02 Nomad 1500 clutch

WyoRider · 06-29-2014, 06:06 PM

New to the forum here but I was hoping someone could help me out here. I just purchased a 2002 Vulcan Nomad. It only has 5600 miles on it, and has been sitting for about 4 years unused.

So after draining the old fluids, replacing the battery she started up just fine, runs good and sounds great. The only problem is that the hydraulic clutch doesn't seem to be working. After depressing the clutch as soon as I go to shift into 1st the bike jumps and dies as if I wasn't even using the clutch.

I don't know if this is a common problem, or if it's a relatively cheap, easy fix (I would hope so) or if it's going to be an expensive, time consuming ordeal to get it working. It seemed like it was working just fine when it was parked.

This issue may already have been addressed on here, so if it has, or this is the wrong place to post this please redirect me to the correct place.

Thank you! Any advice is appreciated

dshelly · 06-29-2014, 07:16 PM

Bleed the clutch, make sure you get clear fluid at the slave cyl. Then go for a ride. after you get the trans warmed up and fresh oil circulating you should be good to go.

jdslim · 06-29-2014, 07:27 PM

I have not experienced this myself, but have seen others with the problem. Basically the clutch plates are not dis-engaging.

Put the front wheel against a wall and hold the clutch when you shift into gear.

If you have an assistant, tow the bike up the street while grabbing the clutch a few times in gear. I'm sure there are other methods.

WyoRider · 06-29-2014, 09:26 PM

Got the line bled out and nice clear fluid all the way through. Clutch is still not disengaging. Shifted into first and pulled the clutch lever in and rocked the bike for a while back and forth trying to free the clutch up but did no good, even after running it and warming up the oil. I believe from sitting for so many years and not having enough oil on the clutch plates, that they have stuck together. Will look into pulling the clutch and freeing the plates up. With 5600 miles on it, the discs should still be in decent shape.

Silent Sam · 06-30-2014, 03:12 AM

With 5600 miles the clutch plates/disc's, should be like new !
If you dont want to open the clutch..try a half a can of sea foam in with the engine oil...let it run till its cycling the fan..then you are sure the oil is warmed good...I'd keep the tranny in neutral...rev it up to 2-3k rpms a few times while working the clutch lever....I would think that the clutch plates will eventually come loose...it that dont work, you can always open it up !

**ringadingh** · 06-30-2014, 07:04 AM

The plates and discs are most likely stuck together from sitting for so long. If the clutch lever feels ok its probably working. Its a common problem that happens over winter, but usually loosens up after a minute.

VulcanE · 06-30-2014, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdslim

I have not experienced this myself, but have seen others with the problem. Basically the clutch plates are not dis-engaging.

Put the front wheel against a wall and hold the clutch when you shift into gear.

+1 on this, there has been several members that stated after doing this, it worked fine after the discs broke free.
Might also suggest the right thumb being near the kill switch...........just in case.

WyoRider · 06-30-2014, 08:47 PM

Going to try Silent Sam's suggestion before taking it apart. I tried putting it against a wall and shifting into gear, but to no avail. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I can be riding by this weekend.

id-man · 06-30-2014, 11:17 PM

I can tell you that if you need to get to the clutch plates, taking the right side cover off is a lousy job, primarily due to all the stuff you've got to remove before you can get to the 20 odd cover bolts - and putting the cover back on is equally as frustrating, getting the flimsy-as-hell paper gasket to line up without destroying it. When you bled the clutch you accessed the clutch slave cylinder under the LEFT side cover correct? The left is definitely the friendly side. Is there any kind of a push rod on the left side that can release tension on the clutch basket? If you have to end up taking the right side apart you'll need a fresh cover gasket and exhaust crush washer on hand before cracking into it. That's all I know.

Silent Sam · 06-30-2014, 11:57 PM

id-man, bring's up a Good Point...you'll need to remove the Kickstand-side..side cover, and flush the hyd clutch slave cyl and line..(after several years sitting--For Sure)

If you end up cracking the cover on the clutch side...READ the Instructions on this site befor you start...those little "screws" are all differing lengths and must be re installed in the hole they came out of !..then theres the washer on the starter shaft..and the one on the clutch assy...

