How to replace Voyager gear indicator switch?

[H8BUGZ]

Can you just remove the shifter and gear change cover to access the switch? According to the service manual, it looks like you have to tear half the left side case apart. Including water separator and generator cover. I've had the clutch slave and front pulley off, but can't remember how its laid out. FYI - My cruise won't set some of the time after 105,000 miles!

[TX1700]

My cruise would not set and it was the switch for the foot brake that needed to be set. I don't have an answer for the gear indicator switch.

[redjay]

+1
My cruise would not set and it was the switch for the foot brake that needed to be set. I don't have an answer for the gear indicator switch.

[andyvh1959]

The shift sensor is mounted to a port on the side of the crankcase/tranny, and it reads a pin set into the gear change shift drum. So it requires some disassembly of the left side of the lower case but you should be able to do it without digging into the engine or tranny.

[The Black Knight]

[H8BUGZ]

Remove left floorboard/shifter assembly (for access only as my jack was in the way). Drain coolant at lower radiator hose, remove lower water pipe, clutch slave cylinder and pulley cover. Loosen belt and remove front pulley.

I ran out of time , but it looks like all that's left, is to remove wiring shield, unplug sensor harness and remove gear change cover.

Fyi: pulley nut is 1.25" 12 point socket. I'll build a tool to hold pulley for tightening.

Thanks for the inoperative switch, cruise issue tips. But I know it's the sensor, as the gear position is off as much as 3 gears sometimes. It always engages when the display is correct.

[H8BUGZ]

[QUOTE=andyvh1959;726281]The shift sensor is mounted to a port on the side of the crankcase/tranny, and it reads a pin set into the gear change shift drum. So it requires some disassembly of the left side of the lower case but you should be able to do it without digging into the engine or tranny

Yes-the speed sensor is in a "port" on top of the case. But the gear position switch is pin operated and inside the gear change housing below the front pulley. Only parts required are a $10 gasket, silicone sealer for the wire harness grommet and a $124 gear indicator switch.

Often the service manual is a little bit overkill, but this operation has you going to several manual sections and taking apart (WAY) more than needed. It's still quite involved, but you are not taking the engine side case off as indicated.

[andyvh1959]

A typical gear indicator switch is a five or six contact pod (depending if its a 5 or 6 speed bike), with a spring loaded pin set into the end of the shifter drum. So as the shifter drum moves when we operate the shifter, the shift drum rotates slightly one way or the other based on an up shift or down shift.

I read a lot comments that the indicator doesn't always show the right gear with every shift, but eventually does indicate properly. The shift drum cannot rotate until the next shift is chosen, so to me that means the indicator pin does not consistently extend to make ground onto the indicator switch. I say ground because the indicator switch has contacts which the indicator pin touches, then the circuit "grounds" through the metal in the tranny. If a shift is made and the indicator pin hangs up for a few seconds and doesn't touch the switch contact, it either does not indicate or perhaps indicates the last shift made. For 6th gear on the 1700, if the switch does not make contact the cruise will not engage as the cruise computer expects a signal for sixth gear engaged.

I bet in most cases, the switch itself is not the issue, but more so the indicator pin not extending to touch the switch contacts. Perhaps riders who use synthetic oils have better more consistent shift indicator results? Maybe take the switch out, then access the indicator pin to see if something hangs it up? Maybe a better spring to push the indicator pin out more consistently?

[H8BUGZ]

Well, my pin and spring extend fully without binding and I use Amsoil synthetic oil. We will soon see.

[gv550]

The manual was originally written in 2009, and on 2009 models you do need to remove the water separator and alternator cover. For 2010 and later models they have a different coolant pipe that can be removed without all the extra work. The pipe is retrofittable to 2009 bikes so just cut the old one off and buy the later one. There has also been an update to the pin and spring, make sure you install the latest versions.

[andyvh1959]

Aha, so Kawasaki realized they had issues with the indicator pin and spring. Otherwise why would they make changes on such an minor part? My bet is the dealers got a lot of complaints of inaccurate shift indicating.

[mbarr10]

Well I sure do not regret the extended warrantee now. I am starting to have this issue too.

Looks like it goes in this winter also. I do like the extra room in the garage though.

Thank you everyone for the input. I know now I should not do this myself.

[Lumberjack]

The indicator reads a specific impeadance for each gear and saw a video for another bike when he replaced the contacts that appeared worn and uneven. I suspect you could sand down flat again to provide good contact so it provides good contact and correct impedance. I believe cruise will not work if the bike cannot determine gear selection.

Originally Posted by andyvh1959

A typical gear indicator switch is a five or six contact pod (depending if its a 5 or 6 speed bike), with a spring loaded pin set into the end of the shifter drum. So as the shifter drum moves when we operate the shifter, the shift drum rotates slightly one way or the other based on an up shift or down shift.

I read a lot comments that the indicator doesn't always show the right gear with every shift, but eventually does indicate properly. The shift drum cannot rotate until the next shift is chosen, so to me that means the indicator pin does not consistently extend to make ground onto the indicator switch. I say ground because the indicator switch has contacts which the indicator pin touches, then the circuit "grounds" through the metal in the tranny. If a shift is made and the indicator pin hangs up for a few seconds and doesn't touch the switch contact, it either does not indicate or perhaps indicates the last shift made. For 6th gear on the 1700, if the switch does not make contact the cruise will not engage as the cruise computer expects a signal for sixth gear engaged.

I bet in most cases, the switch itself is not the issue, but more so the indicator pin not extending to touch the switch contacts. Perhaps riders who use synthetic oils have better more consistent shift indicator results? Maybe take the switch out, then access the indicator pin to see if something hangs it up? Maybe a better spring to push the indicator pin out more consistently?

[H8BUGZ]

Originally Posted by gv550

The manual was originally written in 2009, and on 2009 models you do need to remove the water separator and alternator cover. For 2010 and later models they have a different coolant pipe that can be removed without all the extra work. The pipe is retrofittable to 2009 bikes so just cut the old one off and buy the later one. There has also been an update to the pin and spring, make sure you install the latest versions.

Thanks for the info Gary! Wish I had known sooner, as it's back together with a new switch and working for now.

Sadly the pin is backordered with 100 - 110 day eta! (Per Partzilla)

[The Black Knight]

Thx for the info, mates!