Pros and Cons of Vaquero?

[gnomad]

Originally Posted by Gonzo

I have a buddy that has a 2009 Voyager and he is always saying how hot it is. I have a 2012 Voyager and it doesn't seem that hot to me.

The 2012 differs from the 09 in that it has a "Kawasaki Air Management System" that uses a fan and some ductwork to draw heat from the rear cylinder and blows it out under the passenger floorboards.

Back on track almost, saw the green Vaquero Saturday when I bought my 2012 Voyager. That is one good looking bike!

[galax83061]

Originally Posted by bearbait

I have heard that said about the earlier Voyagers. Doesn't seem to be true about the Vaquero (2011 model, at least).

My 2011 Vaquero gets really hot. You can feel the heat just coming off of it. I was told they run hot and are a great heater in the winter lol.

[element80]

Originally Posted by galax83061

My 2011 Vaquero gets really hot. You can feel the heat just coming off of it. I was told they run hot and are a great heater in the winter lol.

truth ^^^

[Monkeyman]

So, how difficult would it be to adapt that Kawasaki Air Management System to an older model?

[Loafer]

Originally Posted by Dave

I don't feel a thing on my bike.

Vibrations getting worse?

[cheriann]

Thank you for answering my concern about the heat from the engine.
It looks like the 2009 to 2011 has that, but not the 2012. I'll find out!

[gnomad]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

So, how difficult would it be to adapt that Kawasaki Air Management System to an older model?

I don't know if it could be done or not, the parts for the fan and duct assembly run about $300. I am not sure if there are any extra parts up front by the radiator. When I get my 2012 beside my brother-in-laws 2011 we will likely do some measuring and see if it can be retrofitted.

[tazfl]

Originally Posted by gnomad

I don't know if it could be done or not, the parts for the fan and duct assembly run about $300. I am not sure if there are any extra parts up front by the radiator. When I get my 2012 beside my brother-in-laws 2011 we will likely do some measuring and see if it can be retrofitted.

don't quote me on this but i thought I read somewhere (either this forum or another) where someone said that the wiring harness was different to accomodate for the extra fan.

[RACNRAY]

Originally Posted by RACNRAY

YEP...spoke to Spaz this mornin, will be looking for the grip and i'll gitterdun!!

RACNRAY

Cheriann...Your grip went out today with the mail, you should see it in a couple of days.

One request...that you ride the new skoot for at least a few hundred miles to get a feel for the overall operation of the throttle and engine response before the modified grip is installed. When installing the new grip don't do ANY other mods at that time. Also proper throttle cable adjustment should be done, there is a post on another forum i can copy/paste and post here if anyone wants that info.

That way you have a good baseline of acquired info to compare the mod to, and report any changes you feel. I appreciate any and all feedback from peeps using this mod, and whatever results you feel helps educate us all.

THANX
RACNRAY

[spazz]

Originally Posted by RACNRAY

Cheriann...Your grip went out today with the mail, you should see it in a couple of days.

One request...that you ride the new skoot for at least a few hundred miles to get a feel for the overall operation of the throttle and engine response before the modified grip is installed. When installing the new grip don't do ANY other mods at that time. Also proper throttle cable adjustment should be done, there is a post on another forum i can copy/paste and post here if anyone wants that info.

That way you have a good baseline of acquired info to compare the mod to, and report any changes you feel. I appreciate any and all feedback from peeps using this mod, and whatever results you feel helps educate us all.

THANX
RACNRAY

RACNRAY can you copy and paste that thread for me. I will be doing the install and any other necessities would be appreciated so that I do it right the first time.

[RACNRAY]

Originally Posted by spazz

RACNRAY can you copy and paste that thread for me. I will be doing the install and any other necessities would be appreciated so that I do it right the first time.

HERE YA GO...

This is in response to requests for this info. I will also include instructions on proper throttle cable adjustment which neither the factory or the dealer knows how to perform!!

#1...park the bike with it in gear to minimize any oopsies from the skoot rolling off the sidestand.

#2...lay a towel over the gas tank to minimize damage to it.

#3...locate the rubber dust covers on both throttle cable adjusters and slide them forward away from the adjusters.

#4...using a 8 and a 10 mm wrench, loosen the two 10mm locknuts(one for each cable) and thread it towards the elbow of the cable. Thread the adjuster all the way to the locknut. This will create alot of slack in the cables and you will have alot of play in the throttle. This will help in removing the cables from the throttle tube itself.

