rear wheel question

[sarc]

thank you very much, we'll keep you posted.

[macmac]

For all I care you can copy a test for yourself using my photobucket. If you do, and it is totally out of context, after you see it, you can delete it here on this site. I noticed you have no problem deleting things

[sarc]

nice one, felt it right between the shoulder blades...lol I wanna remove my swing arm but the bolt is stuck. any tricks? I have about 1/4" play. it looks like it off the thread on the left side.

[sarc]

got the dam thing out this morning. used a paint can opener, slid the hook behind the bolt and use air gun at low speed, with lots of liquid wrench. everything was rusted in.

cleaned it all up and will put it back in tomorow. how much grease should I put in there? and do I grease up the drive shaft spleens and how much?

thanks for your time mac. if you ever want to visit the eastern side of canada (maritimes) your welcome to stay over and have a few brewskis...

[macmac]

LOL How many miles about on this bike? Do you mean to say the swing saw no service till now?

That thar wuz no dammned GREASE in there!

That you had 1/4" of play/ slop at the swingarn pivot bolt!

Imagine that

No surprise to me at all. :(

Get a barn bucket under that bike. With out opening the brake hydralics get the swing arm to look like this.


On the way there you will find this pin at the top of the drive shaft.


DO NOT loose it!

What to do is while the swing arm is blocked up on the bucket, with no bolt, slide it back some.

turn the drive shaft to locate the pin hole. When you have stuff behind the shaft into the engine opening a nice big rag.

Then with a pin punch ( long skinny screw) push the pin IN, and slip the driveshaft back slow. WATCH the hell out that pin doesn't pop out and get lost! The rag will keep it from falling inside the engine case!!!

PUT that pin on sticky tape so it won't get lost!

Then you can turn the swingarm still on the bucket as shown. Then you can pull the shaft out and clean it up.

Get everthing cleaned first and visually inspected.

With CV Joint moly grease lube all splines inside and out.

Inspect for gear oil my smell at the rear gears box pinion shaft.

If you can smell sweet sulfer the seal at the pinion shaft is leaking. Get a seal and tear out the old one with 2 skinny screw drivers. With a helper it is easier to install that seal if you must. I like a helper here, and use 2 drifts, which I hold in both hands opposite each other, and have my helper tap with a light hammer to drive this seal in place. No deeper than it was and there is no land to land the seal on either!

Both the pinon spline and that end of the shaft get moly grease, as do both on the engine end..

The swing arm tubes should be cheaned, both of them.

The one with the long bolt should be greased with marine grade stiff grease for chassis and wheel bearings.

Once more you are greasing the long bolt tube it self, then all sides of all spacers inside outside and the ends, then the bearings, and last a thin coating on the bolt, including the threads.

'IF' you want to be fancy with the swing arm dead empty install it with just the long bolt and torque that to 80 ft pounds. Of course you have 2 new seals in it.

Lift it several times, and then see if you can push it away and then pull it back at you several more times.

The next step if you do is to measure the slop, and then make up a creative bit of something to eliminate all but 0.002 " of that slop.

Maybe the old seals can be cut up for this, and maybe not.. This was an idea that came to me about a week ago.

The spacers you make need to fit over the spacers the same as the seals do, but they should be a little more OD than the seals are 'probably'.

The inner one which is 1/2 the total will bew the devils own work to install, since the outter one (closest to you will have already been installed first).

The wheel female splines get moly grease as do the make gear box seals.

The shock upper and lower bushing should get rubber lube at this time.

The shock acorns and 4 shafttube to gear box acorns have different OD. Tye shock are 17mm, while the gear box acorns are 14mm. Do not mix these up, as the thread size is 10mm on both sets!

At the shaft to gear box, smear a light film of antiseize on the flange, and do not let wind blow dirt on that surface.

Smear antiseize on the 4 studs there too, to prevent water from getting in to these threads!

[macmac]

I have a bad connection.... wanted that much on, before it got wiped put.

Inspect the upper engine side spline inside, and make sure the band spring is not near the pin hole opening! I had heard horror stories about one end of the band spring too close to the hole and the pin falling in!

Pack that bolt and area with as much stiff grease as you can. It will take up some slop and it will slow the action of side to side play.

The type of bearings used is wrong in application and they should have been taper rollers, with pre-load adjusting lock nuts.. They are not and there is little to be done, other than custom make thrust washers.

Ma kawii won't even discuss it, but you are welcomed to try..... The aim is 0.002" slop. What ever you get will be a larger gap than that... Don't worry about not enough.

How far is Sydney from you? And like wise anytime you git west to New Hampster sing out..