WyoRider · 07-01-2014, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silent Sam

With 5600 miles the clutch plates/disc's, should be like new !
If you dont want to open the clutch..try a half a can of sea foam in with the engine oil...let it run till its cycling the fan..then you are sure the oil is warmed good...I'd keep the tranny in neutral...rev it up to 2-3k rpms a few times while working the clutch lever....I would think that the clutch plates will eventually come loose...it that dont work, you can always open it up !

Ok if the method above doesn't work it will probably require cracking open the side cover. Hopefully the local Kawasaki dealer will have the cover gasket, and exhaust crush washer on hand.

The hydraulic clutch master cylinder, and line has been bled to where nice clean clear fluid is now coming out. The old fluid was quite nasty. I don't beleive the previous owner ever changed any of the fluids except perhaps during the first service. I still need to do the same for the brake master cyl, and line.

Again thank you for all the advice, I'll keep checking here for more, and keep you fellas updated!

PS What do you guys thing of Marvel Mystery oil vs Seafoam. I've used both and I know MMO was a miracle worker in my old 72 Chevy

**ringadingh** · 07-01-2014, 06:47 AM

Ive used both MMO & Seafoam, while both may be great products I prefer the Seafoam, especially in your present application, I would definitely give it a shot.

davidhollinger · 07-01-2014, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WyoRider

Ok if the method above doesn't work it will probably require cracking open the side cover. Hopefully the local Kawasaki dealer will have the cover gasket, and exhaust crush washer on hand.

The hydraulic clutch master cylinder, and line has been bled to where nice clean clear fluid is now coming out. The old fluid was quite nasty. I don't beleive the previous owner ever changed any of the fluids except perhaps during the first service. I still need to do the same for the brake master cyl, and line.

Again thank you for all the advice, I'll keep checking here for more, and keep you fellas updated!

PS What do you guys thing of Marvel Mystery oil vs Seafoam. I've used both and I know MMO was a miracle worker in my old 72 Chevy

If the dealer is more convenient for you then that's good, but check ebay for parts and be specific. You can save a lot of money on most things for these bikes just by waiting a day or two for shipping. I have the 2002 also. Good luck and I hope you get her rolling soon.

Silent Sam · 07-01-2014, 02:50 PM

..Exhaust Header "Crush Washer's" I'v heard that Harley Washers fit....

On The Other Hand --I'v had mine off several times, and am still using the original ones..at 50,000 miles

WyoRider · 07-01-2014, 08:05 PM

Good News! I tried to Seafoam method working the clutch while letting her warm up. Once the fan kicked on I increased the RPM's and continued working the clutch. After about 10 minutes of this I decided to give it a go. It still bucked when shifting into first even with the clutch depresses and would die. So I decided to keep it in first and let the starter roll me without using the clutch until it was running in 1st. I drove around the block a few times and just as I was about to give up, the clutch started working. So now it shifts, and runs just fine! Rode it into work with no issues. THanks again everyone for the advice!

06-29-2014, 06:06 PM	#1
WyoRider Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Wyoming Posts: 5	02 Nomad 1500 clutch New to the forum here but I was hoping someone could help me out here. I just purchased a 2002 Vulcan Nomad. It only has 5600 miles on it, and has been sitting for about 4 years unused. So after draining the old fluids, replacing the battery she started up just fine, runs good and sounds great. The only problem is that the hydraulic clutch doesn't seem to be working. After depressing the clutch as soon as I go to shift into 1st the bike jumps and dies as if I wasn't even using the clutch. I don't know if this is a common problem, or if it's a relatively cheap, easy fix (I would hope so) or if it's going to be an expensive, time consuming ordeal to get it working. It seemed like it was working just fine when it was parked. This issue may already have been addressed on here, so if it has, or this is the wrong place to post this please redirect me to the correct place. Thank you! Any advice is appreciated Login or Register to Remove Ads
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06-29-2014, 07:16 PM	#2
dshelly Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Belgrade, MT Posts: 2,824	Bleed the clutch, make sure you get clear fluid at the slave cyl. Then go for a ride. after you get the trans warmed up and fresh oil circulating you should be good to go. __________________ Dave "(dshelly)" Shellenberger 2014 Harley Ultra Classic 2007 1600 Nomad (Black) Shellenberger Machine Belgrade, MT Various Bagger Member (Harley Chapter) VBA # 2395
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06-30-2014, 03:12 AM	#5
Silent Sam Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: On The Shakey Side Posts: 2,501	With 5600 miles the clutch plates/disc's, should be like new ! If you dont want to open the clutch..try a half a can of sea foam in with the engine oil...let it run till its cycling the fan..then you are sure the oil is warmed good...I'd keep the tranny in neutral...rev it up to 2-3k rpms a few times while working the clutch lever....I would think that the clutch plates will eventually come loose...it that dont work, you can always open it up ! Login or Register to Remove Ads
	0

