ticking lifter ?

[wildbill]

After sitting for two weeks my 03 nomad makes a ticking sound at start up for a few minutes and then stops. Would this be a lifter and if so can you use a oil additive like marvl mystery oil to loosen it up or will it mess up the clutch. Just for info I use shell rotella 5w40 diesel oil in the engine. Bike has 36000 miles on it. ???

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by wildbill

After sitting for two weeks my 03 nomad makes a ticking sound at start up for a few minutes and then stops. Would this be a lifter and if so can you use a oil additive like marvl mystery oil to loosen it up or will it mess up the clutch. Just for info I use shell rotella 5w40 diesel oil in the engine. Bike has 36000 miles on it. ???

No Nomad should be forced to sit for two weeks without being ridden. That's just not right.

[dogdoc]

I would NOT use any oil additive as it could make your clutch slip or worse ruin it. Change your oil to a good 10W-40 full syn oil and go ride it hard.

[ringadingh]

MMO or Seafoam will be fine to add to the crankcase oil, I use it once a rear in my bike and it keeps everything nice and clean in there. Make sure its not a cam chain starting to rub on the spark plug tube. You may be due for extenders.

[macmac]

Cold start?? Two Weeks? The lifters bled down to 0 psi... Just let it run a moment and ride easy 8 miles.

The other thing you can and should consider is listening to the timing chains. You are past the miles to be needing to do this by 6,000... That is cam chain extenders..

Maybe you don't need these right now and maybe you do. A tech stethescope works and so does a metal rod.... Granted these would be different sounds and not all that related.

[wildbill]

The rotella is full syn is it to thin, I never have low oil

[macmac]

I am not sure rotella is a real syn oil in the first place, but it isn't to thin.. Lifters should clatter a little bit, it is when they don't you need to worry.

Do you still have the idle soleioid controlls (ISC's) which clatter like mad? These live inside the stock dog bowk in the intake track.

[dabull]

Originally Posted by macmac

I am not sure rotella is a real syn oil in the first place, but it isn't to thin.. Lifters should clatter a little bit, it is when they don't you need to worry.

Do you still have the idle soleioid controlls (ISC's) which clatter like mad? These live inside the stock dog bowk in the intake track.

runnin debaffed pipes, the rest is stock - Can you disconnect the idle soleioid controlls (ISC's) in this setup or do you need to do something else...and what will do to cold starts (30's in NW Florida)?? thx ....

and if i can do this as is...we got a link to "how - to"?

[macmac]

I removed my ISC's on day 1 of owing my 06.. never looked back. If you want unplug a wire, which will show you what it did, and what you will need to learn.

All they do is add more air when the ecu thinks you need more air added..

You coiuld have a bone stock bike and still disconnect these.

Mine are gone, stored in a card board box in the cellar with all the rest of the stock parts that came off the bike.

Yes starting will likely be different. As soon as my engine starts I tend to hand kold some higher, not much higher, but higher rpm. Then while backing the bike out of the barn, enough heat comes along so the bike will idle a bit better.

In colder weathers I may lock the vista cruise to hold idle rpm.

I ride in the teens so long as there is no road salt, and no black ice. That has been a while and was back in the 80's and 90's when we had snowless winters. Bitter cold and no snow.

As of late first snow comes just about Turkey Day, and will be around 1 foot, which is the last foot to melt come Spring..

I won't ride in salt...

So if you pull a wire each, tape it up, and test if you like this or not. If you do, gadjet has info on How To, and ir you can just ask me... None of it is hard to do.

[kudzufarmer]

Originally Posted by macmac

I removed my ISC's on day 1 of owing my 06.. never looked back. If you want unplug a wire, which will show you what it did, and what you will need to learn.

All they do is add more air when the ecu thinks you need more air added..

You coiuld have a bone stock bike and still disconnect these.

Mine are gone, stored in a card board box in the cellar with all the rest of the stock parts that came off the bike.

Yes starting will likely be different. As soon as my engine starts I tend to hand kold some higher, not much higher, but higher rpm. Then while backing the bike out of the barn, enough heat comes along so the bike will idle a bit better.

In colder weathers I may lock the vista cruise to hold idle rpm.

I ride in the teens so long as there is no road salt, and no black ice. That has been a while and was back in the 80's and 90's when we had snowless winters. Bitter cold and no snow.

