Radiator Fan

Fatman · 08-23-2015, 08:07 AM

So after riding for a few hours I noticed that I never once heard my fan turn on like I usually do when I stop or shut down.

I checked the Maintenance Manual and it has the following to check if the fan is working.

Using an auxiliary lead [A], connect the radiator fan switch
connector [B].
Radiator Fan Switch [C]
If the fan rotates, inspect the fan switch (see Radiator Fan
Switch Inspection in this chapter).

My question is what is an "auxiliary lead" and where do I get one?

VulcanE · 08-23-2015, 08:40 AM

Another term for it would be a "jumper wire", and you could use any piece of scrap wire, probably about 3~4 inches long would work.
The only time my fan ever comes on is on a very hot day, in stop & go traffic.

Fatman · 08-23-2015, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VulcanE

Another term for it would be a "jumper wire", and you could use any piece of scrap wire, probably about 3~4 inches long would work.
The only time my fan ever comes on is on a very hot day, in stop & go traffic.

Thanks man. So do I just shunt it. I mean use the wire to loop it back on itself, or do I connect it to a power source?

Bud2rat · 08-23-2015, 08:19 PM

Unplug the fan switch and connect the 2 leads together by the jumper to see if the fan works.

**MAS Tequila** · 08-24-2015, 05:06 AM

Just a side note.

The switch is always hot, it's the ground side that is switched.

So yes, just jump the 2 terminals and it should spin.

If you have a bad fan I have a couple sitting in my warehouse.

MT

Tearitupfixitrepeat · 08-24-2015, 07:42 AM

Check the radiator cap first. That was the issue when my fan quit.

You can borrow a tester from the parts house if you need it.
http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....iator-cap.html

The next check is the fan switch and the fan itself. I wouldn't run a manual switch because that circuit is hot all the time.

mick56 · 08-24-2015, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tearitupfixitrepeat

Check the radiator cap first. That was the issue when my fan quit.

You can borrow a tester from the parts house if you need it.
http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....iator-cap.html

The next check is the fan switch and the fan itself. I wouldn't run a manual switch because that circuit is hot all the time.

Good shout on the substitute cap mate,but i find it enough of a bastard to get the original off in such a confined space,and that's got grip indentation's all around it.

Mongo PHUMC · 08-27-2015, 02:52 PM

My fan sensor-switch went out. Was an easy fix.

I can't remember the exact temps but the fan comes on way high on the temp. Plus, the sensor is at the bottom (coolest) part of the radiator. Really bad design. All automotive fan switches are in the engine themselves. So when the sensor sees 200 degrees it is probably closer to 220-230 coming out of the engine. If I remember correctly the stock switch comes on at 210-220 degrees.

I put an automotive sensor in mine that comes on closer to 190 degrees. I hear my fan come on more now but I feel the poor engine isn't getting cooked. The automotive one had to be spliced onto the factory switch connector is all. I will try to find what one I got.

Edit: it was a Duralast SW526. I also remembered the oring was a little different but I have not had any leak issues from it.

Navigator · 08-27-2015, 07:18 PM

Good stuff Mongo. On my ride back from Canada on a blistering hot day my fan finally came on and I wasn't happy about how long it took. Another bucket list mod for mine.

OldSchool · 08-27-2015, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Navigator

Good stuff Mongo. On my ride back from Canada on a blistering hot day my fan finally came on and I wasn't happy about how long it took. Another bucket list mod for mine.

This is the one that I installed and I do believe bud2rat did also. Perfect fit. I believe this one is made for an ATV (not sure which one) and will kick on when water temp reaches around 194 F. Lower than the Kawi Oem. Fan comes on more but gives me more peace of mind. Plus it costs half the amount the OEM one does.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-270...4ee74d&vxp=mtr

Bud2rat · 08-27-2015, 09:35 PM

Yup, that's the same switch that I used.

Eddie R. · 08-28-2015, 10:25 PM

Replaced my fan switch with the Duralast SW526 tonight. Put an ohm meter on the old one and put it on the burner of the kitchen stove...no meter movement which tells me that its open; defective...is this a good test or should I have boiled water?
Can't start the engine due to the late hour in the neighborhood, so will have to wait to see if the fan comes on tomorrow. And, yes, I shorted the leads together and the fan does come on.

Eddie R. · 08-29-2015, 08:57 PM

Ran bike after the installation of the new Duralast fan switch...fan works as it should. The OEM fan switch was defective. Many thanks to Mongo for the Duralast part number. Oh, it is one of the easiest fixes of any problem on the bike! Only lost maybe two tables spoons of antifreeze. And added male plugs for the wiring.

Ride Safe,

Eddie R.

Mongo PHUMC · 09-07-2015, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddie R.