06-30-2014, 07:04 AM	#6
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	The plates and discs are most likely stuck together from sitting for so long. If the clutch lever feels ok its probably working. Its a common problem that happens over winter, but usually loosens up after a minute. __________________ 2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951
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06-30-2014, 11:17 PM	#9
id-man Advanced Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts Posts: 822	I can tell you that if you need to get to the clutch plates, taking the right side cover off is a lousy job, primarily due to all the stuff you've got to remove before you can get to the 20 odd cover bolts - and putting the cover back on is equally as frustrating, getting the flimsy-as-hell paper gasket to line up without destroying it. When you bled the clutch you accessed the clutch slave cylinder under the LEFT side cover correct? The left is definitely the friendly side. Is there any kind of a push rod on the left side that can release tension on the clutch basket? If you have to end up taking the right side apart you'll need a fresh cover gasket and exhaust crush washer on hand before cracking into it. That's all I know. __________________ 2004 Nomad 1500FI - weeeeeeeeee!
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06-29-2014, 07:27 PM	#3
jdslim Jr. Member Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 25	I have not experienced this myself, but have seen others with the problem. Basically the clutch plates are not dis-engaging. Put the front wheel against a wall and hold the clutch when you shift into gear. If you have an assistant, tow the bike up the street while grabbing the clutch a few times in gear. I'm sure there are other methods.
	0

06-29-2014, 09:26 PM	#4
WyoRider Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Wyoming Posts: 5	Got the line bled out and nice clear fluid all the way through. Clutch is still not disengaging. Shifted into first and pulled the clutch lever in and rocked the bike for a while back and forth trying to free the clutch up but did no good, even after running it and warming up the oil. I believe from sitting for so many years and not having enough oil on the clutch plates, that they have stuck together. Will look into pulling the clutch and freeing the plates up. With 5600 miles on it, the discs should still be in decent shape.
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06-30-2014, 08:47 PM	#8
WyoRider Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Wyoming Posts: 5	Going to try Silent Sam's suggestion before taking it apart. I tried putting it against a wall and shifting into gear, but to no avail. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I can be riding by this weekend.
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06-30-2014, 11:57 PM	#10
Silent Sam Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: On The Shakey Side Posts: 2,501	id-man, bring's up a Good Point...you'll need to remove the Kickstand-side..side cover, and flush the hyd clutch slave cyl and line..(after several years sitting--For Sure) If you end up cracking the cover on the clutch side...READ the Instructions on this site befor you start...those little "screws" are all differing lengths and must be re installed in the hole they came out of !..then theres the washer on the starter shaft..and the one on the clutch assy...
	0

07-01-2014, 06:47 AM	#12
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	Ive used both MMO & Seafoam, while both may be great products I prefer the Seafoam, especially in your present application, I would definitely give it a shot. __________________ 2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951
	0

07-01-2014, 02:50 PM	#14
Silent Sam Sr. Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: On The Shakey Side Posts: 2,501	..Exhaust Header "Crush Washer's" I'v heard that Harley Washers fit.... On The Other Hand --I'v had mine off several times, and am still using the original ones..at 50,000 miles
	0

07-01-2014, 08:05 PM	#15
WyoRider Jr. Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Wyoming Posts: 5	Good News! I tried to Seafoam method working the clutch while letting her warm up. Once the fan kicked on I increased the RPM's and continued working the clutch. After about 10 minutes of this I decided to give it a go. It still bucked when shifting into first even with the clutch depresses and would die. So I decided to keep it in first and let the starter roll me without using the clutch until it was running in 1st. I drove around the block a few times and just as I was about to give up, the clutch started working. So now it shifts, and runs just fine! Rode it into work with no issues. THanks again everyone for the advice!
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