Crispy Critters fuse block!!!

[toogun]

Went for a short ride last night, everything was working when I left and when I got to where I was headed. (4 miles) Started the bike about 3 hours later and no panel lights, tail lights or light bar. Figured the fuse blew but when I checked the junction box it was fried!!! The 10 amp tail lamp fuse was completely melted and the 10 amp beside and above had started to melt, possibly from the heat of the tail lamp fuse.

It seems obvious that the fuse didn't blow when it should have and was hot enough to melt everything around it....was it just a bad fuse???

Over the winter I had changed my light bar bulbs to H1 55 watt Halogen but I've ridden 300-400 miles since that without a problem. Is it possible that this was the cause? Or was it just the fuse? Still something caused it to incinerate!

BTW, I do NOT have a relay on my driving lights, been that way for 2 years but I did increase the wattage of the bulbs from stock 35 watt to 55 watt Halogen.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

See attached pics.

[HwyRider]

Yep. The 55 watts without a relay and without thicker wiring will do it.

[toogun]

Originally Posted by HwyRider

Yep. The 55 watts without a relay and without thicker wiring will do it.

Okay, but why wouldn't the fuse blow first?
I admit that I have limited knowledge of 12v electrical, kind of learn as I go deal.

[HwyRider]

The fuse may have been rated high enough for the lights but the thin wire couldn't handle it.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by HwyRider

The fuse may have been rated high enough for the lights but the thin wire couldn't handle it.

Exactly and he rode for 3-4 hundred miles with no issues to his knowledge, but more than likely the fuse socket and wire repeatly got hot on each ride causing a bit of a breakdown of the circuit each time and a bit more resistance each time till it melted.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by HwyRider

The fuse may have been rated high enough for the lights but the thin wire couldn't handle it.

We have a winner folks!

Just because the lights worked that way for 2 years doesn't mean they were wired properly.

[dshelly]

Maybe you should have stayed with the 35w bulbs huh ???

[toogun]

Originally Posted by dshelly

Maybe you should have stayed with the 35w bulbs huh ???

Well I tried LED first but they were terrible, I know there's good ones on the market but which ones are they and where do I find them?

If I want to stick with the 55 watt, do I need to increase the wire gauge from the bulb to the fuse block and add a relay?

Also I don't have a clue how to put the relay in. I took it to a bike shop initially and they didn't know what to do either. Reading through the different thread about light bars, there were almost as many posts about people that installed light bars without a relay as those that insisted it's required.

Trying to find a good shop that has a clue around here is hopeless. I live in a city with a population of 3 million people and you would think there would be reasonable access to a good bike shop....WRONG! We only have 1 Kawi dealer left and it's way the hell out in Scarberia!

[dshelly]

Maybe there is another member on here that lives close enough to come help you out..

Otherwise I know there are post on here about how to wire up a light bar with a relay.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by toogun

Well I tried LED first but they were terrible, I know there's good ones on the market but which ones are they and where do I find them?

If I want to stick with the 55 watt, do I need to increase the wire gauge from the bulb to the fuse block and add a relay?

Also I don't have a clue how to put the relay in. I took it to a bike shop initially and they didn't know what to do either. Reading through the different thread about light bars, there were almost as many posts about people that installed light bars without a relay as those that insisted it's required.

Trying to find a good shop that has a clue around here is hopeless. I live in a city with a population of 3 million people and you would think there would be reasonable access to a good bike shop....WRONG! We only have 1 Kawi dealer left and it's way the hell out in Scarberia!

Go to gadgets page, there is at least one and possibly 2 write ups on driving lights and relays. It's not that hard or expensive to do. Follow what it says and you will be fine. For everyone who says naw you don't need a relay and just to tap into existing light circuits, I say they don 't know much except enought to not do the job right!

[HwyRider]

Stick an auxiliary fuse panel on the bike.

The relay and aux panel are cheap. You can get them at any auto parts store. The better aux panels are at marine stores and have a ground lug for every positive lug on the panel. They come in 4, 6, 10, and 12 circuit depending on your needs.

[toogun]

Originally Posted by HwyRider

Stick an auxiliary fuse panel on the bike.

The relay and aux panel are cheap. You can get them at any auto parts store. The better aux panels are at marine stores and have a ground lug for every positive lug on the panel. They come in 4, 6, 10, and 12 circuit depending on your needs.

Thanks, that's good advice. Do I need to rewire with heavier gauge too?

[macmac]

Wasn't that you needed a relay, as you could have run 15 amp wire for a 15 amp circuit and run with no relay. But you ran 9.8 amps on a 10 amp system and fried it. Sounds like that was off the acc wire or thru the ignition switch which may be almost fried. And then if you haven't added a 14ga wire from the forks to the frame the is a chance you have buggered up the head stock steering bearings using bearing rollers and the races are ground.

Yes you need to run wire that can take a 15 amp circuit.
The print screen is a chart.
http://prntscr.com/7a69xn

[Sin City Stan]

55 + 55 = 110 watts / 12.8 Volts = 8.6 Amperes. A #16 gauge wire is good for 9 amperes. However, fuses and wire should not be loaded more than 80% for continuous use. Also, loading the wire at 96% will not melt the wire but it will get hot. When it gets hot connections expand. When it cools the connections contract. Over time you have a LOOSE, HOT connection and it looks like your first photo.

[HwyRider]

Go to an auto parts store or home improvement store and pick up a small roll of 14 gauge wire in red and one in black. Run those back from your lights to your aux fuse panel if you put one in.

If you put a fuse panel in and don't want the items of the fuse panel to come on before the bike is started run a wire from the battery to a relay and then from the relay to the fuse panel. You would trip the relay with whatever circuit you were using that just fried or another one that doesn't come on until the bike starts.

This is the best type of system to use for a fuse panel. After you install the fuse panel you would just connect other items to a positive and negative on the panel.

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syste...sea+fuse+block