Wiring sealed beam running lights

[Bull Durham]

Sorry for posting here, but it doesn't seem I'm allowed to post under electrical. Question I have is this:

I've had a pair of Chuckster's light bar and setup (relay wiring) for a while now. I am replacing the white light, H3 bulb with a sealed beam, Amber - non fluted colored.

Now, the new sealed beam comes with two electrical posts on the back (see picture). I'm not quite sure how to wire this. Obviously I would need to make a new connection from the old hot (1 wire system) to the sealed beam, and with the second connector on the back of the sealed beam, run that directly to ground? Like back in the headlight bucket, or like how I see Netnorske did, run a ground right to the bolt on the running light bucket?

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Bull Durham

Sorry for posting here, but it doesn't seem I'm allowed to post under electrical. Question I have is this:

I've had a pair of Chuckster's light bar and setup (relay wiring) for a while now. I am replacing the white light, H3 bulb with a sealed beam, Amber - non fluted colored.

Now, the new sealed beam comes with two electrical posts on the back (see picture). I'm not quite sure how to wire this. Obviously I would need to make a new connection from the old hot (1 wire system) to the sealed beam, and with the second connector on the back of the sealed beam, run that directly to ground? Like back in the headlight bucket, or like how I see Netnorske did, run a ground right to the bolt on the running light bucket?

You've got the right idea. One of the posts on the lamp is (+), the other is (-). You connect the existing (+) wire from the llight wiring to the (+) post on the lamp. Then run a wire from the (-) post on the lamp to ground. I would also suggest running a ground wire from the forks (triple tree, headlight bucket bolt, wherever) to somewhere on the frame. This will reduce pitting of your steering head bearings caused by current passing through them.

[Bull Durham]

Thanks for the reply, CJ, appreciated. I looked over the sealed beam just now, nothing shows any + or -, so I guess just pic left or right, doesn't matter? One more question, never had these non fluted before. Do people put the actual wire filament horizontal or vertical? Does it make any difference in light output, the way there positioned? Horizontal, more light up and down, Vertical more light left and right?

[VulcanE]

Bull, I got a question, Where did you find the non-fluted bulbs you have?
Also, you want your wire filament to be horizontal, but I suppose with the non-fluted lens, it probably doesn't matter.

[Top Cat]

You are correct it does not matter which post is positive or negative.
I ran one ground wire to a bolt behind the triple tree on the frame in front of the gas tank.

[Bull Durham]

VulcanE, I ended up buying from J&P Cycle, online. Only one of the auto stores around here even had the amber in stock, and it was the fluted and more expensive. Nothing wrong with the fluted, I just like the old style look of the non-fluted better. The part # is: 381-520 and description is: NONFLUTED AMBER SEALED BEAM. $19.99 apiece and with shipping, was $39.98. It was still better than the auto store, which I think was about $22 bucks apiece.

I've had them on a couple days now, really like them, especially in daytime, think I'm more visible. Rode home from work the last two days in a torrential downpour, and cars gave me my space.

I ended up not cutting off the H3 single hot wire plug on the bike side, went and soldiered on a male end - built in protector and then the other end soldiered on a round eye connector for connecting up to the sealed beam, heat shrinked both sides, works out real nice. That way if I ever go back to a H3 bulb, I'm good to go.

I thought about running the ground wire to the outside running bolts like Netnorske did, I believe, then said hell with it, soldiered up and heat shrinked a nice lead with eye connectors on each end, ran one from the bulb and out along the hot wire back into the headlight bucket and grounded it under one of the bolts. Did the same for the other running light. Used real small zip strips to put the ground along with the hot, turned out real nice, looks good.

And, couple years ago after reading Mac's recommendation, ran a nice thick gauge ground wire from the front to the body, so bypassing the neck bearings.