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Old 05-27-2015, 10:22 AM   #1
purepork   purepork is offline
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Blowing fuses

Have blown the 10 amp fuse that controls the tail lights, brake lights and 2 front lightbar lights twice the last few weeks. Since the bike is 15 years old I didn't think much about it the first time, but about a week after replacing it blew again. I know I need to search for rubbed wires shorting out, any clues for making this a faster process? I'm not much good with electrical stuff, and have never had this problem before. 2000 Nomad 1500 Fi.



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Old 05-27-2015, 10:30 AM   #2
macmac   macmac is offline
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Maybe the main harness under the tank tie wrapped to the frame has chaffed. The tie wrap there if it is still oem has a release tab, so check it before you cut it. Look between the harness and the frame. This was a known issue once.

Next go after any known bumps to any of these lamps. Wiggle them ON and wiggle the wires around too. Try to get fuse to blow.

This may point to a problem.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:14 AM   #3
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Will do, thanks for the reply.
 
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:13 PM   #4
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This bike may not have a relay for the driving lights and they are over taxing the parking light circuit. Disconnect the driving lights for awhile and see if you stop blowing fuses.
The dealer wired my brand new bike up that way and I was blowing fuses, when asked they said nope couldn't be the problem we wire all the bikes that way. I put a relay in and never let them touch my bike again.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:48 PM   #5
ringadingh   ringadingh is offline
 
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^^^ I think thats the reason as well, thats a lot of lights on that one circuit. The driving lamps should be on their own fuse.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:57 PM   #6
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^^^ I think thats the reason as well, thats a lot of lights on that one circuit. The driving lamps should be on their own fuse.
Thought the same thing after reading the post! +1
 
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:42 PM   #7
Sabre-t   Sabre-t is offline
 
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Thought the same thing after reading the post! +1
+2. Especially on a 10 A fuse. But, if it has been that way for all 15 years and is just now blowing the fuse repeatedly, it is probably a short.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:22 AM   #8
purepork   purepork is offline
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Yeah, thats my thinking too, I've had this Nomad for 10 years and this is a first. Probably a short, haven't located it yet but will keep looking. Thanks for all the responses.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:07 AM   #9
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Yeah, thats my thinking too, I've had this Nomad for 10 years and this is a first. Probably a short, haven't located it yet but will keep looking. Thanks for all the responses.
I would start eliminating each light source from the circuit.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:10 AM   #10
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Yeah, thats my thinking too, I've had this Nomad for 10 years and this is a first. Probably a short, haven't located it yet but will keep looking. Thanks for all the responses.
Also a "short" normal does not have these symtoms. What you have described is usually and overload condition where the fuse heats up over time.
 
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:15 AM   #11
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also if you have a volt meter that reads continuity on it you can find the hot side of the fuse put one point of the meter on it then disconnect the battery then put the other side of the meter on the frame and you can jiggle the wires and it will alert you ( mine buzzes) without having to blow fuse after fuse to track it down,
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:19 AM   #12
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I ran the setup you are running (spots on running light circuit) for 7 years and no overload problem. You don't have a over load or a direct short. That over load would require that you load had changed and it hasn't. And a short would blow your fuse immediately. You have a intermittent ground on a hot wire. Mac's suggestion on the wire bundle chaffing and the one on checking near the light sockets are both good but the loosest area (wire bundles just hanging out where they can rub thru) is in the headlamp housing. That is also the area that gets messed with when they originally hooked up your spots. Go inside and look at where the spots are spliced into the running lamp circuit. Bet you find your bare spot on a hot wire there.
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:48 PM   #13
Tearitupfixitrepeat   Tearitupfixitrepeat is offline
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Check the bundle over the rear cylinder for a chafe for sure.

About that not running a relay part and it lasting 15 years, look for the blue scotch locks that stupidly probably came with the lightbar. See what's going on there.

Intermittent stuff is the worst.

I would re-do the lightbar. I think the accesory lead may be under the tank on a Nomad though.

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Old 06-03-2015, 09:07 AM   #14
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So far I haven't been able to find any chafed or cracked wires or loose connections. I did however discover that when i wiggled one of the the connectors on the back of the driving lights switch, they went on and off. So I'm guessing there's some kind of short inside the switch housing. I turned the switch off and have ridden a few days with no blown fuses.
 
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:31 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by purepork View Post
So far I haven't been able to find any chafed or cracked wires or loose connections. I did however discover that when i wiggled one of the the connectors on the back of the driving lights switch, they went on and off. So I'm guessing there's some kind of short inside the switch housing. I turned the switch off and have ridden a few days with no blown fuses.
Not a short but a bad connection which can get hot and cause a higher resistance blowing the fuse over time. A short to ground will blow a fuse instantly.
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