I am central N/S and hard up on Maine...east

[sarc]

thanks alot for the detailed instructions. I'll keep you posted. I'm in Greenwood,NS which is about 61/2 hours west of Sidney. or 1/12 hour north west of Halifax. Its in the Anapolis Valley. that where the Air Force Base is.

cheers

[jamiep24]

Well, here's a phantom question...

[macmac]

Well, here's a phantom answer

[sharps45100]

Mac I have a question about the swing arm lube. Why must you get new seals, can't you grease without taking seals out? Am I missing something here. Will be doing this soon as my rear tire is almost worn and will be putting my CT on. I've seen your posts telling people to do the swing arm and drive shaft and beleive me I'm going to. Want my bike to last a very long time.

[macmac]

Originally Posted by sharps45100

Mac I have a question about the swing arm lube. Why must you get new seals, can't you grease without taking seals out? Am I missing something here. Will be doing this soon as my rear tire is almost worn and will be putting my CT on. I've seen your posts telling people to do the swing arm and drive shaft and beleive me I'm going to. Want my bike to last a very long time.

There are many reasons you can't reuse the old seals.

The first reason is the back side you last drive in to place acts as a thrust washer, and so the back side of the seal wears out, rubbing on the frame, as the swing arm slides side to side in each curve you ever rode.

There is no good way to install a zerk fitting, with out lots of machine work and even then it is high doubtfull that you would inject grease and get it to any place you want it.

The drive shaft spline top and bottom must also be greased with a moly grease, as well as the gear box spline to rear wheel.

It is very important to KNOW if you have a good or bad U Joint.

The factory has a on going fubar problem where 1 plane in the U joint gets no grease, because the joint is air bound.

There is no way to know if you have a good or bad joint with out checking it.

I had a bad U joint on my 01 and not on my 06.. Thar's just no tellin if what you got has any dammned grease!

The long pivot bolt holding the swing arm on the bike needs another stiff marine grease IMO. This would be used on the swing arm end bearings, all sides of the 3 spacers, inside wall of the swing arm tube, all sides of the long bolt.

Every single surface in the swing arm tube should be greased up hard, which will take up some space and reduce swing arm slop.

Now my 06 U joint was a good one, but the rest of this had nearly no grease at all. The 3 spacers in the swing arm tube were rusty all over inside and outside and the ends were too! That was with 9,000 miles when I changed the rear tire.

The driveshaft splines had slug what little moly lube there was away too.

The swingarm bearings retained a stingy smidgen of grease some sort of white lube I guess..

The 1600's need a dob of moly grease in the top shock mounts too, as there is needle bearings there, and the bottoms should get a dob of rubber lube.

The 4 acorn nuts to rear gear box should get a good dose of antiseize. Water had entered mine and the studs were turning white from galvanic action, a sort of pre rust..

You will also need no matter what kind of exhaust system 2 head to head pipe gaskets.. These studs should be serviced at this time too.

I wire brush mine by hand (no power tools) Then mask off where the nuts will be, and use rattle can hi temp flat black misted into the cap from the rattle can, and apply it with a small water color brush (El Cheapo)

Anti seize the stud threads where the nuts will go last.

This is in hope of preserving the studs.

Of course the chrome will burn off these acorn nuts in time and so I have replaced mine with stainless, and polished them to appear to be chrome on a buffing wheel.

You will need a new cotter pin for the rear axel and it might as well be stainless too.

'IF' you have a stock exhaust, this IS the time to replace the rubber goat bladder mounts as these will have started to cook, and the bolt will have started to rust and heat seize into the mounts.

When I do any work at all I go thru every bit of it and make it all right, and sometimes better than right.

With a CT on my rear it might well be 20,000 miles before I go back in there for a thing.

Several guys are working out a way to make thrust washers in different materials. These would fit the spacers in the swingarm tube outside the seals.

The ID would be the seals ID, the OD would be larger than the seals OD. The thickness will depend on what slop is with grease and new seals installed.

What ever the slop is. then would be divided by 2 and that would be how thick each thrust washer would be.

No bike is going to match another bike as the tolerances for swing arms in general is really wide.

[sharps45100]

Ok thanks alot for the info. Now I need to ask what is rubber lube? And for the peanut galley out there I know its not KY jelly!!!!...LOL

[Yellow Jacket]

You can get a spray can of silicone rubber bushing lube at most auto stores.

[sharps45100]

Ahh ok thank you Yellow Jacket!

[macmac]

Any auto parts store will have a squeeze tube of rubber lube/ rubber grease, as well as silicon sprays. The grease type will stay in place a lot longer.

Uses are for rubber cups and seals on hydralics, like master and slave cylinders, shock mounts where no bearings are present, and etc.