Register FAQ Upgrade Membership Community Calendar Today's Posts Search
Go Back   Vulcan Bagger Forums > Technical :: Maintenance :: Performance > 1500 & 1600 Nomad

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-15-2014, 02:36 PM   #31
waterman   waterman is offline
Top Contributor
 
waterman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 6,530
With running that high of octane, carbon build up can be a major issue. Do you run cleaner in your fuel? If you don't or haven't get some and double or triple the rate. Another thing to do is run the bike to the rev limiter for a 1/4 mile. I had a problem with a 1500A. Went thru a bunch of changes that didn't help. A gent on another forum told me to hit the rev limiter and watch what happens. Did it and it coughed and sputtered and then it gave a big cloud of black crap out the back. Hit the next gear and it was much better.
__________________
Joel "Waterman"
2017 HD Road Glide Ultra
2006 Nomad - Sold
VBA 213
VROC 16913

Custer 09: Cortez 10: Crescent City 11: Kanab 12: Estes Park 13: Tahoe 14: Red Lodge 16



Login or Register to Remove Ads
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 03:05 PM   #32
paul   paul is offline
Sr. Member
 
paul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: magnolia, tx
Posts: 1,500
Don't know if this will help or not, but I have run and absloutely love, the E3 plugs in both the 1500 and the 1600. Narry an issue, always a good burn. I also use Gumout fuel system cleaner at least every 6K miles and spray down the T-body about every 10, or when I clean the air filter. These T-bodies seem to gunk up pretty easy. Also, if you have a fuel processor, check it. Mine has changed settings slightly over time. Might be the vibes or who knows. But, check it.
__________________
The beatings will stop when morale improves.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 04:30 PM   #33
toogun   toogun is offline
Member
 
toogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by cnc View Post
It's not so much the cleaning of the new plugs, but pulling them and checking the colour is going to be a clue to what is going on. White to grey= lean which is the way most stock Nomads run, tan to chocolate brown = just right. Black = rich.
Pulled the plugs and as I suspected there was already a carbon buildup on them, keep in mind there's only 60 miles on the plugs since new and gapped at .33"

I cleaned them so I could see the result next time I pull them. Now I need the rain to stop.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg plugs 002.jpg (95.2 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg plugs 005.jpg (86.6 KB, 28 views)
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 05:05 PM   #34
cnc   cnc is offline
 
cnc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal QC
Posts: 12,034
The porcelain is fairly white, yeah only 60 miles on them, but that looks lean to me so I don't think you are running rich at least not at the rpm range you had the bike running at before they were pulled.
__________________

Norm Ward
2008 blue / silver nomad
kawanow / VBA #01136
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 05:12 PM   #35
toogun   toogun is offline
Member
 
toogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterman View Post
With running that high of octane, carbon build up can be a major issue. Do you run cleaner in your fuel? If you don't or haven't get some and double or triple the rate. Another thing to do is run the bike to the rev limiter for a 1/4 mile. I had a problem with a 1500A. Went thru a bunch of changes that didn't help. A gent on another forum told me to hit the rev limiter and watch what happens. Did it and it coughed and sputtered and then it gave a big cloud of black crap out the back. Hit the next gear and it was much better.
From what I've read we should be running at least 91 in the Nomad.
When I started riding we ran nothing but Sunoco 260 which was 104, and no damn ethanol! No pollution control, just octane and air. Guess that's why we had to go WOT often, come to think of it I don't ever remember having my plugs carbon fouled back then, but I was young and reckless.

I did have a dose of TKO 2000 fuel system treatment in the last tank.
Back in the day we used to periodically (daily) go wide open to blow out the carbon, we didn't have no stinkin' rev limiters. Actually I didn't know what a rev limiter was until I read your post...
That was 40 years ago, I ride somewhat more conservatively these days.
So I've done a bit of searching on the subject but am still a bit unclear about how to know that it's working, when it'll cut in, other than the exhaust might puke out some black smoke and fart a bit.

And tips on doing this? Still freaks me out that these bikes don't have tachs on them.. Geez even my Lincoln had a tach!



