Over torqued the Oil Drain Plug

[rlfaubion]

May you benefit by my heavy-handedness. When tightening the oil drain plug, don't torque it beyond 20lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench, and while I still claim innocence, the threads were stripped in the aluminum engine casing. I will have it repaired on Friday. More than $100 mistake.

Nomad down, Classic up - put a new battery in to run the Classic, and the ride is different as day and night (I'd forgotten). Skullatore is fast as hell, but not near as sweet handling as the Bopper. Nor is it close to as comfortable. Harley Road King handlebars, stock seat, and no windshield. Thought I was gonna blow off that sucker this morning.

Be EZ with your wrenches ma brutha's and sista's.....

[dantama]

I may have done the same thing on my 99, though I tend to think the dealer did.

I did most of my own oil changes, but had it into the dealer for a clutch and he said to be careful, the plug is only in with a few threads when I went to pick it up.

When I went to take the oil filler cap off, it was torqued down so tight that it bent the Kawi tool that takes them off, and still wouldn't come off. In the end I marred it up using vice grips to take it off. I figure he torqued it like he torqued the oil plug.

I tapped it out to a larger size, and was fine for the rest of the time I owned it.

$100 is a lot just to tap a hole out, what are you having done?

And I agree, you can save yourself a lot of grief by just snugging it up on the crush washer.

I never use anything other than my hand to tighten the oil filter, and the drain I just snug with a small wrench that I can't get much leverage on.So far so good.

[ponch]

12-14 ft lbs is all it needs. I don't drain from the drain plug per se. I drain from the screen plug. You get more oil out, it's easy, and it's easier to thread back in.

[ponch]

Its probably not being tapped out. I have seen a tread insert repair that uses steel, and it's permanent. The kit itself is around $100.

I may have done the same thing on my 99, though I tend to think the dealer did.

I did most of my own oil changes, but had it into the dealer for a clutch and he said to be careful, the plug is only in with a few threads when I went to pick it up.

When I went to take the oil filler cap off, it was torqued down so tight that it bent the Kawi tool that takes them off, and still wouldn't come off. In the end I marred it up using vice grips to take it off. I figure he torqued it like he torqued the oil plug.

I tapped it out to a larger size, and was fine for the rest of the time I owned it.

$100 is a lot just to tap a hole out, what are you having done?

And I agree, you can save yourself a lot of grief by just snugging it up on the crush washer.

[elnomad]

Valdez, you can get replacement drain plugs from an auto parts store. They will cut their own new thread and come in a variety of sizes both metric and standard. They cost about $4 each and take just a few minutes. Take the other $96 and treat yourself to some bling!

Another option is if you know someone with a thread tap you can tap a little larger thread without drilling. I used a 1/2" x 20 tap and got a Chevy drain plug.

[rlfaubion]

I may have done the same thing on my 99, though I tend to think the dealer did.

$100 is a lot just to tap a hole out, what are you having done?

And I agree, you can save yourself a lot of grief by just snugging it up on the crush washer.

The dealer did it! That's my position too. After my wreck last May having to change out the frame, they had to drain the oil. I blame them!

$100 is for a Helli-coil (spell). I could order one from Napa for $80, but the dealer said they will do it for around a $100.

I cannot snug it up knowing that if it leaks, it'll leak on my rear tire. I know you ride enough and have probably experienced oil on your tire. I've got a good story about that I can tell ya in Mesquite.

[dogdoc]

my brother blamed his stripped plugs after the first oil change then he had problems so the dealer had to repair it twice with one of those inserts. i tighten my plug my hand and very gingerly, no torque wrench here.

[ponch]

You'd rather use this: http://www.timesert.com/

Valdez, you can get replacement drain plugs from an auto parts store. They will cut their own new thread and come in a variety of sizes both metric and standard. They cost about $4 each and take just a few minutes. Take the other $96 and treat yourself to some bling!

Another option is if you know someone with a thread tap you can tap a little larger thread without drilling. I used a 1/2" x 20 tap and got a Chevy drain plug.

[rlfaubion]

I must admit, this is foreign territory for me. I'm not a stripper.

However, I'm a bit queasy about my past experience drilling holes in my engine case, as I have none.

I've certainly learned quite a bit about different ways to solve the problem, and I thank each of you for your informative responses.

I'm just going to call the KawaNow towing service and have them take it to BD's garage. He can fix it, and Overnight it FedEx back to me.

Man, I love this forum!

[bobzinger]

You can get an oversized self tapping drain plug from most car parts dealers.

[rlfaubion]

Tried that Bob - I need a metric 13mm. Over sized metrics come in even numbers, ie; 12mm to 14mm (as told). I tried the 14mm and a SAE 1/2 inch. Both were to large to get the threads started.

I'm convinced tapping is one way to go, but as said, I'm not a driller, and I'm trying to keep the metal shavings to a minimum.

I would like to get'r done myself, but at the end of the day, its not a major deal, and for the money, I'll let the dealer do it.

I will instruct them on how I want the engine flushed, but its their deal.

That way if any of my fears come to be, I can bitch at someone else :)