The newest hitch on the market

[buckey1313]

Well I keep my ball on all year round not that big a deal to me. Mine when mounted was much lower than Lumberjacks pictures show. I placed the tongue on top of the plate as had plenty of room to do that with room to spare. Not sure why Lumberjacks so so close to bottom of fender I did not have that problem at all. My Freedom Performance Pipes had no problem installing them with this hitch.

My plug for trailer was also easier to install than the Chucksters just drilled two hole and was away,.

I think this is an outstanding option for the Vulcan 1700 towing crowd better than others I believe.

[BudMan]

I could fit the tongue on the top. Not a lot of clearance but it would fit.
I'm very pleased with it. And I ordered it on Sunday and he shipped it on Monday.
Can't beat that.

[buckey1313]

Yes Budman his shipping was just awesome to me also I was shocked I think it was only 3 days to get to me. Who can complain about that. I remember what I did now I put two thick washers between plate and bag rails to bring it down again.

Now check those bolts often only thing I did not like was the bolts for the bag rails he suppled. They are not high tempered bolts so I replaced them with allot better quality bolts than he supplied.

[BonVoyager]

Originally Posted by buckey1313

...... Mine when mounted was much lower than Lumberjacks show......Not sure why Lumberjacks is so close to bottom of fender I did not have that problem at all......

LumberJack has a Vaquero, the fender is longer on a Vaquero, that’s why he has less room.

Any issues with feeling like the hitch is flexing on the saddlebag supports? I have looked into possibly buying this but I really want a hitch that mounts to the frame of the bike like a McHitch or an OpenRoad.

There is just something about towing with the saddlebag supports that doesn’t make me feel comfortable, but I haven’t come across a single thread where it seemed to have caused any issues with damage to the bag supports or separation while towing or anything like that, so perhaps I am overthinking this.

I will be towing a 380lb Time Out Camper and any gear I bring in/on the trailer will just add to that. I know that tongue weight and tow weight are entirely different, I’m just worried about the trailer bouncing and jarring from these crap roads and stressing and damaging the bag supports. Anyone notice their bags leaning differently since towing?

[buckey1313]

The saddle bag supports are very strong. When I had my accident the Chucksters hitch the tongue bent but the saddle bag frame and rails stayed strong as heck.I could not believe it that the tongue was bent as quite a bit of metal there.

The only thing that is not great about this hitch is the bolts. I exchanged them out for a much better tempered bolts to be on the safe side if things. These he supplies are just common bolts with hardly any temper to them.

[BonVoyager]

Originally Posted by buckey1313

The saddle bag supports are very strong. When I had my accident the Chucksters hitch the tongue bent but the saddle bag frame and rails stayed strong as heck.I could not believe it that the tongue was bent as quite a bit of metal there.

The only thing that is not great about this hitch is the bolts. I exchanged them out for a much better tempered bolts to be on the safe side if things. These he supplies are just common bolts with hardly any temper to them.

Thanks for the reply.

[BonVoyager]

In your video you say you aren’t sure if your old hitch was the McHitch or Chuckster’s. Did the old hitch go all the way up to the fender struts or just stay down at the saddlebag brackets?

[buckey1313]

They only mounted to the saddle bag supports and in no other spot

[BonVoyager]

Originally Posted by buckey1313

They only mounted to the saddle bag supports and in no other spot

Then that was the Chuckster’s hitch. Square tubing welded together with a removable drawbar.

I bit the bullet and bought the hitch you got directly from their website. Cost me $185 shipped, $14 less than if I got it from them on eBay.

[buckey1313]

Hey think you made a wise choice there for a fact. I sure like this better than old one.

[BonVoyager]

Originally Posted by buckey1313

Hey think you made a wise choice there for a fact. I sure like this better than old one.

Ordered it last night at 8:13pm, got an email from them this morning with tracking info, it’s already been shipped! Should be here Wednesday!!

[mbarr10]

Ordered it last night at 8:13pm, got an email from them this morning with tracking info, it’s already been shipped! Should be here Wednesday!!
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Lets compare notes, I went with Chucksters. Will be here Thursday. Trying to finish my 4 pin "y" harness now. Can Not figure out the Brake light part though, no brake comes out of the isolator, So I assume the blinkers carry the current. Looking for a local person to test it on Any other 4 pin trailer.

[Sabre-t]

Originally Posted by mbarr10

Lets compare notes, I went with Chucksters. Will be here Thursday. Trying to finish my 4 pin "y" harness now. Can Not figure out the Brake light part though, no brake comes out of the isolator, So I assume the blinkers carry the current. Looking for a local person to test it on Any other 4 pin trailer.

I just finished rewiring and putting new lights on my trailer yesterday.

I'm assuming your 4-pin unit on the bike is standard 3 source male pins plus a female ground. The yellow/green wires (left side is yellow/right side is green assuming "standard" colors) carry the brake and turn signals. The running lights are brown. Brakes and turn signals on a 4-pin are controlled totally by the isolator.

Do the turn signals work on the trailer? If so, you probably have either a defective isolator or a bad connection to the bike brake wire. If neither the turn signals or the brakes work on the trailer, but the running lights do, you probably have a bad isolator.

If you have a volt meter, check for voltage between the pins for green and yellow and ground while applying the brakes or turn signals. That will save you having to find someone else with a trailer.

You probably already know this, but if you have a brake modulator, be sure to connect the brakes to the isolator BEFORE the modulator. Otherwise, the folks behind you won't be able to tell if you have a turn signal on if you are applying brakes also, at least not until the modulator settles down to a steady on state.

[BonVoyager]

Originally Posted by mbarr10

Lets compare notes, I went with Chucksters. Will be here Thursday. Trying to finish my 4 pin "y" harness now. Can Not figure out the Brake light part though, no brake comes out of the isolator, So I assume the blinkers carry the current. Looking for a local person to test it on Any other 4 pin trailer.

Brake light wire color on our bikes is blue. Did you tap into the correct wire? Also, an isolator and a signal converter are different things. Are you using a signal converter?

Some are a signal converter and isolator built into one unit, some perform only one of those functions. You need the signal converter when you are taking the separate brake and turn signal functions of the bike and using them in a trailer that has combined brake and turn signals in one unit.

The isolator is just an electronic breaker that trips if there’s a short anywhere in the trailer wiring or trailer harness to protect the bikes wiring from being damaged. It also allows full battery voltage to go to the trailer while protecting those wires.

Also, I private messaged you, check your inbox.

[mike58]

Hope this helps a little pictures from a 1600 nomad but i assume all bikes have the same idea for wiring the breaks. The unit takes the 5 wires in from the bike and separates to 4 wires out to fix the exact problem you are having. It also separates the trailer from the bike system so if you ever have a trailer problem it will not affect the bike wiring.