BAK and by reducing the air flow restriction within the intake system the engine will make more power. The installation of a freer-flowing intake on a skoot with stock exhaust will allow the engine to make more power, but the potential power gains of that BAK will be limited by the stock exhaust. In other words you will not get the full benifits and potential of a BAK with the stock exhaust as would be had with a freer flowing exhaust.

SO....if you "need" more power, then a BAK will allow the engine to make more power by gettin more air in. Then we have the necessity of tuning the fuel injection to provide the proper air/fuel ration for best performance.

HOPE THIS HELPS

RACNRAY

Thank you SO MUCH!!!! You really do explain things so that I can understand!!! I think for now I will just stick with your AWESOME throttle fix!!!

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by chuckster131

Perfect a .dwg .dxf or cadl file will work

Joe,
here's a few of the dimensions I've thrown together to design something. I've got a couple ideas of a design to cut out in the blank space, but I left that off to share on here.
These basic dims should get you something to start with. I've got some cool stuff in mind!
I haven't confirmed if these hole locations are accurate enough to use flat head cap screws, but from my cardboard templates made from this I'm positive anything else will work. - There will be a spacer needed behind the hole at the rear cylinder, those are not on the same plane.

[Vulcan Hammer]

Joe,

I didn't have time to apply dimensions yet, but here are some of my noodlings...

[Vulcan Hammer]

Joe,

Here are some more refined concepts to consider.
I'm somewhat partial to A or B.

I could not attach the fully dimensioned versions due to file size restrictions.
I'll have to e-mail the .pdf and .dwg files directly.

Dave

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Hammer

Joe,

Here are some more refined concepts to consider.
I'm somewhat partial to A or B.

I could not attach the fully dimensioned versions due to file size restrictions.
I'll have to e-mail the .pdf and .dwg files directly.

Dave

Lookin' Good

[Vulcan Hammer]

Here's a plastic mock-up fill plate I just made and tested.
I'm not convinced that these are the aesthetics I want to keep on my bike, but my testing indicates that a fill plate actually improves Chuckster's otherwise excellent product. It is very difficult to simulate louver slots or ball milling with a jig saw!

It actually makes a difference in sound! I swear there has been an improvement.

With the fill plate there is less engine noise and it seems to be eliminating most of the "air hammering" I heard at certain rpm (don't ask me how it does this!)

Acceleration now seems smoother if you can believe it! Possibly because it may prevent air from eddying in the space between the cylinders and reverberating there. The BAK is now forced to get cooler air mainly from the right side.

Before the fill plate I was also getting an occasional chirping sound from the right side under hard acceleration, but that is gone now! I cannot explain that result either, but I gladly accept it.

Now if only someone we all know could make me a proper alloy version...

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by Vulcan Hammer

Here's a plastic mock-up fill plate I just made and tested.
I'm not convinced that these are the aesthetics I want to keep on my bike, but my testing indicates that a fill plate actually improves Chuckster's otherwise excellent product. It is very difficult to simulate louver slots or ball milling with a jig saw!

It actually makes a difference in sound! I swear there has been an improvement.

With the fill plate there is less engine noise and it seems to be eliminating most of the "air hammering" I heard at certain rpm (don't ask me how it does this!)

Acceleration now seems smoother if you can believe it! Possibly because it may prevent air from eddying in the space between the cylinders and reverberating there. The BAK is now forced to get cooler air mainly from the right side.

Before the fill plate I was also getting an occasional chirping sound from the right side under hard acceleration, but that is gone now! I cannot explain that result either, but I gladly accept it.

Now if only someone we all know could make me a proper alloy version...

I get that chirping too. ??? Interesting findings. That's not a bad looking prototype

[chuckster131]

Once we finalize the rendering I will run a few on my machine and send them for plating.

[Vulcan Hammer]

Originally Posted by jestephens

I get that chirping too.

Thanks for the compliment on a crude mock-up ;)

I know of a fellow experiencing the "Chirp" with the similar Thunder Stock Air Kit.

I cannot say if it is a strictly mechanical issue or if it somehow relates to air flow.

If it is mechanical, it could be related to the fact that the new plate on which the Stock Air Cover mounts, is strictly supported by the throttle body face. It is no longer supported by additional studs on the engine itself like the stock air box was. NOTE: This is the case with almost every BAK made.

Acceleration is accompanied by a certain amount of vibration and shake which may be causing something to "chirp"...it could be the contact point between the K&N and the stock cover, or it could be the contact points between the stock cover and the four mounting studs. Could anything else in the throttle body vibrate now that it has less structural support?

Now, if the "chirp" relates to Air Flow, an area in which I can only speculate...could "intake reversion" due to the radically shortened intake tract cause the butterflies to flutter? Is the removal of the stock velocity tubes causing the air to "Chirp" or "Whistle" as it flows into the twin throttle bores? Note: Practically every BAK ever made has a radically shortened intake tract compared to stock.

