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10-29-2011, 04:03 PM | #1 |
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Location: Goodyear AZ
Posts: 331
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Clutch torque question
I got the gorilla friction plates and the Barnett clutch spring. When I took the clutch apart, the friction plates were shot too.
When trying to remove the 27mm nut, the clutch would slip, and the gears would not engage so that I could put a penny in the gears to hold it. After I hit it with a torque wrench, the nut came loose. I installed the new friction plates and the Barnett Clutch, but when I try to torque it, the clutch is still slipping, and the gears do not engage. Have I missed a step, or do I have bigger problems on the back side of the clutch?? Should the clutch slip like that so that I can't torque it?? I have the torque limiter springs properly installed, so I don't think that is the problem. It seems like the clutch is not engaging the shaft. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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10-29-2011, 09:26 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
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Did you try putting the penny back in? That might do it for you.
Also check Gadgets Fixit site, it has a great how too on replacing the clutch spring. |
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10-30-2011, 09:55 AM | #3 |
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I followed Gadgets page. The problem is that the inner clutch assembly does not seem to engage the shaft. I am beginning to think that there is a problem with the internal workings.
I re installed the friction plates and metal plates about 4 times yesterday, then installed the torque spacers and the new clutch plate following Gadgets instructions and the pictures in the tech section of this forum. There is definitely something else that is a problem with this, and process of elimination seems to indicate the inner clutch assembly, but I could be wrong. |
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10-30-2011, 10:36 AM | #4 |
I'm surprised that Mac or MT have not jumped in on this one yet. They would be your best bet for advice.
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10-30-2011, 01:41 PM | #6 |
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desertdog --- I have no idea about your problem, but I'd suggest you forget about it til next weekend. Give you time to stop being frustrated. Once you look at it again, you might see something small you missed the first time.
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10-30-2011, 01:49 PM | #7 |
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I am not gone yet, but I am not sure what the problem is in this case. I'll look in the book.
Did you skip Step 13? (joking) I can only think of 2 problems unless something is really broke. 1 did you oil the plates which assists in friction. 2 A penny is a must have to tighten to spec, and you would want to be in 1st gear with the wheel on the ground to assist the engine tranny in not slipping. ( Or use a disk lock against the caliper, and getting it there in neutral, and then getting the tranny in 1st. If the inner clutch baskets is turning, so is the engine, unless something is busted bad. If it were me I would pull the rear plug cly 2 and stick a 1/8th inch dowel in the pug hole, making sure the piston is up by hand first, and then mark the dowel as a marker to see if the piston moved at all. Then with a nylon strap wrench on just the inner basket (minimal stuff to just turn this part) turn it hard on the shaft. If the basket turns and the engine doesn't you have a problem. Make sure the 3 washers are installed correctly " )() " The penny is a crushable soft zinc plate to lock the gears as a jam fit, that is soft, but too thick to pass the gears and let the gears move, in both un- doing and then re- torquing the 27mm nut. Be certain that Hell Hole is plugged with a paper towel at all times untill you get this fixed and are putting the cover back on. Also I strongly suggest you get the hydralics all checked out with the side cover still off the clutch. You will see and feel the clutch lever working this way. You will see the new clutch spring flex. You can pull the lever IN and roll the bike a few feet, to stop it in 1st gear by letting the lever loose. I don't really think you have anything else broken, but just are not aware the penny needs to be used to tighten. What ever you do Do Not Tighten with air tools! That will indeed break parts that you don't want broken, and that will probably be the threaded shaft end for that 27 mm nut!
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Last edited by macmac; 10-30-2011 at 02:42 PM.
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10-30-2011, 03:08 PM | #8 |
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Mac: When I first went to loosen the 27mm nut, the shaft turned easily, but the inner clutch did not move. So there is no transfer of force from the inner to the outer clutch. When I hit the nut with the impact wrench the nut spun off, but I did not have to put a penny in the gears to stop the rotation of the outer clutch or use any force to hold it.
I did soak the plates in oil as per instructions. It was like the inner clutch is not locked onto the shaft. I can turn the inner basket by itself using my hands, the shaft does not rotate. Yesterday I did put it in gear and tried to tighten the nut, the shaft tries to turn the rear wheel on the ground, so that part seems to be ok, but there does not seem to be any force on the inner clutch. The nut spins the shaft, the inner clutch stays in place, and the outer clutch does not move either, nor is any force required to hold everything in place, but the shaft spins, (I don't think its supposed to be doing that). So I am thinking that something may be broken in the guts of the inner clutch. I am going to call Sherms tomorrow and talk with them, I also have a mechanic I think would be able to tear down the inner clutch if I pull it. I am speculating that the inner clutch damper cam ears may have broke off. I don't have the tools to tackle that myself. |
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10-30-2011, 03:16 PM | #9 |
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Is either the shaft splines gone on the basket or the shaft? If so I would think you would be screeming bloody hell!.... There would be a royal mess of metal too.
I do my fair share of dumb things too, but are you sure you were not in neutral?
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06 1600 Nomad Just call me Mac molon labe come and get it
Last edited by macmac; 10-30-2011 at 04:12 PM.
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10-30-2011, 04:31 PM | #10 |
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Yup, I am sure I am not in neutral. I will pull everything tomorrow morning and take a look again.
The inner clutch basket should not rotate on the shaft if its properly put together, and it does, so I am thinking that is probably the issue. Thanks for the suggestions. |
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10-30-2011, 07:18 PM | #11 |
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When you get down to the last shaft with a spline on it, see if it turns by hand. You might wrap a rag on it real good, and get it with a stilson wrench. Don't burr it all up. But if that turns and the tranny is in gear you got bigger headaches.
I would never have heard a tail like that yet on Nomads. I sure hope I am not right. The next best bad is a busted inner basket. I can't imagine that either. I really hope you made a minor error in the assembly, and find it.
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10-31-2011, 09:47 AM | #12 |
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When I went to remove the 27 mm nut on initial dis assembly the inner clutch basket was not locked in on the shaft. So I am thinking that I need to check that out first.
If that is ok, then its just an assembly problem, and that I can fix. Process of elimination. Right now I definitely would feel better taking the inner clutch to a mechanic and have them look at it. If they say its ok, I won't have to worry about that part. |
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10-31-2011, 10:40 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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10-31-2011, 10:54 AM | #14 |
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Not Mac but it's a pipe wrench
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10-31-2011, 11:08 AM | #15 |
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That's what I was thinking, never heard of a "stilson wrench".
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Scott "Cactusjack" Hanks VBA #00105 H.O.G. #4250060 2011 H-D Ultra Limited 103ci :: 2011 HD Electra Glide Ultra Limited w/Stage 1 :: Rallies: Mesquite '08|Custer '09|Cortez '10|Crescent City '11|Kanab '12|Antlers '12|Estes Park '13|Antlers '13|Orofino '14|The Dalles '17 |
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