#5...remove the two phillips screws from the top of the throttle housing and remove the top plate also. Locate and remove the phillips screw from the bottom front of the housing, this screw head faces forward.

#6...pull apart the housing halves and you will see the two cables ends and how they are attached to the throttle tube assembly.The barrel ends of the cables reside in round recepticles, those have a slot in them which will allow the cable end to be removed. using a pair of needle nose pliers carefully grab one of the cables, lift up on the cable and slide it to where it is even with the slot in the throttle tube, and then slide the cable and barrel end out, repeat this for the other cable end. NOTE...be careful, as soon as the cable is free from the throttle tube it and the housing it is connected to will fall away, make sure it does not.

#7...installation is the reversal with the following...a little bit of grease or lube in the cable attachment recepticles on the throttle tube and some CRC/WD-40 sprayed on the handlebar and into the throttle tube will make operation smoother. I also use never-sieze on the threads of the housing screws to minimze the potential of these seizing. NOTE...the front half of the housing has a pin protruding from the housing, this pin fits into a hole drilled into the handlebar. MAKE SURE these line up or the housings will not line up properly.

#8...ADJUSTMENT...with everything back together make sure that the throttle grip turns freely, it will have some play in it. At this point if you roll the throttle forward you will feel it stop, it will be a positive stop. The tube is bottoming out in the housing, and the first adjustment is to eliminate this.
Using the adjuster on the rear cable, turn out the adjuster as you "feel" the play in the throttle grip,as you turn out the adjuster you will feel less and less play in the grip. Continue turning out this adjuster untill you have about 3/16" rotational play in the grip. At this point if you roll the grip froward you should no longer feel a positive stop, but will feel tension, you are pulling on the closing cable and that is what we want. Using the 8 & 10 mm wrenches thread the lock nut up to the adjuster and lock the two together. With the handlebars in the straight ahead position thread the adjuster out on the front cable and further reduce the play in the grip. The object here is to have as little play in the grip as possible without binding the cables which will cause the throttle to stick. VERY IMPORTANT HERE...TURN THE HANDLEBARS FULL LOCK LEFT, CHECK FOR PLAY, TURN THE BARS FULL LOCK RIGHT AND CHECK FOR PLAY. The handlebars at full lock in one direction the play will either stay the same or have more play than in the straight ahead position, at opposite full lock play may get LESS, and this is where you must be extremely careful to have play so the grip will close on it's own. Once the adjustement has been done lock the adjuster. I recomend starting the engine, allowing it to come to temp and "blipping" the throttle at all handlebar positions to ensure the rpm drops properly with no "hanging" up. Slide the dust covers back on.

I will be glad to walk thru this by phone so don't hesitate to call.

THANX
RACNRAY

[redjay]

I seem to remember hearing that in addition to the ductwork on the 2012 Voyagers to reduce the heat the radiator is also larger ? A guy on the Delphi forum (Mucker) has bought the parts required to do the retrofit to his 2010 ? Dont think he bought the rad though.

[jestephens]

Originally Posted by spazz

RACNRAY can you copy and paste that thread for me. I will be doing the install and any other necessities would be appreciated so that I do it right the first time.

I installed my grips from RACNRAY yesterday. I was amazed at the difference. It gives a sense of more power, even though nothing was done to the engine, fuel, or exhaust. Love it.
Thanks Ray!

-Jay

[RACNRAY]

Originally Posted by jestephens

I installed my grips from RACNRAY yesterday. I was amazed at the difference. It gives a sense of more power, even though nothing was done to the engine, fuel, or exhaust. Love it.
Thanks Ray!

-Jay

THAT'S GREAT...ENJOY, and thanx for the feedback.

RACNRAY

[cheriann]

Originally Posted by RACNRAY

Cheriann...Your grip went out today with the mail, you should see it in a couple of days.

One request...that you ride the new skoot for at least a few hundred miles to get a feel for the overall operation of the throttle and engine response before the modified grip is installed. When installing the new grip don't do ANY other mods at that time. Also proper throttle cable adjustment should be done, there is a post on another forum i can copy/paste and post here if anyone wants that info.

That way you have a good baseline of acquired info to compare the mod to, and report any changes you feel. I appreciate any and all feedback from peeps using this mod, and whatever results you feel helps educate us all.

THANX
RACNRAY

WOO HOO!!!! Thank you SO MUCH!!!!