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Old 01-05-2010, 10:53 AM   #1
rewindgy   rewindgy is offline
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U-joints

Anyone changed out their U-joint themselves? I have done lots on cars & trucks - but I have never had problems as with this Kawi! I have a proper hydraulic press and getting the new one in was a bear. As of now, I may take it apart again as I have this nagging feeling I damaged the needle bearings in one cap -doesn't growl or rumble - just doesn't feel right?
Anyone else have issues installing the new joint ???? Unless I ended up with a less then top quality replacement? I measured old vs new with a caliper and they appear to be the same dimensionally.




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Old 01-05-2010, 11:10 AM   #2
trosco   trosco is offline
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U-joints

I know that Dkdixie and VulcanE did a couple. I think they actually messed one up like that before they got it right. I think Dick even has a spare shaft with new u_joint just in case now. You might pm them?
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:39 PM   #3
macmac   macmac is offline
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If you dropped a needle get that thing apart. If it binds now, it will come apart in use in a bad way..

If you some how managed to get the clips in with a dropped needle the joint is likey ruined now. The needle will be ruined.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:21 PM   #4
rewindgy   rewindgy is offline
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U-joints

Ima gonna pop it apart tomorrow. It's cold and snowin like a biach right now -good time to stay inside.
 
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:56 PM   #5
delivery58   delivery58 is offline
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U-joints

I do most of my own wrenching on my bikes and cars, but sometimes I calculate hassle vs the cheap. I took my Nomad U-joint to a Driveline shop ( they do this all day long, everyday ), for $10.00.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:54 AM   #6
VulcanE   VulcanE is offline
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U-joints

One thing I noticed when I did mine, was that it moved freely in both plains until I installed the keeper clips. Then it didn't move right in one plain. I took the clips off and compared them with the stock ones, and they were quit a bit thicker. I put it back together using one of the stock keepers and it moved fine, but I didn't like the idea of it being out of center (U-joint that is). So I removed the aftermarket u-joint, then took my old one and removed all the cups and needles and cleaned it up good, re-greased it with the Honda 60 Molly Lube, and reused the factory u-joint. There wasn't anything wrong with it to start with, I just wanted to go ahead and replace it with one that had a grease fitting. After doing this a couple of times, it don't take but a few minutes to do it now. Just be careful removing the keepers, don't stretch them, and don't let them fly off or you'll never find it again.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:13 AM   #7
macmac   macmac is offline
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U-joints

When installing U joints, there are a few things you can do to help yerself out...

Make everything clean of course, smear a dob of grease into the end caps, to retain the neeldes, add another dob to the center area of the cap, intending to squish it mostly out, which helps keep the needles in line.

Start all the caps in the yokes straight in each ones time, and take care to not tip over rollers inserting the cross.

Over drive the caps that are in.

I like to start the ones in any longer shaft first, and do the short yokes last.

By over driving the caps,. there is less chance to tip over needles.

The over driven caps will ride back into place too..

I forgot, under cleaning, either lightly file or sand the yokes where the caps fit so the caps will slide easiers, and get any factory burrs fer sure! Make the areas bright, removing ALL dirt and any rust.. Clean and smooth is the name of this game.

With the cross in pad the vise with leather or stiff carboard, and set the cross not yet capped on that holding it evenly.

With a wood mallet, aka 2x4 if there is no better smack the yoke down to drive the bottom cap down and set it against the clip. Flip the shaft over and do it again to get the other cap.

Then clamp the shaft easy in the vise to hold it and get the short yoke end done the same way.

With the cross assembled in the yokes and the clips ALL in, smack both sets back into each clip. Try the joint by hand for a silky smooth action.

OT sort of, when I do larger joints I tend to cut them with torches. Then drive the caps in where then they just fall out.. If you have a power saw that eats metal, like a hand held metal cutting band saw, I would use that, over driving a bad joint out the way it went in.

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Old 01-08-2010, 09:14 AM   #8
rewindgy   rewindgy is offline
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U-joints

I took it down to a Drive shaft place and they inspected it and gave me the Okalie doakalie. I did clean everything and deburred all radiuses. They figure since the yokes are so thin that they cocked slightly when I was pressing them in. Before I took it there I left it sitting in front of the furnace vent and probably ovenight they settled in! Or maybe the U-joint fairy showed up and fixed it properly?
 
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:58 PM   #9
macmac   macmac is offline
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heat and time might have some effect and settle a clip with a cap.. Still I'ld smack the crosses supporting the set not smacked the first time. That was a habit to seat the clips and caps anyway in my world.
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