Air intake resistor and fan over ride comp!ere.

[ak602]

So I added a resistor (680 ohm 1/2 watt) to the air intake temperature sensor wire.
I also added the fan over ride switch. I did this with a relay so that the fan would shut off with the key.

I didn't get to go to far but the resistor mod seems to have definitely smoothed out the power band and woken the bike up a bit. I added the resistor on the ECU side. Very easy.

I'll see how it goes.

[Ken Vega]

Look into Ivans ECU flash. No need to do all that other stuff

[ak602]

Agreed. However my budget is very tight.

[Bluemeanie]

I'd be interested in knowing what you think of the resistor mod after a few long rides.

[ak602]

I will definitely keep you updated.

[dlars]

Originally Posted by Ken Vega

Look into Ivans ECU flash. No need to do all that other stuff

If that's all he's looking to do, a resistor, solder, and some wire is pretty darn cheap in comparison. Although if I hadn't already installed a PCV with autotune I would probably have gone the ECU reflash route myself.

[Gypsy Dragon]

I have a PCV and got the flash done also. The benefits like the timing retards being removed, the throttle opening linearity, and the fan coming on at cooler temps will still be worth having it in my opinion.

[ak602]

So today for the first time since I added this resistor, I got to take her for a 50 mile spin. Now I can tell you this. There is a noticeable difference in the responsiveness of the bike. Its crisper and sounds a bit deeper.

The engine temp gauge did not go up past half, however its only 60 degrees out today.

So far I am pleased with this modification for the $2.00 it cost me.

In the future I may have the PCM flashed however for now considering I only have drilled pipes, I have accomplished my goal.

I am either going to add a K and N to the factory air filter location or try to do some type if inexpensive air mod to the right side non functional cover.

[Sabre-t]

If the temp gauge didn't go past half way, I doubt that your mod had any affect. As I understand it, that temp sensor is only to retard the timing if it reads too high a temperature to prevent preignition. That only happens on very hot days and slow or standing still traffic. When that happens you know it. Big drop off in power. Neither the resistor or the fan bypass should result in "a noticeable difference...sound a bit deeper" on a 60 degree day unless you were in a lot of stop and go traffic.

I have only had it happen once, in less than 5 mile and hour traffic (more stop than go) on the highway for about 2 miles. It was over 100° that day. As soon as I got moving, the temp gauge which had been a little past 3/4 dropped below 3/4 and the drop off went away. That was before I installed the Chuckster BAK. Hasn't happened since.

My 2 cents: the fan mod won't hurt anything. At worst, it will delay or prevent the timing retard since you are doing more cooling. The resistor mod, on the other hand, is preventing the ECU from protecting the engine from preingnition and you are risking engine damage. Finding a way to cool the air getting sucked in would be a better choice. That is what I think happened when I installed the BAK, more air flow and some of that between the cylinders that wasn't possible with the stock filter. Keeps the air and the heads cooler.

Then again, I might be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

[ak602]

I think your missing the concept. The resistor makes the computer think the air temperature is slightly colder. By doing this it richens the mixture slightly. By make the bike run richer the fuel cools the cylinders by nature. A lean bike runs hotter. Thats why when a bike runs lean the plugs get "white hot"

There is a definite difference in the way the bike runs. Hands down worth the $2.00

[Sabre-t]

Well, that is definitely counter to what I have seen posted on Vulcan forums (may or may not have been here). Oh well, I don't plan on doing that mod anyway, but I do want to understand what's going on.

[Mrstrike]

unless there is a dyno test to support the Mod to show ,scientifically, the gains. All information is anecdotal in nature.

I have seen similar "plug in" chips for cars ($35) that add a resistor to the IAT (Intake Air Temp)and or TPS (throttle Position Sensor).
The device puts the car at a Higher risk by feeding False information to the ECU.

ak602,
if you choose to spend $2 on your bike for the increased risk, and perceived gains so be it. Its a free country bud.

for me that is the same as saying " Bah, Ill buy the cheapest Condom possible when going to the Taiwan Whore House with lots of coughing."

odds are you wont get the Super-AIDS, but do you want to risk it to save $0.50?

FYI lots of people buy this device too called a Tornado Air


my 2 cts
cheers
chad

[ak602]

So contrary to all the nonsense. I rode 140 miles today and the bike still outshines it's performance last year. I didn't just do this mod by the seat of my pants. I spent hours researching it. To each their own. For those interested I'd be glad to share more.

[Bluemeanie]

I'm one of the few that can believe that the resistor mod did make a difference. On my Voyager I know for a fact that it runs better when the weather is cooler. While I can't speak to how well this mod works on a 1700, I can say for a fact that on a 1500 it was worth it. When I had my 1500 it pinged extremely bad in the summer, to the point I didn't want to ride, added the resistor and most of the pinging went away, more importantly was that the plug color was now a nice tan. The rest of the pinging was resolved with the addition of a BAK in addition to the resisitor.

[ak602]

Agreed, Im going to pull the plugs in a few more miles and check how they are burning. I have a set of champion iridium i may put in.