Login or Register to Remove Ads
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 05:24 PM   #36
toogun   toogun is offline
Member
 
toogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by ringadingh View Post
It wouldn't hurt to add half a can of Seafoam either, I used it as regular maintenance a couple times a season.
I've never used "Seafoam", had a Seafoam Green Fender guitar once.
I'm seeing it advertised a lot lately Crappy Tire, Parts Source (same company) I used TKO 2000 Fuel Treatment in the last tank.
Do you think Seafoam is better. I have to run out this evening anyway so I could pick some up.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 07:45 PM   #37
redjay   redjay is offline
Top Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 6,929
87 octane is all you need in your Nomad. Try it.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 08:44 PM   #38
Top Cat   Top Cat is offline
 
Top Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Peoples Republic of New York State
Posts: 15,154
Quote:
Originally Posted by redjay View Post
87 octane is all you need in your Nomad. Try it.
Some Nomads ping on 87.
__________________
Tim "TC" Conley
VBA #9



2011 Victory Kingpin mine
2013 Victory Boardwalk -hers




[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]
[SIZE=4]
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:22 PM   #39
redjay   redjay is offline
Top Contributor
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 6,929
He wont know if it pings on 87 if he does not try it.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:30 PM   #40
Top Cat   Top Cat is offline
 
Top Cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Peoples Republic of New York State
Posts: 15,154
Quote:
Originally Posted by redjay View Post
He wont know if it pings on 87 if he does not try it.
I agree
__________________
Tim "TC" Conley
VBA #9



2011 Victory Kingpin mine
2013 Victory Boardwalk -hers




[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]
[SIZE=4]
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:34 PM   #41
dhuttonkc   dhuttonkc is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 157
I have always understood that to really read the plugs that you must be underway, at speed, then pull the clutch and turn off the ignition as you coast into a rest area or turnout.

Then pull the plugs from the engine to properly read them.

There is no need to pull them all if they are same brand and gapped correctly unless you suspect an injector problem, spark lead problem, or similar. Gently turn the plugs out of a warm engine. I use anti seize on plug threads.

Running at speed and then cruising home to read the plugs will not generally reflect how the cylinders are burning fuel when you are at highway speeds.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:38 PM   #42
tonik   tonik is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 714
Quote:
Originally Posted by toogun View Post
I've never used "Seafoam", had a Seafoam Green Fender guitar once.
I'm seeing it advertised a lot lately Crappy Tire, Parts Source (same company) I used TKO 2000 Fuel Treatment in the last tank.
Do you think Seafoam is better. I have to run out this evening anyway so I could pick some up.
Seafoam is the best, it is the brand/type that most bikers go for. It delivers every time if there are any varnish/dirt issues in the fuel system. It is pretty amazing stuff.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:49 PM   #43
toogun   toogun is offline
Member
 
toogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhuttonkc View Post
I have always understood that to really read the plugs that you must be underway, at speed, then pull the clutch and turn off the ignition as you coast into a rest area or turnout.

Then pull the plugs from the engine to properly read them.

There is no need to pull them all if they are same brand and gapped correctly unless you suspect an injector problem, spark lead problem, or similar. Gently turn the plugs out of a warm engine. I use anti seize on plug threads.

Running at speed and then cruising home to read the plugs will not generally reflect how the cylinders are burning fuel when you are at highway speeds.
If I get to ride this weekend I'll give that method a try.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:50 PM   #44
toogun   toogun is offline
Member
 
toogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by redjay View Post
He wont know if it pings on 87 if he does not try it.
Sure I'll give it a try next fill up.
 
Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2014, 09:53 PM   #45
toogun   toogun is offline
Member
 
toogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonik View Post
Seafoam is the best, it is the brand/type that most bikers go for. It delivers every time if there are any varnish/dirt issues in the fuel system. It is pretty amazing stuff.
Bought some this evening poured half a can in. I'm curious to see the results.
BTW most of my riding is highway so I'm not too sure that I'm that carboned up, but it sure won't hurt will it.
 
Reply With Quote
Reply





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.