As of late first snow comes just about Turkey Day, and will be around 1 foot, which is the last foot to melt come Spring..

I won't ride in salt...

So if you pull a wire each, tape it up, and test if you like this or not. If you do, gadjet has info on How To, and ir you can just ask me... None of it is hard to do.

mac please explain the method to pull these wires you are reffering to.........is this the same as the reed valves on the gadet page where he talks about using marbles?

[ringadingh]

The cold idle solenoids are located in the rh air filter cover, you will see two wires going to each one, disconnect them and tape them up so they don't short out on anything. Thats it.
Mine have been disconnected and removed for years, and I ride in the mid 20's temp. The bike just doesn't idle very well for the first couple minutes until it warms up a bit.

[macmac]

No, Reed valves are not the same things.. The hose that gets plugged if that is the way you go is the largest hose on the backing plate there is. That hose gets plugged in some applications. Mine is in a box in the cellar, with other related junk that goes with it including the reed valves.

Besides a marble, you camn remove everything but the reed valve bodies and cap them off, and or remove then as well and cap off the engine with a plate called 'coaster'. i made my own plates, but do not make these for others as we have a maker here. if you want coasters which i would recomend contact Chuckster. I have seen his and they are nice, coming ready for polishing or paint, with chrome hardware.


To try out no ISC's just un-plug a wire from each unit inside the right hand dog bowl.

If that ends up an effect you desire, then pull them off the brakets and pull off the other wire. Tape up the wires twice, and check the tape once each year. All taped up so the wires can't short each other use a nylon tie to tie them up in the webbing of the backing plate. Pull the 2 hoses as well and cap off the steel tubings.

I run a right side only Caddman airfilter which made bending the ISc's brakets IN a slight bit. The idea is to clear room and streamline air flow.

ISC's feed air around the throttle plate, in a metered way, on demand from the ecu. You can tell when that would be and do it as well of not better than the ecu.

Reed valves feed clean air into the exhaust, after it the fuel was spent, and serves nothing more than heating up the head pipes more.

To remove that garbage you must lift the tank, have caps on hand to cap off one vac port, and the larger reed valve assemblies, unless you use coasters.

If at first you cap off the reed valves as a trial, which the marble is to me, as well as real caps on the coasters, you should know that in time the moving reed valve will burn out, so coasters are the way to make it permanent.

[kudzufarmer]

Originally Posted by macmac

No, Reed valves are not the same things.. The hose that gets plugged if that is the way you go is the largest hose on the backing plate there is. That hose gets plugged in some applications. Mine is in a box in the cellar, with other related junk that goes with it including the reed valves.

Besides a marble, you camn remove everything but the reed valve bodies and cap them off, and or remove then as well and cap off the engine with a plate called 'coaster'. i made my own plates, but do not make these for others as we have a maker here. if you want coasters which i would recomend contact Chuckster. I have seen his and they are nice, coming ready for polishing or paint, with chrome hardware.


To try out no ISC's just un-plug a wire from each unit inside the right hand dog bowl.

If that ends up an effect you desire, then pull them off the brakets and pull off the other wire. Tape up the wires twice, and check the tape once each year. All taped up so the wires can't short each other use a nylon tie to tie them up in the webbing of the backing plate. Pull the 2 hoses as well and cap off the steel tubings.

I run a right side only Caddman airfilter which made bending the ISc's brakets IN a slight bit. The idea is to clear room and streamline air flow.

ISC's feed air around the throttle plate, in a metered way, on demand from the ecu. You can tell when that would be and do it as well of not better than the ecu.

Reed valves feed clean air into the exhaust, after it the fuel was spent, and serves nothing more than heating up the head pipes more.

To remove that garbage you must lift the tank, have caps on hand to cap off one vac port, and the larger reed valve assemblies, unless you use coasters.

If at first you cap off the reed valves as a trial, which the marble is to me, as well as real caps on the coasters, you should know that in time the moving reed valve will burn out, so coasters are the way to make it permanent.

thank you Mac and ring.....I an just learning about the Nomad.....had a C50 before (well actually still do)

[macmac]

I was writting when Ring replied...

[kudzufarmer]

Thanks Guys.

dissconnected the ICS and went riding this morning......much quiter......I was beginning to wonder if I had a lot of valve noise....it appears to have been from the ICS.