VN1500 Nomad transmission noise

MrMoose · 07-10-2016, 08:47 PM

Hello all!

Introducing myself here and making a request for help. I am looking forward to picking your brains and maybe making a contribution or two where I can. Have always enjoyed forums for all of my vehicles, really good info and camaraderie.

Since I got the Nomad a few months ago I noticed an annoying noise when the bike was rolling, it is like what a speedometer cable sounds like when it is going bad. It continues to make the sound when coasting down a hill in neutral with the engine off, also pulling the clutch makes no difference. The other day the noise got considerably worse adding a clunking element. I was hoping that it was a bad universal in the driveshaft, but it isn't. The noise seems to be coming from the transmission. I pulled the clutch cover to see if anything was wonky in there but it all looks good. The sound seems to be originating from just behind the rear cylinder.

If anyone can watch a video that I posted on YouTube and identify the noise for me (or at least make a suggestion) I would be exceedingly grateful. I am pretty mechanically inclined having worked on cars and bikes for 40 years, but I am new to this bike and could use a hand diagnosing the problem.

In the video I am turning the rear wheel with the bike up on a lift.

Here is the link to the video:

Thanks! Steve

redjay · 07-10-2016, 08:51 PM

So all you are doing in the video is turning the rear wheel with the bike in neutral ?

MrMoose · 07-10-2016, 08:52 PM

That is correct.

radco · 07-10-2016, 09:25 PM

I wonder if that noise can be the universal ! That is one loud clunk. Please post what you find, How many miles on your bike?

Oh Yea WELCOME to the group.. A TON of great people her ,sooner or later a gear head will chim in

MrMoose · 07-10-2016, 11:23 PM

I hoped it was the universal at first, but it really doesn't seem to be. I listened very carefully near the shaft and I determined that the sound seemed to be coming from more in the center of the transmission. Naturally this has me worried as I am not keen on splitting the case. Don't know but what I might bail on the bike if that were the case. It's got around 28K on it. Thanks!

MrMikey · 07-11-2016, 02:21 AM

Damn that sounds terrible, sounds like a bad bearing if it's not the universal joint. Have you got a stethscope or a piece of hose will sometimes work to isolate the sound .........Mike

**MAS Tequila** · 07-11-2016, 04:17 AM

Check the front bevel gear drive.

That sounds like one of the bearings is shot and has a lot of play in it.

MT

**vulcanscott** · 07-11-2016, 05:56 AM

I am with Mas on this one !

MrMoose · 07-11-2016, 08:30 AM

Thanks guys for the input. MAS, I will look into that as getting to those bearings is a heck of lot easier than digging into the transmission. I know that sound travels and can be difficult to pinpoint, but by your experience the noise of a bevel gear could 'throw its voice' so it sounds deep in the trans?

Looks like I have to do some reading on here about the bevel gear and its bearings.

Again, thanks!!

MrMoose · 07-13-2016, 09:07 AM

Well MAS if I could I would shake your hand. But since we are at opposite North-South ends of the country I can only offer a virtual handshake and this:

The problem turned out to be the bearing exactly as you called it. Fortunately I only rode the bike a couple miles after it got this noisy; the gears themselves look fine.

Here is a video of what is going on:

I'm thinking about taking the assembly to Kawasaki and seeing how much they would charge me to rectify this. Changing the bearing I don't think would be too difficult, but I know the gears have to be re-aligned afterwards and that probably should be left to the pros.

Thanks again, and I hope this thread can help others who experience a similar noise.

MrMoose · 07-15-2016, 11:15 PM

Well the next thing is, I was unaware of the need to loosen the staked nut before taking the case off the bike. Does anyone have a nifty trick to hold the bevel gear to avoid shelling out $80 for a tool I will only use once?

