Valve cover leaking

[cheifman]

The back vave cover or cam plug is leaking oil on my 2002 1500 nomad. I was wondering how long of a job this is and if there is a write up for it.

[Bud2rat]

Both of my cam plugs started leaking recently. I ordered 2 valve cover gaskets and 2 cam plugs from Bikebandit.com for $46 including shipping. I then went to the local Kaw dealer for a price estimate. They stated that it was a 9.2 hr job for a labor cost of $790, said motor had to be removed. (redicilious) I then went to a local MC shop and the owner said that it was a 4.5 hr job at a cost of $240, owner said the motor mounts would have to be loosened and the motor lowered into the frame. This allows access to the rear valve cover. However, he has a 3 week waiting list.

[Lurch]

I thought my covers were leaking and went to my service shop, they wanted over $500. At a closer look it was the cam plugs. I just cleaned them off real good and applied Permatex ultra black gasket maker, pushing it in around the edges, and it sealed them up (it did take a few cleanings and applications since it's hard to get the top of the plug under the cover.) It doesn't take much time or money to try it.

[xlock]

Are you sure it's not oil blowing off from being overfilled? check out this thread...

http://vulcanbagger.com/forums/showt...highlight=plug

[tomm]

Originally Posted by Bud2rat

Both of my cam plugs started leaking recently. I ordered 2 valve cover gaskets and 2 cam plugs from Bikebandit.com for $46 including shipping. I then went to the local Kaw dealer for a price estimate. They stated that it was a 9.2 hr job for a labor cost of $790, said motor had to be removed. (redicilious) I then went to a local MC shop and the owner said that it was a 4.5 hr job at a cost of $240, owner said the motor mounts would have to be loosened and the motor lowered into the frame. This allows access to the rear valve cover. However, he has a 3 week waiting list.

To replace a cam plug, if that is in fact what the problem is, I'm more inclined to believe the 9 hour quote than the 4.5 hour quote. At a minimum, the engine mounts need to be removed and the engine lowered, and there is a lot of stuff that has to be removed before you can do that. At that point, it's easier just to remove the engine entirely to work on it. Took Mac and I about 6-1/2 hours to pull the engine on my 1600 and remove the cover and rocker case, and about 8 hours to put it back together again. And I spent maybe another couple of hours on top of that doing things like removing the tank, etc.

To get at the cam plug, both the valve cover and the rocker case need to be removed, as the plug is between the head and the rocker case, not the rocker case and the cover. There is no gasket between the head and the rocker case. They are machined together, and require a special Kawasaki gasket maker between them. And you'll likely need to replace a couple of o-rings as well. At least that's the way it is on the 1600.

If you think the plugs are leaking, definitely try cleaning them and getting some gasket maker in there to seal them from the outside. If it works, you are way ahead of the game.

If it's the covers that are leaking, you still have to lower the engine, but obviously don't need to pull the rocker cases. Just pull the covers and replace the gaskets.

Either way, a lot of work if sealing them from the outside doesn't stop the leaking and you actually have to replace them.

[ringadingh]

Try to rub some silicone sealer into the plug first before you remove everything.
Just make sure that you clean the area and the plug very well first and remove all traces of dirt and oil.
I did this on my bike and it has held for over three years so far.

[cheifman]

Thanks guys I will try the silicone trick tonight. I looked a bit closer and think its the cam plug.

[Bud2rat]

Thanks Tom for the input. It is definitely the cam plugs leaking. I'm going to try the silicone method first. If that doesn't work, then it is going to the shop. I believe it would be a little much for me to handle.

[smokey]

Just for info, it is a common problem with these bikes, not sure if it is the rubber hardening with the heat, but it just started on my friends 04 Nomad, I told him to clean the area off and then use JB weld to coat over the plug, seems to have stopped the seepage for now, more of an annoyance than anything because the amount of oil that seeps out is very minor. Also check to see you don't have too much oil as the pressure build up will also contribute to the leak. I had it on my BUBF and did the JB weld bit, and basically ignored it.

[rolfe]

I would check the oil level and keep it just below your top mark.

Try using some Marvel Mystery Oil in with the gas for a few fill ups and see if that may help.

Also refrain from using any type of additives other than the one mentioned above. Just a note that Ethanol in our gasoline strips the inside of our aluminium engines, gaskets, silicones, rubber parts and etc.

If the above fails then try sealing from the outside.
and of course the final option would be engine work.

[macmac]

Hope it isn't too late.......... might not matter much any way.

Clean the area well first with electrical spray/ carbon tet or dry cleaning solvent, all about the same thing. The idea is to get the area clean enough for other sealers.

This is a cheat fix and not the real fix which requires dropping or removing the engine from the frame.

ATV's / Silicon sealers are NOT all equal either. Currently there is a gray and thin sealer on the market that is made for just this fix.

I forget the blasted name however. The right way of course still uses this sealer on both surfaces, but can work forced in a crack as a cheat.

[tomm]

Originally Posted by macmac

Hope it isn't too late.......... might not matter much any way.

Clean the area well first with electrical spray/ carbon tet or dry cleaning solvent, all about the same thing. The idea is to get the area clean enough for other sealers.

This is a cheat fix and not the real fix which requires dropping or removing the engine from the frame.

ATV's / Silicon sealers are NOT all equal either. Currently there is a gray and thin sealer on the market that is made for just this fix.

I forget the blasted name however. The right way of course still uses this sealer on both surfaces, but can work forced in a crack as a cheat.

Hi Mac,
Good to hear from you. Your expertise is definitely missed.

Hope things are on the upswing.

Tom

[Bud2rat]

Originally Posted by tomm

To replace a cam plug, if that is in fact what the problem is, I'm more inclined to believe the 9 hour quote than the 4.5 hour quote. At a minimum, the engine mounts need to be removed and the engine lowered, and there is a lot of stuff that has to be removed before you can do that. At that point, it's easier just to remove the engine entirely to work on it. Took Mac and I about 6-1/2 hours to pull the engine on my 1600 and remove the cover and rocker case, and about 8 hours to put it back together again. And I spent maybe another couple of hours on top of that doing things like removing the tank, etc.

To get at the cam plug, both the valve cover and the rocker case need to be removed, as the plug is between the head and the rocker case, not the rocker case and the cover. There is no gasket between the head and the rocker case. They are machined together, and require a special Kawasaki gasket maker between them. And you'll likely need to replace a couple of o-rings as well. At least that's the way it is on the 1600.

If you think the plugs are leaking, definitely try cleaning them and getting some gasket maker in there to seal them from the outside. If it works, you are way ahead of the game.

If it's the covers that are leaking, you still have to lower the engine, but obviously don't need to pull the rocker cases. Just pull the covers and replace the gaskets.

Either way, a lot of work if sealing them from the outside doesn't stop the leaking and you actually have to replace them.

Thanks Tom for the feed back. I figured thst I would try the silicone first before carrying it to the shop. So far, the outside fix seems to be working. I have put over 300 miles on her and NO leaks.

[cheifman]

Thanks guys I did the silacone trick and it is working well. Thanks for the info.