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08-06-2017, 10:38 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Auburn Al
Posts: 247
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Stem Brn & Park Tool.. Update...
Well looks like I am falling into the bad stem brng group. After getting everything off for the front bearings, I noticed my steering is stiff and I can feel the flat spot/indentation of the head bearings.
Question is, with this Park tool and does it work with the Nomads? I can borrow one from a friend of mine, but I don't know if the tips will grab the races. I assume since a punch will catch the race that this tool should. I saw a post where someone had to bend the ends of the park tool out to a 45 deg angle to make it work. Since to the tool is borrowed I cant do that.. Thoughts....
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Last edited by mr500; 08-08-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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08-06-2017, 01:51 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
Posts: 35,387
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You wont know if it will work unless you try it, I use a long drift punch, and a large flat screwdriver. There is barely an edge to catch, but eventually it starts moving, and gets easier.
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08-07-2017, 07:25 AM | #3 |
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Location: Auburn Al
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Yeah that's what I was worried about. No room to work. Ill give it a shot jus the same
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08-07-2017, 06:45 PM | #4 |
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Here is a link to how I solved the race removal and torquing project.
http://vulcanbagger.com/forums/showt...+stem+bearings Unfortunately the photobucket 3rd party hosting thing is now blocking my pics from being posted. What are others doing to post pics? Otherwise I could e-mail to you if you PM me with an address and I can send a write-up with the pics in it.
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Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad |
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08-08-2017, 12:11 AM | #6 |
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Coming to you. Hope it helps
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Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad |
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08-08-2017, 07:34 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Auburn Al
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Got it and yes I see where you are going with it. I might try grinding in 2-3 grooves so I can get a punch on the backside of the race when I get home today. The RT2 tool I will be using is being borrowed and I don't want to modify it unless I have too.
Thanks So Much. You gave me another way to remove the races. Still have to get me 36mm socket also. UGHH thought I had one. Thanks Again....
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08-08-2017, 06:53 PM | #8 |
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Location: Auburn Al
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Well there out. And just like everyone else I found damn near NO grease on the bearings. Top race was nice and clean but the bottom race was pitted as you can see.
Also what would be the reason for having transmission oil in the left fork and regular fork oil in the right fork?? One was red (tranny fluid) and other was dark grey. Guessing the last guy that had it did not do it right?? Thoughts...
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08-08-2017, 08:11 PM | #9 |
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Marietta, GA
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Wow, it looks like they replaced the bearings but put very little, if any, grease on them. No wonder it got stiff! Is that rust on the lower bearing?
I suppose there may be some red colored fork oils, but it looks like they may have had a leak in one fork and only replaced the oil in that fork. That's certainly a big no-no, especially if not using the exact same brand and weight as was being replaced. |
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08-08-2017, 10:43 PM | #10 |
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Location: Auburn Al
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Are the OEM bearings taper? yeah they may have done just that because the left was deff tranny fluid. Going back with Yama lube. Only thing I have without ordering.
And yes that is rust. May have been a bad seal. Who knows what the original owner did. I got the bike at 19500. She's at 27xxx now. First time I have been in here.
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08-08-2017, 11:16 PM | #11 |
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Marietta, GA
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Other 1600 owners would need to confirm, but I don't think the OEMs were needle. The 1700s, 1500s and, I think, the 900s have really cheap ball bearings in a plastic retainer, so I doubt that Kawi put needle bearings in the 1600s.
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08-08-2017, 11:26 PM | #12 |
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Those are tapered bearings, not needle bearings.
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08-09-2017, 07:26 AM | #13 |
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Location: Auburn Al
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I know these are taper I was asking if the OEM ones are taper from Ma Kawa
Such a fun job lol
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08-09-2017, 02:27 PM | #14 |
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The OEM on mine were taper and I replaced with the All Balls taper bearing kit. The lower bearing, including some rust, and the lower race notching is probably typical. It looks like mine after I pulled it apart. The lower race and bearing is where most of the action is.
2 grooves under the races should be plenty. With the angle on the races you will be using the back end of the small cone-shaped grinding stone so the dremel shank is at about the same angle as the race. Trust me, you don't need much of a groove to get a punch to work.
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Hammer aka CrocHammer KawaNow#00988, VROC#26389, VR#2202 Abbotsford, BC, Canada 2006 Black Nomad |
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08-09-2017, 02:42 PM | #15 |
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Theres alot 2 be said for grinding a couple of reliefs into the neck or the back of the bearing to allow removal.
Also, a zerk in the neck, pack the neck full, after new bearing install, and just 1 shot of grease from grease gun yearly will go along way to making those steering bearings live..... I have zerks on my neck, and swingarm....
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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