I've ordered a bunch of shims to set up the gears and a new bearing, but when the counter guy told me how much the tool was I closed my wallet. The parts I have to have but I would like to avoid buying that shaft tool.

gtxr · 07-22-2016, 12:24 AM

As long as the pinion bearing is still fine? The one that is not wobbling and goes to the u joint side of the bevel gear set. Then all you have to do is unbolt the pinion side from the case and slide it out of the way to get at the outer crown gear and bearing. Just replace the outer bearing and use the same shims. Cant remember if there is shims on that side or not. But if you just replace the bad bearing and put it back together without changing the pinion/small bearing side. You will not have to re shim anything. However its hard to tell the gear condition? but im going to say that you will probably have a small gear whine after re assembly. Do to the gears wearing a little funny because of the worn bearing. Make any sense to you. Ive done this a few times and no issues.
If you do both side and rear bearings in that case you will have to reshim and it is a bit of a tedious procedure.

gtxr · 07-22-2016, 12:27 AM

As for the staked nut. Pull the outer seal/cap copper coloured cap off of the housing. Then use your driveshaft as a holder to hole the assembly together either on the bike or in a vise. Then a good impact gun will pull the nut off. Hope this helps.

MrMoose · 08-08-2016, 10:15 PM

gtxr - thanks for the input, I really appreciate all the advice from those who have been down this road before.

I ended up buying the tool for removing the staked nut. Worked like a champ, I'll probably try to find a way to sell it once this is all done.

Once I took the nut off I was able to slide the shaft out and the bevel gear came out from under the driven gear. Also got the bearing out (junk), and looks like I will be able to get the new one in without taking the driven gear out, it seems there will be room. Gear condition is great, I only rode it for a couple miles once it started making the ugly noises.

If I don't take the driven gear out you say I will be able to use the shim that was under the drive gear? That would be sweet. Kinda makes sense to me, but the Clymer's manual really stresses setting the backlash and aligning the tooth pattern. I wasn't looking forward to that so if I can skip it by putting the thing back the way it came apart I'll be happy. I can put up with a little whine, but one thing is for sure I DO NOT want to have to pull it all apart again!

gtxr · 08-12-2016, 08:15 PM

Put it all back together and check the backlash. If its withing the manual specs it will be fine. Like i said possible gear whine do to the gears wearing a bit from the worn bearing. Would depend on how long it was like that etc. If your backlash is way out of spec then you may need to reshim. Let us know how it goes.

07-10-2016, 08:47 PM	#1
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	VN1500 Nomad transmission noise Hello all! Introducing myself here and making a request for help. I am looking forward to picking your brains and maybe making a contribution or two where I can. Have always enjoyed forums for all of my vehicles, really good info and camaraderie. Since I got the Nomad a few months ago I noticed an annoying noise when the bike was rolling, it is like what a speedometer cable sounds like when it is going bad. It continues to make the sound when coasting down a hill in neutral with the engine off, also pulling the clutch makes no difference. The other day the noise got considerably worse adding a clunking element. I was hoping that it was a bad universal in the driveshaft, but it isn't. The noise seems to be coming from the transmission. I pulled the clutch cover to see if anything was wonky in there but it all looks good. The sound seems to be originating from just behind the rear cylinder. If anyone can watch a video that I posted on YouTube and identify the noise for me (or at least make a suggestion) I would be exceedingly grateful. I am pretty mechanically inclined having worked on cars and bikes for 40 years, but I am new to this bike and could use a hand diagnosing the problem. In the video I am turning the rear wheel with the bike up on a lift. Here is the link to the video: Thanks! Steve Login or Register to Remove Ads Last edited by MrMoose; 07-10-2016 at 08:50 PM.
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07-10-2016, 09:25 PM	#4
radco Sr. Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Dedham Maine Posts: 4,199	I wonder if that noise can be the universal ! That is one loud clunk. Please post what you find, How many miles on your bike? Oh Yea WELCOME to the group.. A TON of great people her ,sooner or later a gear head will chim in __________________
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07-10-2016, 11:23 PM	#5
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	I hoped it was the universal at first, but it really doesn't seem to be. I listened very carefully near the shaft and I determined that the sound seemed to be coming from more in the center of the transmission. Naturally this has me worried as I am not keen on splitting the case. Don't know but what I might bail on the bike if that were the case. It's got around 28K on it. Thanks! Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