Is there any way to test or confirm any of these theories and speculations?

[stoutman]

Chuckster’s big air mod installation.

I received Chuckster’s Big Air Kit yesterday less than a week after I mailed him the check. I was impressed with his customer service so I thought I would do a write up on the installation on my 2012 Voyager, and give my feed back on the product.

The Purchase
First, the customer experience was great. I checked out the web site and read about the kit. Then I hit the “Contact Us” button and left him my e-mail and phone number. Joe called me back within 2 hours. I spoke to him for a short time asking questions before I decided to buy the kit. Joe accepts money orders, checks and PayPal. Given the fees associated with money orders and PayPal I decided to send him a check.

I received an e-mail when the product shipped with a tracking number. The package arrived within two days after it was shipped.

The Kit
This kit is complete. You get the throttle body plate, K&N Air filter, a length of vacuum hose, all the necessary hardware, and an instruction sheet. The instructions were good enough to get the job done. One sentence was a little obtuse but there was nothing I couldn’t figure out. I liked that the instructions were in large print. My over 40 eyes don’t see the small stuff as well as they used to.

Disassembly of the factory air setup was straight forward. I had everything off in about 15 minutes. Once I took this thing apart I could see what everybody was complaining about in Kawasaki’s design. The factory draws air off the top left of the engine, where it is about as hot as it can be. It then goes through a rather smallish filter, through a plastic duct between the two cylinders, and into the throttle body on the right side. The air box is big and clunky, but well made. The throttle body side has what looks like mini velocity stacks. The whole assembly probably weighs 5 pounds and has about 20 different fasteners. It seems to be designed to reduce intake noise first and filter the air as an afterthought.

Putting the kit on was also straight forward. The only thing that slowed me down was finding my blue Locktite, and de-burring one hole on the adaptor plate so the screw would rotate in easily. Everything in Joe’s kit fit well.

Installing the air filter was the only awkward part of the process. The round K&N fits in a grove machined into the plate that attaches to the throttle body. If the filter is in backwards it feel like nothing holds it in place while you try to put the Kawasaki dog bowl over it and start the four screws that hold the dog bowl in place. Of course I had it backwards. A member of this forum pointed that out and suggest I pull it back apart and check, and I'm glad I did. Once I had the filter positioned with the square side toward the throttle body plate, it stayed in place for me to put the dog bowl on.

Intake noise
The bike is louder with this kit in place. At first I did not re-install the left side air box, filter, and dog bowl. After my first ride I put it back on to see if it helped cut down on the noise and it did. Now the little extra noise is only noticeable under acceleration, and the bike quiets down while cruising. I didn’t hear any chirps or rattles, only a big twin sucking in more air than it has ever had before.

Performance
It was hard to tell at first if I received any performance gain. The butt dyno didn’t give me a solid answer. Then I took a run shifting with the RPMs a little higher. The bike seems to like the higher revs now. I can cruise at 2500 - 3000 RPM and it seems to be smoother and less frenzied than before. The only thing I notice is a bit of a dead spot between 3000 and 3500 RPM at lower throttle levels. When accelerating the bike likes the higher power setting at those RPM. The bike seems to run a bit cooler. The left dog bowl does not even get warm, and the right dog bowl runs cooler than it did. Overall I feel less heat from the engine with this kit in place.

RACNRAY posted some dyno charts that show improvement with this kit and the Cobra Tri-ovals. I guess I know what I'm buying next. I always expected that I’d have to do the slip on exhaust and power commander to see the full effect. Kind of wish I was closer to Florida so I could have RACNRAY give it the final tune with everything else is bolted on. I have been told of a good shop not far from home that will be getting my business in the near future.

Conclusion
This kit is everything it I expected, and good quality at that. I didn’t expect a supercharger effect. It is obvious that the bike breaths a little easier, and is getting air that is a little cooler. I think the kit is a good value. I am very pleased overall.

Thank you Mr. Norris for a well made, good fitting mod kit.

[Vulcan Hammer]

Stoutman,

I struggled a bit too getting the filter seated in the groove on the backing plate, but once it's in there, it is held securely. The K&N tends to get a bit out of round in transit, so be patient and make sure it is seated. Once it is, you do not have to worry about holding it in place as you attach the air cover.

If I were you, I would take the cover off and make sure it is seated completely in the groove, otherwise it may not be sealing properly. The square edge of the filter goes in the groove, and the tapered/conical face goes against the cover. It also helps to use some high-temp grease on the tapered face for a good seal against the cover.

Initially, I too thought that there might not be as much power as I had hoped, but I was wrong. You just have to relearn your shift points and not be afraid to rev it. Most of the added power is above 3000 to 3500 rpm.

Enjoy!

[shivanurse]

I had the exact same experience with the filter but Joe talked me through and it is on fine now. At first i wasn't sure about performance either but i realized i had a whole new power band in the higher RPM's very cool!!!!!