Drive shaft noise

furok · 10-22-2023, 06:46 PM

I have a 2002 1500 Drifter. It has 52000 miles on it. I recently changed the oil both in the case (with a filter replacement as well) and the drive shaft. After much reading online I decided to try synthetic in both. They both have only had conventional oil in them before. It is the first time I have replaced the drive shaft oil since I have owned the bike. I don’t know when it was replaced before I owned it. So, it could easily have been 30000 miles (or never) since the drive shaft oil was replaced. I replace the case oil every 3000 miles.
I used 10-40 in the case and 75-90 gear oil in the drive shaft.

Now for the problem and questions for you all. A few days later I took the bike on a long ride. After I stopped to fill the bike up with gas I pulled out, sped up to 55mph and then had to slow down for a light. When I disengaged the clutch (I pulled the lever in) I heard a sound that I couldn’t identify. I would describe it as a low pitch, but a lot like the sound you would get by sticking a baseball card in your tire spokes as a kid. When the clutch was engaged (released) the sound went away. I rode it a little farther and the same thing happened whenever the clutch was disengaged, and I was moving at speeds above 45mph.
I decided to get towed home.
I have also been able to get the bike to make the noise when in every gear except 1st. I can get it to do it in neutral but only if I am going over 45mph. It is also somewhat random. It doesn’t do it every time in every gear. It always does it in 4 and 5 once the bike is hot. The bike must be moving to make the noise. I cannot reproduce the noise if the bike is at rest no matter how hot the engine is.
Over the next 2 weeks here is what I have done:
1. Replaced the case oil with conventional 10-40 – NO CHANGE.
2. Replaced the drive shaft oil with 75-140 (still synthetic) – NO CHANGE.
3. Checked all the bolts around the engine, exhaust, etc. can’t find any loose bolts to cause a rattle of any kind.
4. Raised the back tire off the ground to check for any play – NO PLAY, nice and firm.
5. Raised back tire, put it in neutral, and spun the tire – no sound at all (other than brake pads rubbing on disk).

And the last time I rode the bike I was able to hear the sound for a fraction of a second when I released the throttle but not disengaging the clutch. I hadn’t noticed that before, but I also don’t know that I was specifically listening for it before so it may have been doing it.

I am pretty sure it is drive shaft related and not clutch related. I am also pretty sure it isn’t the front bevel gear or u-joint since there is no sound when I spin the tire in neutral and no wobble at all while riding or when the tire is up in the air.

Does anyone have any ideas? Could it be that the rear bevel gears at the rear tire have gotten slightly out of alignment? Is that a hard fix? Engine work isn’t a problem for me (I have done the top end on this bike engine before).

Thank you all!

andyvh1959 · 11-04-2023, 10:53 AM

Dino oil or synthetic oil, as you found out, has no effect on the issue, and it would never cause a noise like you describe. Also, if the Kawwy manual says to use 80W90 final drive oil, use that. Do not use much heavier 75W140, as it may be too thick when hot to adequately flow into gear teeth clearances when under load. Kawwy suggest IF, when changing the oil, if you noticed a furry metal mess on the drain plug or in the oil drained out, then it would indicate an internal issue in the rear drive hub. When you say "driveshaft oil" you really mean rear drive hub oil. the driveshaft on the VN1500/VN1600 runs dry in the swingarm.

The sound may be driveshaft noise, though driveshafts on the VN1500/VN1600 are not known to have issues unless the bike has real high miles on it, which your bike only has average miles on it for the model year. That's not to say that for the miles it could not be the front driveshaft u-joint. On the link below is a section for servicing the u-joint. The front driveshaft bevel gear is another known noise source, when the bearing is nearing its service life. Since you say the noise occurs mostly when you actuate the clutch lever, I'd also suspect the bevel gear bearing, and next the clutch itself, which could be the throwout bearing in the clutch.

When you pull in the clutch the throwout bearing is loaded by the action of pressing in the throwout rod. If the throwout bearing is worn or has play it can emit noise. When the clutch lever is out, clutch engaged, the throwout bearing has little load against it if any at all. So I suspect the bevel gear bearing and/or the clutch throwout bearing.

