Clutch Spring, again?

[patmahoney]

Was wondering how often others have had to replace the clutch spring. Last spring my clutch was slipping pretty bad, so I replaced the clutch spring with a Mean Streak spring. Now I am starting to feel a bit of slippage again. I have put a little over 15,000 mile on the bike since the replacement. Is it possible I could need to replace the spring again?

[ve3hzz]

Originally Posted by PatrickM

Was wondering how often others have had to replace the clutch spring. Last spring my clutch was slipping pretty bad, so I replaced the clutch spring with a Mean Streak spring. Now I am starting to feel a bit of slippage again. I have put a little over 15,000 mile on the bike since the replacement. Is it possible I could need to replace the spring again?

How many miles on the bike? When you did the spring, did you keep the washers? and install them correctly (slight cup?). Also did you pull the friction plates and check them for wear?
When you reinstalled everything (if took the clutch disc apart) did you put them all back in proper order? Also have you changed the clutch fluid (flush and fill/bleed)?

I would say FIRST bleed and flush the clutch fluid (DOT 4 brake fluid) before opening it up first, then go from there.

Depending on your riding style, and mileage on the bike you may need to replace some friction plates, but that all depends on other things mentioned to check first.

Scott

[patmahoney]

Thanks Scott.
Total miles are about 56,000. Installed the washers as shown on gadget's site. Didn't pull the friction plates. I haven't changed the fluid, I was thinking that might be a problem. I will try that and see what happens, it is overdue anyway.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by PatrickM

Thanks Scott.
Total miles are about 56,000. Installed the washers as shown on gadget's site. Didn't pull the friction plates. I haven't changed the fluid, I was thinking that might be a problem. I will try that and see what happens, it is overdue anyway.

I doubt the hydraulic clutch fluid will make the clutch slip. It would affect the engage/disengage operation. It is entirely possible the friction plates are worn or the clutch spring does need replacement. If it were me, I'd open up the clutch area, inspect the plates, and if they look okay - replace the spring with a Barnett MT25. If the plates are worn, I'd buy a gorilla clutch kit and replace the whole shooting match.

[patmahoney]

Is it possible that a new clutch spring could hide a problem with the plates? Excuse my ignorance but I have no idea how all these parts interact.

[ndbigfish]

Has motor oil with a friction modifer been used?

[ve3hzz]

Originally Posted by cactusjack

I doubt the hydraulic clutch fluid will make the clutch slip. It would affect the engage/disengage operation. It is entirely possible the friction plates are worn or the clutch spring does need replacement. If it were me, I'd open up the clutch area, inspect the plates, and if they look okay - replace the spring with a Barnett MT25. If the plates are worn, I'd buy a gorilla clutch kit and replace the whole shooting match.

I would agree CJ, but it depends on where he seems to "feel" the slip, when he it shifting? when he is ROLL ON? etc. That is why I suggested to change the fluid as it should be done and it's the LEAST time/wrenching involved to try and see which it is?
If it's when ROLLING ON and slipping, your right, but I rode one here that owner thought was slipping clutch. I rode it and found out it was infact when he used the clutch to him it seemed to be "slipping" it was no problems on ROLL ON and lugged the engine a bit. He changed the fluid (or rather a garage did it) and after he said it was "fixed".
That's only reason I suggested it. And as already stated now that we know the mileage on it, could be friction plates or GLAZING of them depending on what OIL (friction modifiers) was used over the time!!!
But I think your right, needs to be taken apart and investigated and like you said upgrade the spring etc.

Since it's not a hard job, you can take it apart find out first, button it up and get the parts if needed and still (if not BAD) ride it till the parts come in. If you replaced the gasket last time, likely can reuse it. If you do it on the side stand don't even have to drain the oil.

When I did my clutch spring a couple years ago didn't even have to change the gasket (came off perfectly) still have the one I bought up on the wall awaiting me to take that apart again if I need to and HAVE to replace it then.

Scott

[patmahoney]

Using Rotella t5

[patmahoney]

I still have the gasket I bought last time that I didn't need to use.

The slipping is on roll on, not as severe as last time but I want to get her squared before the warmer weather and longer rides.

Thanks to all.

[ve3hzz]

Originally Posted by PatrickM

I still have the gasket I bought last time that I didn't need to use.

The slipping is on roll on, not as severe as last time but I want to get her squared before the warmer weather and longer rides.

Thanks to all.

So I'd be taking it apart (if you don't ride it NOW as it's OFF season for many of us in the north) :( then you can find out how bad the friction plates are and if they are worn (thickness) or glazed (burnt oil on them causing them to slip). Then as CJ said get the gorilla clutch kit and do the entire thing so you have no problems again. When I plan on doing mine, that is what I will use.

Good luck let us know how you make out.

Scott

[ringadingh]

Measure the clutch plates with calipers and see if they are within spec. Check that everything was assembled correctly. You should be able to look at the spring and see if the centre is worn down.
It should have lasted a lot longer than that .

[flavor]

Originally Posted by Scott (ve3hzz)

How many miles on the bike? When you did the spring, did you keep the washers? and install them correctly (slight cup?). Also did you pull the friction plates and check them for wear?
When you reinstalled everything (if took the clutch disc apart) did you put them all back in proper order? Also have you changed the clutch fluid (flush and fill/bleed)?

I would say FIRST bleed and flush the clutch fluid (DOT 4 brake fluid) before opening it up first, then go from there.

Depending on your riding style, and mileage on the bike you may need to replace some friction plates, but that all depends on other things mentioned to check first.

Scott

I agree about changing the clutch fluid as well. It probably isn't going to solve the problem but it won't hurt. I noticed a big difference in my braking when I changed the brake fluid after too many miles on one of my previous bikes so maybe it'll make a difference on the workings of the clutch as well. (Though 15,000 miles is nothing). Age of the oil will also effect the efficiency. What yr bike.

[macmac]

Most everything has been covered, but for how long was the slipping allowed to last the first time? If the bike were used often and a delay in the fix occured, that will wear friction plates.

If the fix was preformed shortly after the problem came on, then the new spring has failed.

The meanie spring is what all new Nomad springs are now, and it wasn't the best either. Marginally it was beefier, but not that much.

With a Barnett Spring you will defeat the slipper clutch and be forced to down shift propery, not that 'WE' don't, but if 'We' don't with the Barnett, a quick lesson will be forth coming.

That will come as a little screech of burning rubber as the rear tire gets locked up to hard and fast.

If 'We' really mess up there is a slight chance that a Nomad can fly

[patmahoney]

Friction plates looked almost new when I had it apart last time, though as I said we did not pull them. I will this time. I was looking at the Gorilla clutch kit, and think I will be doing the switch at some point, maybe now is the time. I guess I would rather miss some riding time now than in the spring.

@ Flavor, I have an 02. And I agree changing the fluid is some thing I need to do anyway, even if it won't fix this problem.

[macmac]

The hydralics only work the push rod In and let it out. In theory the push rod should retrack like disk brake pads do, just the slightest touch if any, or a gap even around 0.0005"

The slave cly gets filled with contamination mostly rubber cup particals, and is effected by long term engine heat cycles. Also temp changes create water in the system, that was allowed in any time the cover was off, which counts the time in the factory.

The slave has nothing to do with the clutch slipping on a roll on.... The slave can only mess up in grabbing a hand full of clutch is the fluid isn't all a solid fluid and contains air, or not enough fluid to work.

All the slave does is push a piston to move the push rod, and let it go. The push rod in turn pushs the spring and or lets it go.