07-11-2016, 02:21 AM	#6
MrMikey Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 403	Damn that sounds terrible, sounds like a bad bearing if it's not the universal joint. Have you got a stethscope or a piece of hose will sometimes work to isolate the sound .........Mike __________________ '09 Voyager
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07-11-2016, 04:17 AM	#7
MAS Tequila Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Psychiatric Ward FL Posts: 3,429	Check the front bevel gear drive. That sounds like one of the bearings is shot and has a lot of play in it. MT __________________ MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936
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07-10-2016, 08:51 PM	#2
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,927	So all you are doing in the video is turning the rear wheel with the bike in neutral ?
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07-10-2016, 08:52 PM	#3
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	That is correct.
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07-11-2016, 05:56 AM	#8
vulcanscott Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: chandler okla Posts: 854	I am with Mas on this one !
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07-11-2016, 08:30 AM	#9
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	Thanks guys for the input. MAS, I will look into that as getting to those bearings is a heck of lot easier than digging into the transmission. I know that sound travels and can be difficult to pinpoint, but by your experience the noise of a bevel gear could 'throw its voice' so it sounds deep in the trans? Looks like I have to do some reading on here about the bevel gear and its bearings. Again, thanks!!
	0

07-13-2016, 09:07 AM	#10
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	Well MAS if I could I would shake your hand. But since we are at opposite North-South ends of the country I can only offer a virtual handshake and this: The problem turned out to be the bearing exactly as you called it. Fortunately I only rode the bike a couple miles after it got this noisy; the gears themselves look fine. Here is a video of what is going on: I'm thinking about taking the assembly to Kawasaki and seeing how much they would charge me to rectify this. Changing the bearing I don't think would be too difficult, but I know the gears have to be re-aligned afterwards and that probably should be left to the pros. Thanks again, and I hope this thread can help others who experience a similar noise.
	0

07-15-2016, 11:15 PM	#11
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	Well the next thing is, I was unaware of the need to loosen the staked nut before taking the case off the bike. Does anyone have a nifty trick to hold the bevel gear to avoid shelling out $80 for a tool I will only use once? I've ordered a bunch of shims to set up the gears and a new bearing, but when the counter guy told me how much the tool was I closed my wallet. The parts I have to have but I would like to avoid buying that shaft tool.
	0

07-22-2016, 12:24 AM	#12
gtxr Jr. Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 11	As long as the pinion bearing is still fine? The one that is not wobbling and goes to the u joint side of the bevel gear set. Then all you have to do is unbolt the pinion side from the case and slide it out of the way to get at the outer crown gear and bearing. Just replace the outer bearing and use the same shims. Cant remember if there is shims on that side or not. But if you just replace the bad bearing and put it back together without changing the pinion/small bearing side. You will not have to re shim anything. However its hard to tell the gear condition? but im going to say that you will probably have a small gear whine after re assembly. Do to the gears wearing a little funny because of the worn bearing. Make any sense to you. Ive done this a few times and no issues. If you do both side and rear bearings in that case you will have to reshim and it is a bit of a tedious procedure.
	0

07-22-2016, 12:27 AM	#13
gtxr Jr. Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 11	As for the staked nut. Pull the outer seal/cap copper coloured cap off of the housing. Then use your driveshaft as a holder to hole the assembly together either on the bike or in a vise. Then a good impact gun will pull the nut off. Hope this helps.
	0

08-08-2016, 10:15 PM	#14
MrMoose Jr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 8	gtxr - thanks for the input, I really appreciate all the advice from those who have been down this road before. I ended up buying the tool for removing the staked nut. Worked like a champ, I'll probably try to find a way to sell it once this is all done. Once I took the nut off I was able to slide the shaft out and the bevel gear came out from under the driven gear. Also got the bearing out (junk), and looks like I will be able to get the new one in without taking the driven gear out, it seems there will be room. Gear condition is great, I only rode it for a couple miles once it started making the ugly noises. If I don't take the driven gear out you say I will be able to use the shim that was under the drive gear? That would be sweet. Kinda makes sense to me, but the Clymer's manual really stresses setting the backlash and aligning the tooth pattern. I wasn't looking forward to that so if I can skip it by putting the thing back the way it came apart I'll be happy. I can put up with a little whine, but one thing is for sure I DO NOT want to have to pull it all apart again!
	0

08-12-2016, 08:15 PM	#15
gtxr Jr. Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 11	Put it all back together and check the backlash. If its withing the manual specs it will be fine. Like i said possible gear whine do to the gears wearing a bit from the worn bearing. Would depend on how long it was like that etc. If your backlash is way out of spec then you may need to reshim. Let us know how it goes.
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