You can find out a lot here: https://gadgetsfixitpage.com/
There is a section on driveshaft repair, and about accessing the front of the driveshaft to lube the u-joint. That also clues you how to access the u-joint area to check for abnormalities.

DragonLady58 · 11-18-2023, 05:24 PM

What he said! Also, remember, if we're going by noise being made....the driveshaft is gonna make a steady upward sound as the driveshaft rpm and road speed increases (whether it be a buzzing, clinking, whirring, or a low knocking). maybe, even possibly the bevel gear....remember, this bevel module is the very last thing to receive oil.

If the noise just rises and falls, its either on the clutch side....could possibly be the clutch, either in the clutch cup spring, end of the pushrod if its been overheated or put in backwards, possibly even the clutch basket. That is, if its a steady up and down steady sound....
Just figured I'd throw that in, if your trying to run down this noise. Sometimes, they can be very elusive....

furok · 11-20-2023, 06:07 PM

Sorry i missed these postings. I never got an alert for them. Thank you for the insight. I took to in to get diagnosed and they said u-joint. Took it home, tore it apart, and sure enough the u-joint was coming part. Badly!
So I have a new drive shaft (propeller shaft) on order and will install it once I have it.

I hope that it is the only issue. I am really hoping it isn't bevel gears or clutch, and that the noise will be gone once I get it all replaced.

redjay · 11-20-2023, 07:51 PM

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Chuck A. · 11-20-2023, 09:51 PM

I don't know about the 1500 Drifter and Classic but my 2003 Nomad rear diff input shaft had a weep hole for the diff fluid to get lube to the shaft/pinion coupler. If yours is dry put moly grease in the splines.

10-22-2023, 06:46 PM	#1
furok Jr. Member Join Date: Oct 2023 Posts: 2	Drive shaft noise I have a 2002 1500 Drifter. It has 52000 miles on it. I recently changed the oil both in the case (with a filter replacement as well) and the drive shaft. After much reading online I decided to try synthetic in both. They both have only had conventional oil in them before. It is the first time I have replaced the drive shaft oil since I have owned the bike. I don’t know when it was replaced before I owned it. So, it could easily have been 30000 miles (or never) since the drive shaft oil was replaced. I replace the case oil every 3000 miles. I used 10-40 in the case and 75-90 gear oil in the drive shaft. Now for the problem and questions for you all. A few days later I took the bike on a long ride. After I stopped to fill the bike up with gas I pulled out, sped up to 55mph and then had to slow down for a light. When I disengaged the clutch (I pulled the lever in) I heard a sound that I couldn’t identify. I would describe it as a low pitch, but a lot like the sound you would get by sticking a baseball card in your tire spokes as a kid. When the clutch was engaged (released) the sound went away. I rode it a little farther and the same thing happened whenever the clutch was disengaged, and I was moving at speeds above 45mph. I decided to get towed home. I have also been able to get the bike to make the noise when in every gear except 1st. I can get it to do it in neutral but only if I am going over 45mph. It is also somewhat random. It doesn’t do it every time in every gear. It always does it in 4 and 5 once the bike is hot. The bike must be moving to make the noise. I cannot reproduce the noise if the bike is at rest no matter how hot the engine is. Over the next 2 weeks here is what I have done: 1. Replaced the case oil with conventional 10-40 – NO CHANGE. 2. Replaced the drive shaft oil with 75-140 (still synthetic) – NO CHANGE. 3. Checked all the bolts around the engine, exhaust, etc. can’t find any loose bolts to cause a rattle of any kind. 4. Raised the back tire off the ground to check for any play – NO PLAY, nice and firm. 5. Raised back tire, put it in neutral, and spun the tire – no sound at all (other than brake pads rubbing on disk). And the last time I rode the bike I was able to hear the sound for a fraction of a second when I released the throttle but not disengaging the clutch. I hadn’t noticed that before, but I also don’t know that I was specifically listening for it before so it may have been doing it. I am pretty sure it is drive shaft related and not clutch related. I am also pretty sure it isn’t the front bevel gear or u-joint since there is no sound when I spin the tire in neutral and no wobble at all while riding or when the tire is up in the air. Does anyone have any ideas? Could it be that the rear bevel gears at the rear tire have gotten slightly out of alignment? Is that a hard fix? Engine work isn’t a problem for me (I have done the top end on this bike engine before). Thank you all! Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by furok; 10-22-2023 at 06:58 PM.
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11-04-2023, 10:53 AM	#2
andyvh1959 Advanced Member Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Green Bay WI Posts: 755	Dino oil or synthetic oil, as you found out, has no effect on the issue, and it would never cause a noise like you describe. Also, if the Kawwy manual says to use 80W90 final drive oil, use that. Do not use much heavier 75W140, as it may be too thick when hot to adequately flow into gear teeth clearances when under load. Kawwy suggest IF, when changing the oil, if you noticed a furry metal mess on the drain plug or in the oil drained out, then it would indicate an internal issue in the rear drive hub. When you say "driveshaft oil" you really mean rear drive hub oil. the driveshaft on the VN1500/VN1600 runs dry in the swingarm. The sound may be driveshaft noise, though driveshafts on the VN1500/VN1600 are not known to have issues unless the bike has real high miles on it, which your bike only has average miles on it for the model year. That's not to say that for the miles it could not be the front driveshaft u-joint. On the link below is a section for servicing the u-joint. The front driveshaft bevel gear is another known noise source, when the bearing is nearing its service life. Since you say the noise occurs mostly when you actuate the clutch lever, I'd also suspect the bevel gear bearing, and next the clutch itself, which could be the throwout bearing in the clutch. When you pull in the clutch the throwout bearing is loaded by the action of pressing in the throwout rod. If the throwout bearing is worn or has play it can emit noise. When the clutch lever is out, clutch engaged, the throwout bearing has little load against it if any at all. So I suspect the bevel gear bearing and/or the clutch throwout bearing. You can find out a lot here: https://gadgetsfixitpage.com/ There is a section on driveshaft repair, and about accessing the front of the driveshaft to lube the u-joint. That also clues you how to access the u-joint area to check for abnormalities. Last edited by andyvh1959; 11-04-2023 at 11:09 AM.
	1