Ran bike after the installation of the new Duralast fan switch...fan works as it should. The OEM fan switch was defective. Many thanks to Mongo for the Duralast part number. Oh, it is one of the easiest fixes of any problem on the bike! Only lost maybe two tables spoons of antifreeze. And added male plugs for the wiring.

Ride Safe,

Eddie R.

Glad to hear it.

08-23-2015, 08:07 AM	#1
Fatman Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 17	Radiator Fan So after riding for a few hours I noticed that I never once heard my fan turn on like I usually do when I stop or shut down. I checked the Maintenance Manual and it has the following to check if the fan is working. Using an auxiliary lead [A], connect the radiator fan switch connector [B]. Radiator Fan Switch [C] If the fan rotates, inspect the fan switch (see Radiator Fan Switch Inspection in this chapter). My question is what is an "auxiliary lead" and where do I get one? Login or Register to Remove Ads
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08-23-2015, 08:40 AM	#2
VulcanE Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cartersville, Georgia Posts: 4,838	Another term for it would be a "jumper wire", and you could use any piece of scrap wire, probably about 3~4 inches long would work. The only time my fan ever comes on is on a very hot day, in stop & go traffic. __________________ Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381
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08-23-2015, 08:19 PM	#4
Bud2rat Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: St. Pauls, NC Posts: 2,089	Unplug the fan switch and connect the 2 leads together by the jumper to see if the fan works. __________________ Robert Torrey VBA# 02077 Vroc# 27672 1996 800A Customized (SOLD) 2001 1500 Nomad (The Mistress) 2013 Voyager 2014 SE Rally - Elkins, WV 2016 SE Rally - Helen, Ga
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08-24-2015, 05:06 AM	#5
MAS Tequila Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Psychiatric Ward FL Posts: 3,429	Just a side note. The switch is always hot, it's the ground side that is switched. So yes, just jump the 2 terminals and it should spin. If you have a bad fan I have a couple sitting in my warehouse. MT __________________ MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936 Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

08-27-2015, 02:52 PM	#8
Mongo PHUMC Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 81	My fan sensor-switch went out. Was an easy fix. I can't remember the exact temps but the fan comes on way high on the temp. Plus, the sensor is at the bottom (coolest) part of the radiator. Really bad design. All automotive fan switches are in the engine themselves. So when the sensor sees 200 degrees it is probably closer to 220-230 coming out of the engine. If I remember correctly the stock switch comes on at 210-220 degrees. I put an automotive sensor in mine that comes on closer to 190 degrees. I hear my fan come on more now but I feel the poor engine isn't getting cooked. The automotive one had to be spliced onto the factory switch connector is all. I will try to find what one I got. Edit: it was a Duralast SW526. I also remembered the oring was a little different but I have not had any leak issues from it. __________________ 2005 Nomad 1600 Last edited by Mongo PHUMC; 08-27-2015 at 02:54 PM.
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08-24-2015, 07:42 AM	#6
Tearitupfixitrepeat Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Posts: 87	Check the radiator cap first. That was the issue when my fan quit. You can borrow a tester from the parts house if you need it. http://tearitupfixitrepeat.blogspot....iator-cap.html The next check is the fan switch and the fan itself. I wouldn't run a manual switch because that circuit is hot all the time.
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08-27-2015, 07:18 PM	#9
Navigator Advanced Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Banner, WA Posts: 644	Good stuff Mongo. On my ride back from Canada on a blistering hot day my fan finally came on and I wasn't happy about how long it took. Another bucket list mod for mine. __________________ Mike USN Retired 2007 Nomad
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08-27-2015, 09:35 PM	#11
Bud2rat Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: St. Pauls, NC Posts: 2,089	Yup, that's the same switch that I used. __________________ Robert Torrey VBA# 02077 Vroc# 27672 1996 800A Customized (SOLD) 2001 1500 Nomad (The Mistress) 2013 Voyager 2014 SE Rally - Elkins, WV 2016 SE Rally - Helen, Ga
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08-28-2015, 10:25 PM	#12
Eddie R. Jr. Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Fuquay Varina, NC Posts: 48	Replaced my fan switch with the Duralast SW526 tonight. Put an ohm meter on the old one and put it on the burner of the kitchen stove...no meter movement which tells me that its open; defective...is this a good test or should I have boiled water? Can't start the engine due to the late hour in the neighborhood, so will have to wait to see if the fan comes on tomorrow. And, yes, I shorted the leads together and the fan does come on. Last edited by Eddie R.; 08-28-2015 at 10:27 PM.
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08-29-2015, 08:57 PM	#13
Eddie R. Jr. Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Fuquay Varina, NC Posts: 48	Ran bike after the installation of the new Duralast fan switch...fan works as it should. The OEM fan switch was defective. Many thanks to Mongo for the Duralast part number. Oh, it is one of the easiest fixes of any problem on the bike! Only lost maybe two tables spoons of antifreeze. And added male plugs for the wiring. Ride Safe, Eddie R.
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