Evap System Ca. Model

[1oldtimer]

Can anyone tell me if 16126 (Valve, Air Switching)and all relating parts can be removed if I remove my Evaporative system from my bike.
Or tell me what the purpose of this system is on a non Ca model.
If 92192B and 92192C are removed, can the tubes on the heads be plugged without any ill affects?
I am looking at removing my evap system and after digging into the diagrams, I found this. Now I am not quite sure how far I can go with it.
Here is a pic to help explain what I am speaking about.
Thank you for your help.



Update: So after studying the diagrams, I am leaning toward this thought.....The evap system runs to the air switching valve which is pulling a vacuum from the air filter. If a non Ca. model is just pulling fresh air in to the switching valve, then into the heads, could we not plug this system and in turn stop more air intake causing a lean condition?
Just bouncing ideas around here because I can find no documentation on this except how to check functionality of the valve.

Update: Again: Sorry for the confusion here, but I think I really got it this time. This is the system that we are plugging already from the intake on the right side Dog Bowl, to help stop decel popping. In doing this, now I wonder if it inhibits the Evap. system on the Ca. models from functioning properly.

[1oldtimer]

OK, No one has commented on this but I now I believe that because we plug the fresh air tube to the ried valves to stop decel popping, on the Ca models we would also need to plug the tube from the evap canister that also goes to the ried valves. I am thinking this is why I am having such a hard time trying to eliminate the decel pop issue. In fact, I wonder how many of you with a Ca model also are having dificulty as well. Remember that the only differance in the Ca model is the Evap System in case you are going to ask.
Also, now that the fresh air tube is blocked, with the system trying to draw air from the evap system tube, could this be the reason why my fuel tank seems to alwys have suction when I open the gas cap to fuel up?
I would really like some feedback here.
Thanks,
Frank

[cactusjack]

My 2007 Nomad was a CA emissions model. I needed to remove the charcoal canister to make room to install a cruise control servo unit. I just pulled the canister out, popped off the two hoses and joined them together with a male-male barbed fitting and stuffed the hoses into the "black hole" in front of the battery area. Never gave it a second thought.

[R_W_B]

Originally Posted by 1oldtimer

OK, No one has commented on this but I now I believe that because we plug the fresh air tube to the ried valves to stop decel popping, on the Ca models we would also need to plug the tube from the evap canister that also goes to the ried valves. I am thinking this is why I am having such a hard time trying to eliminate the decel pop issue. In fact, I wonder how many of you with a Ca model also are having dificulty as well. Remember that the only differance in the Ca model is the Evap System in case you are going to ask.
Also, now that the fresh air tube is blocked, with the system trying to draw air from the evap system tube, could this be the reason why my fuel tank seems to alwys have suction when I open the gas cap to fuel up?
I would really like some feedback here.
Thanks,
Frank

Well to your gas tank suction upon opening the cap, I would say Yes to the evap canister. Reason being I have an old 1988 Chevy truck with the evap canister and it did the same thing. The manual even says to open the gas cap before disconnecting the fuel line from the throttle body, to relieve pressure in tank.

However (on the Kawas) I did not know the evap line went to the reed valve. I thought it just went to the tank vent tube. But then I don't own a bike that has an evap so I'm guessing there.

I did plug the air line from the intake going to the hoses that end up at the reed valve (on my 2011 Nomad), but I still had decal popping. I eventually got it out with my Power Commander V tuner.

I first richened the 0% throttle column until the popping went away. But then at first I had it too rich cause the popping was replaced with a burbling sound. So I backed some cells off (some more than others) it until I got these numbers.

(in the zero% throttle column only) I have no change (0%) fuel added from 500 rpms to 1250 rpms, but then at 1500 rpms I have 1% fuel add, at 1750 rpms thru 2500 rpms I added %2 fuel, and at 2750 rpms thru 3750 rpms I added 1% fuel. The higher rpms were left unchanged (0%).

Granted that's not a huge fuel bump but it took most all the popping away from my decel with no rich burbling sound (my intake air tube is plugged). I still have a slight intermittent pop every now and again, but I think that's an intake leak which I'm going to do the thunder gasket install for that soon. But overall I have much less noticeable popping on decal now.

Keep in mind, decal popping is caused by a lean mix interacting with the exhaust air. A backfire or a single loud gun shot sound (and to a lesser degree, burbling) is caused by a rich mix interacting with the exhaust air.

The whole air pump thing is a mute issue (as far as EPA compliance goes) if you have slip ons or pipes. Since all the air pump does is pump enough air into the exhaust on startup to allow the CAT converters in the OEM mufflers to burn excess carbons. After the CAT heats up it can burn them on it's own, which is why cages had a sensor on/off switch on their air pumps. Most all cages did away with the air pumps many yrs ago since they have more advanced EPA compliance PCMs etc now.

[TdLpps]

I modified my evap system in order to run my auxillary tank setup. I ran the existing vent hose that went to charcoal canister to the lower section of the frame, capped off the secondary vapor fitting on the right side of the tank and used the stock fuel return hose as the supply point to feed fuel from my auxillary tank to the main tank.

Make extra sure that the one remaining vent hose is clear and not pinched. About an hour north of Sacramento I was riding at about 75 mph and heard a tinny pop. I looked down and saw an inward dent in the tank. At the last tank installation I pinched the vent hose, the system pulled into a vacuum and imploded the tank. Fortunately the area was relatively small, no paint cracked, no metal creased, and I was able to pull over and correct the routing of the vent hose and didn't have a problem after that.

When I got home, I sealed the tank and slowly applied air pressure and was able to pop the dent out so that it couldn't be seen any longer.

[1oldtimer]

Thanks for all the replies.
So I can remove the entire system, cap off the left tank vent tube and run a vent hose down on the right side with no I'll effect?
This will be my winter project to get me out the house

[TdLpps]

Remove the evap canister, cap off the port on the left side of the tank, cap off the port on the right side of the tank that leads to the air injection valve, keep the current vent line in place and let it terminate into the area where the canister used to be. Simplest answer.