11-18-2023, 05:24 PM	#3
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	What he said! Also, remember, if we're going by noise being made....the driveshaft is gonna make a steady upward sound as the driveshaft rpm and road speed increases (whether it be a buzzing, clinking, whirring, or a low knocking). maybe, even possibly the bevel gear....remember, this bevel module is the very last thing to receive oil. If the noise just rises and falls, its either on the clutch side....could possibly be the clutch, either in the clutch cup spring, end of the pushrod if its been overheated or put in backwards, possibly even the clutch basket. That is, if its a steady up and down steady sound.... Just figured I'd throw that in, if your trying to run down this noise. Sometimes, they can be very elusive.... __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Last edited by DragonLady58; 11-18-2023 at 05:26 PM.
	1

11-20-2023, 07:51 PM	#5
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,927	https://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/...ad.php?t=17405 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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11-20-2023, 09:51 PM	#6
Chuck A. Advanced Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Hartselle Alabama Posts: 989	I don't know about the 1500 Drifter and Classic but my 2003 Nomad rear diff input shaft had a weep hole for the diff fluid to get lube to the shaft/pinion coupler. If yours is dry put moly grease in the splines. __________________ Have A Good One, Chuck Patriot Guard Riders Sons Of Liberty Riders Alabama Road Captain 2015 Voyager 2003 1500 NOMAD FI sold 6/19 VBA #2993 RUSSELL DAYLONG SEATS ROCK!! DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs There is no substitute for laminar flow in which a helmet is the primary disturbance. SO MANY ROADS, SO LITTLE TIME.
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11-20-2023, 06:07 PM	#4
furok Jr. Member Join Date: Oct 2023 Posts: 2	Sorry i missed these postings. I never got an alert for them. Thank you for the insight. I took to in to get diagnosed and they said u-joint. Took it home, tore it apart, and sure enough the u-joint was coming part. Badly! So I have a new drive shaft (propeller shaft) on order and will install it once I have it. I hope that it is the only issue. I am really hoping it isn't bevel gears or clutch, and that the noise will be gone once I get it all replaced.
	1