Engine ticking noise

[Zeineth]

Well the motor has 45,000 kms on this 2014 Voge now and is has developed a ticking noise in the rear cyl head on occasion when starting her up. Had it to the dealer for few days and they talked with Kawai and it was determined that the rear cyl Hydraulic lifters are failing for some reason. So they gave me the bike back and said finish out the last of the season and give us a call when the snow flies and we will tear out the motor and replace rear HLA . All going to be covered under warranty. Kind of sucks but it is what it is. Oil was changed and it helped slightly with the frequency but did not resolve.

[bladenbullet]

probably bleeding down and on start up have to pump back up...lifters a re a check valve that constantly adjust valve lash...may have had something run through them/it...the clearances in them are very small...it really doesn't take much...considerate of them to let you run it then pull it in after the season...

if its mechanical things can go wrong...that's what warranties are for....

[smokier]

Originally Posted by Zeineth

All going to be covered under warranty.

Greetings,

As stated, excellent that they are going to let you finish the season and then cover it under warranty! In my mind that is great customer service!
Mechanical stuff, SCHITE can happen... Had a front wheel bearing go bad on my 1500 Classic at 8k. They covered it, but remember thinking; "This could get expensive if the bearing are only going to last 8k." Put 68k on that bike before trading, never had another issue there.

Ride safe,
Smokier

[Zeineth]

Hey guys, ya the finishing the season off is a mutual arrangement. I didn't really want to loose the bike for a couple weeks possibly because they are very busy with getting boats and jet ski's winterized. They are a small shop with only two bike techs. So they also didn't want to tie up the shop space with something that can wait so long as it doesn't get really bad. So as agreed I will wait till the snow fly's and they will actually come and get it from my home when they are ready for it. Could be Dec or Jan. Feb. But it is all good as I store at home anyway. Nice thing about this t is my warranty is up in April. Might have to consider buying the extended 5 year.

[VulcanD]

Hmm,

I have the same issue intermittently on a 2011 Nomad bought as a new leftover last November. I asked the dealer what issues might go wrong given that it sat in a crate for a few years, and he mentioned "valve lash, but I don't know whether you'll see it." Since I don't know what that is, but I get that ticking sound on each piston thrust on occasion, should I assume that I have the issue? I notice it every time it happens, but it usually goes away after 10 minutes of riding. Is it something I should be concerned about?

Happy and safe riding,
Dan

[ringadingh]

Why dont you try adding some Seafoam to the crankcase oil, and see if that cures it. Sometimes it does the trick without doing a teardown.

[Vulcanrider03]

Seafom in crank case will not harm the bike?? just curious Because my 2010 Nomad on occasion does the same thing

[ringadingh]

No it won't harm it, Ive used it in the crankcase once a year, for years. I put about 4-6 ounces in for 300-500 miles before I do an oil change.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by Vulcanrider03

Seafom in crank case will not harm the bike?? just curious Because my 2010 Nomad on occasion does the same thing

Originally Posted by ringadingh

No it won't harm it, Ive used it in the crankcase once a year, for years. I put about 4-6 ounces in for 300-500 miles before I do an oil change.

Like he said, put it in shortly before an oil change.

I do think more than 300 miles is too much before changing the oil, especially the first time. You don't want to ride long or hard, just a nice easy ride. It needs to circulate, but you are releasing crap into the oil and you need to get it out of there pretty quickly. I wouldn't do more than 50 - 100 miles the first few times, and, personally never more than 100 - 150 miles for routine use. Ringadingh's amount is right on the recommended amount (1 - 1.5 oz./qt of oil), but that is also nearly 20% of the oil volume. That's going to result in a big change in the viscosity of the oil and Seafoam is not going to lubricate like oil does.

[bladenbullet]

Originally Posted by Sabre-t

Like he said, put it in shortly before an oil change.

I do think more than 300 miles is too much before changing the oil, especially the first time. You don't want to ride long or hard, just a nice easy ride. It needs to circulate, but you are releasing crap into the oil and you need to get it out of there pretty quickly. I wouldn't do more than 50 - 100 miles the first few times, and, personally never more than 100 - 150 miles for routine use. Ringadingh's amount is right on the recommended amount (1 - 1.5 oz./qt of oil), but that is also nearly 20% of the oil volume. That's going to result in a big change in the viscosity of the oil and Seafoam is not going to lubricate like oil does.

might want to rework that percentage...1 - 1.5 oz per quart is less than 5%...

anything particulate released into the oil will be captured in the filter...seafoam does not lubricate like oil but neither do the detergents in oil...there are a few different cleaning products that can be used in the oil with great success and are meant for that purpose specifically...

[twowheeladdict]

Kawasaki replace both front and rear HLAs on my 2010 Voyager. The tech said they are redesigned parts that may be in the '16 bikes.

[Snake Ranch]

Originally Posted by twowheeladdict

Kawasaki replace both front and rear HLAs on my 2010 Voyager. The tech said they are redesigned parts that may be in the '16 bikes.

My skoot has this tic sound every time it gets cold outside.

I resealed the forks and installed Race-Tec springs and emulators.

This is what the engine sounded like after sitting for about 3 weeks.

This is the worst it ever sounded.

I let it run for over 30 minutes thinking if it warmed up the lifter would pump up when the oil thinned out, BUT it wouldn't.

So I revved the engine up to 2000 rpm. Still no luck. Finally after 2 or 3 minutes at 3000 rpm it started to go away.

To make a long story short Kawasaki said they would repair the problem. I got the feeling they just wanted me to go away.

In talking with the tec at the dealership he said they are drilling some holes larger to get better oil flow.

Same as yours it's the rear head and they have to pull the engine to get at the problem.

[Snake Ranch]

I am having trouble getting the video file to attach to my post.

[DragonLady58]

Originally Posted by Snake Ranch

My skoot has this tic sound every time it gets cold outside.

I resealed the forks and installed Race-Tec springs and emulators.

This is what the engine sounded like after sitting for about 3 weeks.

This is the worst it ever sounded.

I let it run for over 30 minutes thinking if it warmed up the lifter would pump up when the oil thinned out, BUT it wouldn't.

So I revved the engine up to 2000 rpm. Still no luck. Finally after 2 or 3 minutes at 3000 rpm it started to go away.

To make a long story short Kawasaki said they would repair the problem. I got the feeling they just wanted me to go away.

In talking with the tec at the dealership he said they are drilling some holes larger to get better oil flow.

Same as yours it's the rear head and they have to pull the engine to get at the problem.

Yes, drilling the oil holes larger and putting a chamfer on them....to pickup more oil and pass it faster to the lifters

[SUMMITRIC]

Cracked exhaust pipes, especially on the rear cylinder is common, for causing ticking noise, especially when the engine is still cold.... especially if it is aftermarket oem style replacement.